2010 YAMAHA YZ125LC check engine light

1-5
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
• The machine you have purchased may differ slightly from those shown in the following.
• Designs and specifications are subject to change without notice.
1. Clutch lever
2. Engine stop switch
3. Front brake lever
4. Throttle grip
5. Radiator cap
6. Fuel tank cap
7. Kickstarter crank
8. Fuel tank
9. Radiator
10. Coolant drain bolt
11. Check bolt (Transmission oil level)
12. Rear brake pedal
13. Valve joint14. Fuel cock
15. Air filter
16. Drive chain
17. Shift pedal
18. Starter knob
19. Front fork

1-12
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
FUEL
Mix oil with the gas at the ratio speci-
fied below. Always use fresh, name-
brand gasoline, and mix the oil and gas
the day of the race. Do not use premix
that is more than a few hours old.
If knocking or pinging occurs, use a
different brand of gasoline or higher
octane grade.
Never mix two types of oil in the
same batch; clotting of the oil
could result. If you wish to change
oil types, be sure to drain the fuel
tank and the carburetor float bowl
of old premix prior to filling with
the new type.
HANDLING NOTE
Before starting the machine, per-
form the checks in the pre-opera-
tion check list.
Never start or run the engine in a
closed area. The exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they can cause loss of
consciousness and death in a very
short time. Always operate the ma-
chine in a well-ventilated area.
AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE
According to "CLEANING THE AIR
FILTER ELEMENT" section in the
CHAPTER 3, apply the foam-air-filter
oil or its equivalent to the element.
(Excess oil in the element may ad-
versely affect engine starting.)
STARTING A COLD ENGINE
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel cock to "ON" and full
open the starter knob (CHOKE).
3. With the throttle completely
closed start the engine by kicking
the kick starter forcefully with firm
stroke.
4. Run the engine at idle or slightly
higher until it warms up: this usu-
ally takes about one or two min-
utes.
5. The engine is warmed up when it
responds normally to the throttle
with the starter knob (CHOKE)
turned off.
Do not warm up the engine for ex-
tended periods of time.
STARTING A WARM ENGINE
Do not operate the starter knob
(CHOKE). Open the throttle slightly
and start the engine by kicking the
kick starter forcefully with firm stroke.
Observe the following break-in
procedures during initial operation
to ensure optimum performance
and avoid engine damage.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURES
1. Before starting the engine, fill the
fuel tank with a break-in oil-fuel
mixture as follows.
2. Perform the pre-operation checks
on the machine.
3. Start and warm up the engine.
Check the idle speed, and check
the operation of the controls and
the "ENGINE STOP" button.
4. Operate the machine in the lower
gears at moderate throttle open-
ings for five to eight minutes. Stop
and check the spark plug condi-
tion; it will show a rich condition
during break-in.5. Allow the engine to cool. Restart
the engine and operate the ma-
chine as in the step above for five
minutes. Then, very briefly shift to
the higher gears and check full-
throttle response. Stop and check
the spark plug.
6. After again allowing the engine to
cool, restart and run the machine
for five more minutes. Full throttle
and the higher gears may be
used, but sustained full-throttle
operation should be avoided.
Check the spark plug condition.
7. Allow the engine to cool, remove
the top end, and inspect the pis-
ton and cylinder. Remove any
high spots on the piston with #600
grit wet sandpaper. Clean all
components and carefully reas-
semble the top end.
8. Drain the break-in oil-fuel mixture
from the fuel tank and refill with
the specified mix.
9. Restart the engine and check the
operation of the machine through-
out its entire operating range.
Stop and check the spark plug
condition. Restart the machine
and operate it for about 10 to 15
more minutes. The machine will
now be ready to race.
• After the break-in or before each
race, you must check the entire
machine for loose fittings and
fasteners as per "TORQUE-
CHECK POINTS". Tighten all
such fasteners as required.
• When any of the following parts
have been replaced, they must
be broken in.
CYLINDER AND CRANKSHAFT:
About one hour of break-in oper-
ation is necessary.
PISTON, RING AND GEARS:
These parts require about 30
minutes of break-in operation at
half-throttle or less. Observe the
condition of the engine carefully
during operation.
Recommended fuel:
Premium unleaded
gasoline only with a re-
search octane number
of 95 or higher.
Fuel tank capacity:
8.0 L (1.76 Imp gal, 2.11
US gal)
Mixing oil:
Recommended oil:
Yamalube "2-R"
(Yamalube racing 2-
cycle oil)
Mixing ratio: 30:1
If unavailable, use an
equivalent type of oil.
Mixing oil:
Yamalube "2-R"
Mixing ratio:
15:1

