2010 YAMAHA YZ250F tow

1-12
CONTROL FUNCTIONS
CONTROL FUNCTIONS
ENGINE STOP SWITCH
The engine stop switch "1" is located
on the left handlebar. Continue push-
ing the engine stop switch till the en-
gine comes to a stop.
CLUTCH LEVER
The clutch lever "1" is located on the
left handlebar; it disengages or en-
gages the clutch. Pull the clutch lever
to the handlebar to disengage the
clutch, and release the lever to en-
gage the clutch. The lever should be
pulled rapidly and released slowly for
smooth starts.
SHIFT PEDAL
The gear ratios of the constant-mesh
5 speed transmission are ideally
spaced. The gears can be shifted by
using the shift pedal "1" on the left
side of the engine.
KICKSTARTER CRANK
Rotate the kickstarter crank "1" away
from the engine. Push the starter
down lightly with your foot until the
gears engage, then kick smoothly
and forcefully to start the engine. This
model has a primary kickstarter crank
so the engine can be started in any
gear if the clutch is disengaged. In
normal practices, however, shift to
neutral before starting. THROTTLE GRIP
The throttle grip "1" is located on the
right handlebar; it accelerates or de-
celerates the engine. For accelera-
tion, turn the grip
toward you; for
deceleration, turn it away from you.
FRONT BRAKE LEVER
The front brake lever "1" is located on
the right handlebar. Pull it toward the
handlebar to activate the front brake.
REAR BRAKE PEDAL
The rear brake pedal "1" is located on
the right side of the machine. Press
down on the brake pedal to activate
the rear brake. FUEL COCK
The fuel cock supplies fuel from the
tank to carburetor and also filters the
fuel. The fuel cock has the two posi-
tions:
OFF:
With the lever in this position, fuel will
not flow. Always return the lever to
this position when the engine is not
running.
ON:
With the lever in this position, fuel
flows to the carburetor. Normal riding
is done with the lever in this position.
COLD STARTER KNOB
When cold, the engine requires a
richer air-fuel mixture for starting. A
separate starter circuit, which is con-
trolled by the cold starter knob "1",
supplies this mixture. Pull the cold
starter knob out to open the circuit for
starting. When the engine has
warmed up, push it in to close the cir-
cuit.
HOT STARTER LEVER
The hot starter lever "1" is used when
starting a warm engine. Use the hot
starter lever when starting the engine
again immediately after it was
stopped (the engine is still warm).
Pulling the hot starter lever injects
secondary air to thin the air-fuel mix-
ture temporarily, allowing the engine
to be started more easily.

1-16
CLEANING AND STORAGE
CLEANING AND STORAGE
CLEANING
Frequent cleaning of your machine
will enhance its appearance, maintain
good overall performance, and ex-
tend the life of many components.
1. Before washing the machine, block off the end of the exhaust
pipe to prevent water from enter-
ing. A plastic bag secured with a
rubber band may be used for this
purpose.
2. If the engine is excessively greasy, apply some degreaser to
it with a paint brush. Do not apply
degreaser to the chain, sprockets,
or wheel axles.
3. Rinse the dirt and degreaser off with a garden hose; use only
enough pressure to do the job.
Do not use high-pressure washers
or steam-jet cleaners since they
cause water seepage and deterio-
ration seals.
4. After the majority of the dirt has
been hosed off, wash all surfaces
with warm water and a mild deter-
gent. Use an old toothbrush to
clean hard-to-reach places.
5. Rinse the machine off immediate- ly with clean water, and dry all
surfaces with a soft towel or cloth.
6. Immediately after washing, re- move excess water from the
chain with a paper towel and lubri-
cate the chain to prevent rust.
7. Clean the seat with a vinyl uphol-
stery cleaner to keep the cover
pliable and glossy.
8. Automotive wax may be applied
to all painted or chromed surfac-
es. Avoid combination cleaner-
waxes, as they may contain abra-
sives.
9. After completing the above, start the engine and allow it to idle for
several minutes. STORAGE
If your machine is to be stored for 60
days or more, some preventive mea-
sures must be taken to avoid deterio-
ration. After cleaning the machine
thoroughly, prepare it for storage as
follows:
1. Drain the fuel tank, fuel lines, and
the carburetor float bowl.
2. Remove the spark plug, pour a ta-
blespoon of SAE 10W-40 motor
oil in the spark plug hole, and re-
install the plug. With the engine
stop switch pushed in, kick the en-
gine over several times to coat the
cylinder walls with oil.
3. Remove the drive chain, clean it thoroughly with solvent, and lubri-
cate it. Reinstall the chain or store
it in a plastic bag tied to the frame.
4. Lubricate all control cables.
5. Block the frame up to raise the
wheels off the ground.
6. Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe outlet to prevent moisture
from entering.
7. If the machine is to be stored in a humid or salt-air environment,
coat all exposed metal surfaces
with a film of light oil. Do not apply
oil to rubber parts or the seat cov-
er.
Make any necessary repairs before
the machine is stored.

