2011 YAMAHA YZ450F length

3-1
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
REGULAR INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENTS
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
• The following schedule is intended as a general guide to maintenance and lubrication. Bear in mind that such factors as
weather, terrain, geographical location, and individual usage will alter the required maintenance and lubrication intervals.
If you are a doubt as to what intervals to follow in maintaining and lubricating your machine, consult your Yamaha dealer.
• Periodic inspection is essential in making full use of the machine performance. The service life of the parts varies sub-
stantially according to the environment in which the machine runs (e.g., rain, dirt, etc.). Therefore, earlier inspection is
required by reference to the list below..
ItemAfter
break-
inEvery
race
(about
2.5
hours)
Every
third
(about
7.5
hours)Every
fifth
(about
12.5
hours)
As re-
quiredRemarks
ENGINE OIL
Replace●●
VALVES
Check the valve clearances●●The engine must be cold.
Inspect●Check the valve seats and valve
stems for wear.
Replace●
VALVE SPRINGS
Inspect●Check the free length and the tilt.
Replace●
VALVE LIFTERS
Inspect●Check for scratches and wear.
Replace●
CAMSHAFTS Inspect the camshaft surface.
Inspect●Inspect the decompression system.
Replace●
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
Inspect●Check for wear on the teeth and for
damage.
Replace●
PISTON
Inspect●Inspect crack.
Clean●Inspect carbon deposits and eliminate
them.
Replace●●Replace the piston, piston pin, piston
pin clip, and piston ring all as a set.
PISTON RING
Inspect●Check ring end gap.
Replace●●Replace the piston, piston pin, piston
pin clip, and piston ring all as a set.
PISTON PIN
Inspect●
Replace●●Replace the piston, piston pin, piston
pin clip, and piston ring all as a set.
3

3-17
CHASSIS
a. Lower level
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Sprocket teeth "a"
Excessive wear→Replace.
Replace the drive sprocket, rear
wheel sprocket and drive chain as a
set.
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3". Drive chain length (15
links):
: 242.9 mm
(9.563 in)
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
50–60 mm (2.0–2.4 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.

3-19
CHASSIS
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Measure:
• Spring fitting length
• The I.D. mark "a" is marked at the
end of the spring.
• Spring specification varies accord-
ing to the difference in the produc-
tion lot.
3. Adjust:
• Spring preload
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Loosen the adjuster "2" until there
is some clearance between the
spring and adjuster.
c. Measure the spring free length
"a".
d. Turn the adjuster "2".
• Be sure to remove all dirt and mud
from around the locknut and adjust-
er before adjustment.
• The length of the spring (installed)
changes 1.5 mm (0.06 in) per turn
of the adjuster.
Never attempt to turn the adjuster
beyond the maximum or minimum
setting.
e. Tighten the locknut.
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
13 clicks out
* 12 clicks out
* Except for USA and CDN
Standard fitting length:
I.D. MARK/
Q'TYLength
White/1 252 mm
(9.92 in)
*253 mm
(9.96 in)
* Except for USA and CDN
Stiffer →Increase the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2" in.)
Softer→Decrease the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2"
out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Position in
which the
spring is turned
in 18 mm (0.71
in) from its free
length.Position in
which the
spring is turned
in 1.5 mm (0.06
in) from its free
length.
Locknut:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)