3-9
CHASSIS
c. Inspect the gasket (oil check bolt),
replace if damaged.
d. Tighten the oil check bolt.
CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL
1. Start the engine and warm it up
for several minutes and wait for
five minute.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it on upright posi-
tion by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.
3. Place a suitable container under
the engine.
4. Remove:
• Oil drain bolt "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
Drain the transmission oil.
5. Install:
• Aluminum washer
• Oil drain bolt "1"6. Fill:
• Transmission oil
7. Check:
• Oil leakage
8. Check:
• Transmission oil level
9. Install:
• Oil filler cap "2"
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot air screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
a. Screw in the pilot air screw until it
is lightly seated.
b. Back out by the specified number
of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "2"
until the engine runs at the lowest
possible speed.
c. Tighten the locknut.
CHECKING THE EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
Install the O-rings with their de-
pressed "a" facing outward.
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
• Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1". Oil check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil drain bolt:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA
Oil capacity (periodic oil
change):
0.66 L (0.58 Imp qt, 0.69
US qt)
Pilot air screw:
2-1/4 turns out
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" in.
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" out.

3-19
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to
light tan color.
Distinctly different color→Check
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness
gauge.
Out of specification→Regap.
4. Clean the plug with a spark plug
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
•Fuel tank
Refer to "SEAT, FUEL TANK
AND SIDE COVERS" section in
the CHAPTER 4.
• Spark plug
• Crankcase cover (left)
2. Attach:
• Dial gauge "1"
• Spark plug hole dial stand "2"
3. Rotate the magneto rotor "1" until
the piston reaches top dead cen-
ter (TDC). When this happens,
the needle on the dial gauge will
stop and reverse directions even
though the rotor is being turned in
the same direction.
4. Set the dial gauge to zero at TDC.
5. From TDC, rotate the rotor clock-
wise until the dial gauge indicates
that the piston is at a specified
distance from TDC.
6. Check:
• Ignition timing
Punch mark "a" on rotor should be
aligned with punch mark "b" on
stator.
Not aligned→Adjust.7. Adjust:
• Ignition timing
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the screws (stator) "1".
b. Align the punch mark on the rotor
with punch mark on the stator "2"
by moving the stator.
c. Tighten the screws (stator).
Spark plug gap:
0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–
0.028 in)
Standard spark plug:
BR9EVX/NGK (resistance type)
Spark plug:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Dial gauge:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Spark plug hole dial
stand:
YU-1256
Ignition timing (B.T.D.C.):
0.48 mm (0.019 in)
Screw (stator):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-1362-A/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252

7-5
ENGINE
This should be taken simply for an example. It is necessary to set the carburetor while checking the operating conditions
of the engine and discoloration of spark plugs. Normally, carburetor setting is made by means of the main jet, jet needle
clip position (including one with 0.5 difference), pilot jet and pilot air screw. If the result of setting is still unsatisfactory, it is
advisable to change the diameter of the straight portion the jet needle.
At full throttle
Stop of speed pick-up
Slow speed pick-up
Slow response
Sooty spark plug
↓
Rich mixtureDecrease main jet calibration no. (Gradual-
ly)
*In case of racing slight enrichment of mix-
ture reduces engine trouble.Discoloration of spark plug→If tan color, it
is in good condition.
If not effect:
Clogged air filter
Fuel overflow from carburetor
Clogged main air passage or clogged fil-
ter
Lean mixture Lower jet needle clip position. (1 groove
down)
Clip position indicates the position of jet
needle groove, to which the clip is fitted.
The position is numbered from the top.
If a change in the clip position (1 groove) is
effective, try another jet needle that pro-
vides a difference of 0.5 in the clip position. Rich mixture Raise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
1/4–3/4 throttle
*Hard breathing
Lack of speedLower jet needle clip position. (1 groove
down)
1/4–1/2 throttle
Slow speed pick-up
White smoke
Poor accelerationRaise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
0–1/4 throttle
*Hard breathing
Speed downUse jet needle having a smaller diameter. Number of turns-back→Correct properly
Overflow from carburetor
0–1/4 throttle
Poor acceleration
White smokeUse jet needle with a larger diameter.
Unstable at low speeds
Pinking noiseLower jet needle clip position.
(1 groove down)
Turn in pilot air screw.
Poor response at extremely low
speedReduce pilot jet calibration No.
Turn out pilot air screw.
If not effect, reverse the above procedures.Dragging brake
Overflow from carburetor
Poor response in the range of
low to intermediate speedsRaise jet needle clip position.
If no effect, reverse the above procedures.
Poor response when throttle is
opened quicklyCheck overall settings.
Use main jet having lower calibration no.
Raise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
If no effect, reverse the above procedures.Check air filter for fouling.
Poor engine operation Turn in pilot air screw. Check throttle valve operation.
* In case of hard breathing, check the air vent hose for clogging.Symptom Setting Checking
Groove 1
Groove 2
Groove 3
Groove 4
Groove 5Clip
Jet needle
Leaner
(Standard)
Richer