2-21
CABLE ROUTING DIAGRAM
A. Pass the hot starter cable over the radiator mounting boss.
B. Pass the throttle position sensor lead under the hot starter cable.
C. Fasten the throttle position sen- sor lead and the hot starter ca-
ble.
D. Locate the clamp between the hot starter cable protector and
rubber cap.
E. Fasten the neutral switch lead below the oil hose. and pass the
neutral switch lead on the inside
of the oil hose.
F. Pass the neutral switch lead on the inside of the oil hose.
G. Fasten the neutral switch lead, CDI magneto lead, and radiator
breather hose onto the frame.
They should all be clamped
above the engine bracket to the
left of the downtube of the
frame. The clamp ends should
face backward and the rest out-
side of the frame.
H. Pass the clutch cable through the cable guide.
I. Pass the neutral switch lead and
CDI magneto lead behind the
frame.
J. Pass the hot starter cable on the
inside of the cylinder head
breather hose.
K. Fit the coupler projection into the
hole in the cover.
L. Fasten the sub-wire harness on the CDI unit bracket.
M. Fasten the sub-wire harness at the position-taped portion.
N. Pass each lead under the clamp. Locate the CDI magneto
lead on the outside of the igni-
tion coil lead. Locate the throttle
position sensor lead, neutral
switch lead, CDI magneto lead
and ignition coil lead so that they
do not lie one on another.
O. Fasten the sub-wire harness to
the CDI unit bracket with the
clamp ends located under the
bracket.
P. Fasten the neutral switch lead, throttle position sensor lead,
CDI magneto lead and ignition
coil lead. Fasten them around
the periphery of the recess be-
tween the tension pipe and radi-
ator mounting boss on the
frame.
Q. Locate the clamp ends within
the arrowed range. Assure that
the clamp end does not contact
the cylinder head breather hose. R. Pass the radiator breather hose
on the outside of the CDI mag-
neto lead and neutral switch
lead.
S. Fasten the throttle position sen- sor lead and hot starter cable.
Fasten them between the cylin-
der head breather hose and
throttle position sensor tube
clamp. Fasten the clamp with its
ends toward the right-side of the
frame and cut off the other end
with 3 to 5 clamp holes left in it.
T. Locate the radiator breather hose end above the down tube
and between the oil hose and
engine guard.
U. Fasten the neutral switch lead above the oil hose, and pass the
neutral switch lead on the inside
of the oil hose.

