2010 GMC SIERRA tow

Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil
on
page 6‑18.
Engine Fan Noise
If the vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If the vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high
outside temperatures, or if you are operating the air
conditioning system, the fans may change to high
speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is
functioning properly. The fans will change to low speed
when additional cooling is no longer required.
Power Steering Fluid
See
Engine Compartment
Overviewon page 6‑16for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering
fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
6-37

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See“Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications
on page 6‑126.
{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a
cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure
to use a scraper or wire brush later,
if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
See Changing a Flat Tire
on page 6‑90.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor
Operation
on page 6‑76. Make sure the spare tire, if your vehicle has one,
is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to
rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the
cable. See
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
on page 6‑106.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which appear
when your tires have only
1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less
of tread remaining. Some
commercial truck tires
may not have treadwear
indicators.
6-82

Tire Chains
{WARNING:
If your vehicle has dual wheels or P265/65R18,
P275/55R20 or LT265/70R17 size tires, do not
use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle
because there is not enough clearance. Tire
chains used on a vehicle without the proper
amount of clearance can cause damage to the
brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The
area damaged by the tire chains could cause you
to lose control of your vehicle and you or others
may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if its
manufacturer recommends it for use on your
vehicle and tire size combination and road
conditions. Follow that manufacturer's
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the
device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not
spin your vehicle's wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install
them on the rear tires.Notice:
If your vehicle does not have dual
wheels and has a tire size other than P265/65R18,
P275/55R20 or LT265/70R17, use tire chains only
where legal and only when you must. Use chains
that are the proper size for your tires. Install them
on the tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on
the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as
possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive
slowly and follow the chain manufacturer's
instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting
your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact
continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast
or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage
your vehicle.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle's tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
6-89

3. Insert the hoist end(open end) (F) of the
extension through the
hole (G) in the rear
bumper.
Do not use the
chiseled end of the
wheel wrench.
Be sure the hoist end of the extension (F) connects
to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the
extension is used to lower the spare tire. 4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn
the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled
out from under the vehicle.
If spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch, if the vehicle has one, may be
engaged causing the tire not to lower. See
Secondary Latch System on page 6‑103.
5. Use the wheel wrench
hook which allows you
to pull the hoist cable
towards you to assist in
reaching the spare tire.
6-95

6. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle with some slackin the cable to access the tire/wheel retainer.
Separate the retainer from the guide pin by
sliding the retainer up the pin while pressing
down on the latch.
Once the retainer is separated from the guide pin,
tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the
wheel along with the cable and guide latch.
7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
6-96

Make sure that the jack head is positioned so that
the rear axle is resting securely between the
grooves that are on the jack head.
{WARNING:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a
vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{WARNING:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly
positioned can damage the vehicle and even
make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal
injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the
jack lift head into the proper location before
raising the vehicle.
6. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the
ground so there is enough room for the spare tire
to fit under the wheel well.
7. Remove all the wheelnuts and take off the
flat tire.
{WARNING:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it
is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after time. The wheel could come off and cause
an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the
rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire
on
page 6‑90
.
6-100

8. Remove any rust or dirtfrom the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces, and
spare wheel.
9. Install the spare tire.
{WARNING:
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because
the nuts might come loose. The vehicle's wheel
could fall off, causing a crash.
10. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.
11. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is
held against the hub.
12. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.
{WARNING:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If all
the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could come
off and cause a crash. If any stud is damaged
because of a loose-running wheel, it could be that
all of the studs are damaged. To be sure, replace
all studs on the wheel. If the stud holes in a wheel
have become larger, the wheel could collapse in
operation. Replace any wheel if its stud holes
have become larger or distorted in any way.
Inspect hubs and hub‐piloted wheels for damage.
Because of loose running wheels, piloting pad
damage may occur and require replacement of
the entire hub, for proper centering of the wheels.
When replacing studs, hubs, wheel nuts or
wheels, be sure to use GM original equipment
parts.
6-101

5. If the spare does not lower, turn the wrenchcounterclockwise until approximately 6 inches
(15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with the backs facing each other.
7. Place the bottom edgeof the jack (A) on the
wheel blocks (B),
separating them so that
the jack is balanced
securely.
8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheelwrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel
blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the
rear bumper.
6-104