7-6
CHASSIS
CHANGE OF THE HEAT RANGE
OF SPARK PLUGS
Judging from the discoloration of
spark plugs, if they are found improp-
er, it can be corrected by the following
two methods; changing carburetor
settings and changing the heat range
of spark plug.
• In principle, it is advisable to first
use spark plugs of standard heat
range, and judging from the discol-
oration of spark plugs, adjust carbu-
retor settings.
• If the calibration No. of the main jet
must be changed by ±30, it is advis-
able to change the heat range of
spark plugs and newly select the
proper main jet.
• When checking the discoloration of
spark plugs, be sure to stop the en-
gine immediately after a run and
check.
• Avoid racing.
• When changing the heat range of
spark plugs, never attempt to
change it more than ±1 rank.
• When using a spark plug other than
standard, check its heat range
against the standard and check that
it is a resistance type.
• Note that even if the discoloration
seems proper, it may slightly vary
with the spark plug maker and oil in
use.
CHASSIS
SELECTION OF THE SECONDARY
REDUCTION RATIO (SPROCKET) ondary gear reduction ratio>
• It is generally said that the second-
ary gear ratio should be reduced for
a longer straight portion of a speed
course and should be increased for
a course with many corners. Actual-
ly, however, as the speed depends
on the ground condition of the day
of the race, be sure to run through
the circuit to set the machine suit-
able for the entire course.
• In actuality, it is very difficult to
achieve settings suitable for the en-
tire course and some settings may
be sacrificed. Thus, the settings
should be matched to the portion of
the course that has the greatest ef-
fect on the race result. In such a
case, run through the entire course
while making notes of lap times to
find the best balance; then, deter-
mine the secondary reduction ratio.
• If a course has a long straight por-
tion where a machine can run at
maximum speed, the machine is
generally set such that it can devel-
op its maximum revolutions toward
the end of the straight line, with care
taken to avoid the engine over-rev-
ving.
Riding technique varies from rider to
rider and the performance of a ma-
chine also vary from machine to ma-
chine. Therefore, do not imitate other
rider's settings from the beginning but
choose your own setting according to
the level of your riding technique.
DRIVE AND REAR WHEEL
SPROCKETS SETTING PARTSTIRE PRESSURE
Tire pressure should be adjust to suit
the road surface condition of the cir-
cuit.
• Under a rainy, muddy, sandy, or
slippery condition, the tire pressure
should be lower for a larger area of
contact with the road surface.
• Under a stony or hard road condi-
tion, the tire pressure should be
higher to prevent a flat tire.
FRONT FORK SETTING
The front fork setting should be made
depending on the rider's feeling of an
actual run and the circuit conditions.
The front fork setting includes the fol-
lowing three factors:
1. Setting of air spring characteris-
tics
• Change the fork oil amount.
2. Setting of spring preload
• Change the spring.
3. Setting of damping force
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
• Change the rebound damping.
The spring acts on the load and
the damping force acts on the
cushion travel speed.
CHANGE IN AMOUNT AND
CHARACTERISTICS OF FORK OIL
Damping characteristic near the final
stroke can be changed by changing
the fork oil amount. Standard spark
plugBR9EVX/NGK
(resistance
type)
Secondary reduction ratio =
Number of rear wheel sprocket
teeth/Number of drive sprocket
teeth
Standard second-
ary reduction ratio48/13 (3.692)
Part name Size Part number
Drive
sprocket
"1"
(STD) 13T 9383B-13218
Rear wheel
sprocket
"2"
47T 1C3-25447-00
(STD) 48T 1C3-25448-00
49T 1C3-25449-00
50T 1C3-25450-00
51T 1C3-25451-00
52T 1C3-25452-00
Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2,
15 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
60–80 kPa (0.6–0.8 kgf/
cm
2, 9.0–12 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
100–120 kPa (1.0–1.2
kgf/cm
2, 15–18 psi)