3-6
ENGINE
ENGINE
CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove: • Radiator cap
3. Check: • Coolant level "a"Coolant level low →Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en- gine.
2. Remove: • Coolant drain bolt "1"
3. Remove: • Radiator capDrain the coolant completely.
4. Clean:
• Cooling systemThoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
5. Install: • Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
6. Fill: • Radiator
•EngineTo specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im- purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed. Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
7. Install:• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
8. Check:
• Coolant levelCoolant level low →Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect: • Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"Crack/damage →Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3" →Clean or
replace.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach: • Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-er "2"
Apply water on the radiator cap seal.
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant: High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti -corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio: 50%/50%
Coolant capacity: 1.00 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06
US qt)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-01/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter: YU-33984/90890-01352

4-4
EXHAUST PIPE AND SILENCER
CHECKING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:• Gasket "1"
Damage →Replace.
CHANGING THE SILENCER FIBER
1. Remove: • Rivet (front) "1"
• Inner pipe "2"
Take care not to damage the rivet
fitting holes (ø4. 9 mm) "a" in re-
moval.
Pull out the inner pipe while lightly
tapping the stay "b" on the silencer
using a soft hammer.
2. Replace: • Fiber "1"
3. Install: • Inner pipe "1"
• Rivet (front) "2"
• Apply heat resistant sealant along the plate edge "a" on the inside of
the silencer and also along the si-
lencer edge "b" as shown.
• Take care not to allow the fiber out of place when installing the inner
pipe.
INSTALLING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Install:
• Gasket
• Exhaust pipe "1"
• Nut (exhaust pipe) "2"
First temporarily tighten both nuts to
13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4 ft•lb). Then re-
tighten the same nut to 20 Nm (2.0
m•kg, 14 ft•lb).
2. Install:• Silencer clamp "1"
• Gasket "2"
• Silencer "3"
• Washer "4"
• Bolt (silencer) "5"
• Install the gasket with its meshed area "a" toward the exhaust pipe
side.
• The gasket should be installed ac- cording to the dimension shown.
Nut (exhaust pipe): 20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Silencer clamp: 14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Bolt (silencer): 30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
New

4-6
RADIATOR
HANDLING NOTE
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine and radiator are
hot. Scalding hot fluid and steam
may be blown out under pressure,
which could cause serious injury.
When the engine has cooled, open
the radiator cap by the following
procedure:
Place a thick rag, like a towel, over
the radiator cap, slowly rotate the
cap counterclockwise to the de-
tent. This procedure allows any re-
sidual pressure to escape. When
the hissing sound has stopped,
press down on the cap while turn-
ing counterclockwise and remove
it.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR
1. Inspect:• Radiator core "1"
Obstruction →Blow out with com-
pressed air through rear of the ra-
diator.
Bent fin →Repair/replace.
INSTALLING THE RADIATOR
1. Install: • O-ring "1"
• Radiator pipe 1 "2"
• Bolt (radiator pipe) "3"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
2. Install:• Radiator breather hose "1"
• Radiator hose 2 "2"
• Radiator hose 4 "3"
• Pipe "4"
• Radiator hose 5 "5"
• Radiator hose 3 "6"To right radiator "7".
3. Install: • Right radiator "1"
• Bolt (right radiator) "2"
• Radiator hose 5 "3"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
4. Install: • Left radiator "1"
• Bolt (left radiator) "2"
• Radiator hose 1 "3"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
5. Tighten:
• Radiator hose clamp "4" 6. Install:
• Radiator guard "1"
First fit the inner hook portion "a" and
then the outer one "b" onto the radia-
tor.
Bolt (radiator pipe):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (right radiator):10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (left radiator): 10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 1: 2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose clamp: 2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)

4-48
KICK SHAFT AND SHIFT SHAFT
4. Install:• Kick shaft assembly "1"
• Washer "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide grease on the contacting surfaces
of the kick shaft stopper "a" and kick
shaft ratchet wheel guide "3".
• Apply the engine oil on the kick
shaft.
• Slide the kick shaft assembly into the crankcase and make sure the
kick shaft stopper "a" fits into the
kick shaft ratchet wheel guide.
5. Hook:
• Torsion spring "1"
Turn the torsion spring clockwise and
hook into the proper hole "a" in the
crankcase.
INSTALLING THE KICK IDLE
GEAR
1. Install:• Kick idle gear "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
• Apply the engine oil on the kick idle gear inner circumference.
• Install the kick idle gear with its de-
pressed side "a " toward you.