4-12
CAMSHAFTS
REMOVING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
• Crankshaft end accessing screw
"2"
2. Align:
• Alignment mark
Checking steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
b. Align the alignment mark "a" on
the rotor with the alignment mark
"b" on the crankcase cover.
Make sure that the alignment mark
"c" on the exhaust camshaft sprocket
and the alignment mark "d" on the in-
take camshaft sprocket are aligned
with the edge of the cylinder head.
3. Remove:
• Timing chain tensioner cap bolt
"1"
• Timing chain tensioner "2"
• Gasket4. Remove:
• Bolt (camshaft cap) "1"
• Camshaft cap "2"
• Clip
Remove the bolts (camshaft cap) in a
crisscross pattern, working from the
outside in.
The bolts (camshaft cap) must be
removed evenly to prevent dam-
age to the cylinder head, cam-
shafts or camshaft caps.
5. Remove:
• Exhaust camshaft "1"
• Intake camshaft "2"
Attach a wire "3" to the timing chain to
prevent it from falling into the crank-
case.
CHECKING THE CAMSHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Cam lobe
Pitting/scratches/blue discolor-
ation → Replace.
2. Measure:
• Cam lobe length "a" and "b"
Out of specification → Replace.3. Measure:
• Runout (camshaft)
Out of specification → Replace.
Cam lobes length:
Intake "a":
37.750–37.850 mm
(1.4862–1.4902 in)
:
37.650 mm (1.4823 in)
Intake "b":
28.129–28.229 mm
(1.1072–1.1114 in)
:
28.029 mm (1.1035 in)
Exhaust "a":
33.540–33.640 mm
(1.3205–1.3244 in)
:
33.440 mm (1.3165 in)
Exhaust "b":
24.769–24.869 mm
(0.9752–0.9791 in)
:
24.669 mm (0.9712 in)
Runout (camshaft):
Less than 0.03 mm
(0.0012 in)

4-22
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
h. Press the valve through the valve guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:• Valve spring free length "a"Out of specification → Replace.
2. Measure: • Compressed spring force "a"Out of specification → Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"Out of specification → Replace. CHECKING THE
VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect: • Valve lifterScratches/damage →Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply: • Molybdenum disulfide oilOnto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install: • Valves "1"
• Valve spring seats "2"
• Valve stem seals "3"
• Valve springs "4"
• Valve spring retainers "5"
• Install the valve "a" with the identifi-
cation 33DI on the intake side and
the valve "b" with the identification
33DE on the exhaust side.
• Install the valve springs with the larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch 3. Install:
• Valve cotters
Install the valve cotters by compress-
ing the valve spring with the valve
spring compressor "1" and the valve
spring compressor attachment "2".
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring): Intake:40.76 mm (1.60 in)
: 39.76 mm
(1.57 in)
Exhaust:
37.01 mm (1.46 in)
: 36.01 mm
(1.42 in)
Compressed spring
force: Intake:178–204 N at 34.78
mm (18.2–20.8 kg at
34.78 mm,
40.01–45.86 lb at 1.37
in)
Exhaust: 124–142 N at 30.83
mm (12.6–14.5 kg at
30.83 mm,
27.88–31.92 lb at 1.21
in)
Spring tilt limit: Intake:2.5°/1.8 mm (0.070 in)
Exhaust: 2.5°/1.6 mm (0.062 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor: YM-04019/90890-04019
Valve spring compressor
attachment: YM-04108/90890-04108

4-29
CLUTCH
REMOVING THE CLUTCH BOSS
1. Remove:
•Nut "1"
• Conical washer "2"
• Clutch boss "3"
Use the clutch holding tool "4" to hold
the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
CHECKING THE CLUTCH
HOUSING AND BOSS
1. Inspect:
• Clutch housing "1"
Cracks/wear/damage→Replace.
• Clutch boss "2"
Scoring/wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVEN
GEAR
1. Check:
• Circumferential play
Free play exists→Replace.
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CLUTCH
SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Clutch spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace
springs as a set.
CHECKING THE FRICTION
PLATES
1. Measure:
• Friction plate thickness
Out of specification→Replace
friction plate as a set.
Measure at all four points.
CHECKING THE CLUTCH PLATES
1. Measure:
• Clutch plate warpage
Out of specification→Replace
clutch plate as a set.
Use a surface plate "1" and thick-
ness gauge "2".CHECKING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Push lever shaft "1"
Wear/damage → Replace.
CHECKING THE PUSH ROD
1. Inspect:
• Push rod 1 "1"
• Bearing "2"
• Washer "3"
• Push rod 2 "4"
•Ball "5"
Wear/damage/bend→Replace.
INSTALLING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Install:
• Push lever shaft "1"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• Apply the engine oil on the push le-
ver shaft.
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Clutch spring free
length:
50.0 mm (1.97 in)
: 49.0 mm (1.93
in)
Friction plate thickness:
2.92–3.08 mm
(0.115–0.121 in)
: 2.8 mm (0.110
in)
Warp limit:
0.1 mm (0.004 in)