7-6
CHASSIS
CHASSIS
SELECTION OF THE SECONDARY
REDUCTION RATIO (SPROCKET)
ondary gear reduction ratio>
• It is generally said that the second-ary gear ratio should be reduced for
a longer straight portion of a speed
course and should be increased for
a course with many corners. Actual-
ly, however, as the speed depends
on the ground condition of the day
of the race, be sure to run through
the circuit to set the machine suit-
able for the entire course.
• In actuality, it is very difficult to
achieve settings suitable for the en-
tire course and some settings may
be sacrificed. Thus, the settings
should be matched to the portion of
the course that has the greatest ef-
fect on the race result. In such a
case, run through the entire course
while making notes of lap times to
find the best balance; then, deter-
mine the secondary reduction ratio.
• If a course has a long straight por-
tion where a machine can run at
maximum speed, the machine is
generally set such that it can devel-
op its maximum revolutions toward
the end of the straight line, with care
taken to avoid the engine over-rev-
ving.
Riding technique varies from rider to
rider and the performance of a ma-
chine also vary fr om machine to ma-
chine. Therefore, do not imitate other
rider's settings from the beginning but
choose your own setting according to
the level of your riding technique.
DRIVE AND REAR WHEEL
SPROCKETS SETTING PARTS
TIRE PRESSURE
Tire pressure should be adjust to suit
the road surface condition of the cir-
cuit.
• Under a rainy, muddy, sandy, or slippery condition, the tire pressure
should be lower for a larger area of
contact with the road surface.
• Under a stony or hard road condi- tion, the tire pressure should be
higher to prevent a flat tire. FRONT FORK SETTING
The front fork setting should be made
depending on the rider's feeling of an
actual run and the circuit conditions.
The front fork setting includes the fol-
lowing three factors:
1. Setting of air spring characteris-
tics
• Change the fork oil amount.
2. Setting of spring preload
• Change the spring.
3. Setting of damping force • Change the compression damp-
ing.
• Change the rebound damping. The spring acts on the load and
the damping force acts on the
cushion travel speed.
CHANGE IN AMOUNT AND
CHARACTERISTICS OF FORK OIL
Damping characteristic near the final
stroke can be changed by changing
the fork oil amount.
Adjust the oil amount in 5 cm3 (0.2
Imp oz, 0.2 US oz) increments or
decrements. Too small oil amount
causes the front fork to produce a
noise at full rebound or the rider to
feel some pressure on his hands
or body. Alternatively, too large oil
amount will cause the air spring
characteristics to have a tendency
to be stiffer with the consequent
deteriorated performance and
characteristics. Therefore, adjust
the front fork within the specified
range.
Secondary reduction ratio = Number of rear wheel sprocket
teeth/Number of drive sprocket
teeth
Standard secondary
reduction ratio 49/13
(3.769)
* 51/13
(3.923)
* Except for USA and CDN
Part name Size Part number
Drive
sprocket "1" (STD) 13T 9383B-13218
Rear wheel
sprocket "2" 47T 17D-25447-50
48T 17D-25448-50
(STD) 49T 17D-25449-50 50T 17D-25450-50
* (STD) 51T 17D-25451-50
52T 17D-25452-50
* Except for USA and CDN
Standard tire pressure:100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm
2,
15 psi)
Extent of adjustment: 60–80 kPa (0.6–0.8 kgf/
cm
2, 9.0–12 psi)
Extent of adjustment: 100–120 kPa (1.0–1.2
kgf/cm
2, 15–18 psi)
Standard oil amount:
350 cm3 (12.3 Imp oz,
11.8 US oz)
* 337 cm
3 (11.9 Imp oz,
11.4 US oz)
Extent of adjustment: 300–375 cm
3(10.6–13.2
Imp oz, 10.1–12.7 US
oz)
* Except for USA and CDN