5-19
FRONT FORK
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.
CHECKING THE BASE VALVE
1. Inspect:
• Base valve "1"
Wear/damage →Replace.
Contamination →Clean.
• O-ring "2"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• Piston metal "3"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• Spring "4"
Damage/fatigue →Replace base
valve.
• Air bleed screw "5"
Wear/damage →Replace.
CHECKING THE COLLAR
1. Inspect:
• Piston metal "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE FORK SPRING
1. Measure:
• Fork spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
CHECKING THE INNER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Inner tube surface "a"
Score marks→Repair or replace.
Use #1,000 grit wet sandpaper.
Damaged oil lock piece→Re-
place.
• Inner tube bends
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
inner tube as this may dangerous-
ly weaken the tube.
CHECKING THE OUTER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Outer tube "1"
Score marks/wear/damage→Re-
place.CHECKING THE ADJUSTER
1. Inspect:
•Adjuster "1"
• O-ring "2"
Wear/damage→Replace.
ASSEMBLING THE FRONT FORK
1. Wash the all parts in a clean sol-
vent.
2. Stretch the damper assembly ful-
ly.
3. Fill:
• Front fork oil "1"
To damper assembly.
• Be sure to use recommended
fork oil. If other oils are used,
they may have an excessively ad-
verse effect on the front fork per-
formance.
• Never allow foreign materials to
enter the front fork.
4. After filling, pump the damper as-
sembly "1" slowly up and down
(about 200 mm (7.9 in) stroke)
several times to bleed the damper
assembly of air.
Be careful not to excessive full stroke.
A stroke of 200 mm (7.9 in) or more
will cause air to enter. In this case, re-
peat the steps 2 to 4.
Fork spring free length:
470 mm (18.5 in)
: 465 mm (18.3
in)
Inner tube bending limit:
0.2 mm (0.008 in)
Recommended oil:
Suspension oil "S1"
Oil capacity:
197 cm
3 (6.93 Imp oz,
6.66 US oz)

5-39
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
2. Install:
• Stopper ring (upper bearing) "1"
After installing the stopper ring, push
back the bearing until it contacts the
stopper ring.
3. Install:
• Lower bearing "1"
Install the bearing by pressing it on
the side having the manufacture's
marks or numbers.
INSTALLING THE SPRING (REAR
SHOCK ABSORBER)
1. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Upper spring guide "2"
• Lower spring guide "3"
2. Tighten:
•Adjuster "1"3. Adjust:
• Spring length (installed)
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
SPRING PRELOAD" section in
the CHAPTER 3.
4. Tighten:
• Locknut "1"
INSTALLING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Install:
• Dust seal "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Collar "3"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the dust seal lips and col-
lars.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-rings.
2. Install:
• Bushing "1"
• Collar "2"
• Dust seal "3"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the bearing and dust seal
lips.
• Install the dust seals with their lips
facing inward.
3. Install:
• Rear shock absorber4. Install:
• Bolt (rear shock absorber-frame)
"1"
• Washer "2"
• Nut (rear shock absorber-frame)
"3"
Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the bolt.
5. Install:
• Bolt (rear shock absorber-relay
arm) "1"
• Nut (rear shock absorber-relay
arm) "2"
Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the bolt.
Installed depth of the
bearing "a":
4 mm (0.16 in)
Nut (rear shock absorb-
er-frame):
56 Nm (5.6 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Nut (rear shock absorb-
er-relay arm):
53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38
ft•lb)