
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
•Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
•Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
•Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{WARNING:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{WARNING:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
•Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
•Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
•Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 5-13for information
about driving off-road.
5-28

Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 8-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
•Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 4-3.
•Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{WARNING:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
•Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
•Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
WARNING: (Continued)
WARNING: (Continued)
•
Open a window about 5 cm (two inches) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
•Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
•Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting. See
Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 3-34.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
5-30

Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to
keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5-32.
If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the
vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the
rocking method.
{WARNING:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be injured.
The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels
as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 6-78.
5-31

3. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking brake.
SeeParking Brake on page 3-30.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
{WARNING:
Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the
vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is
in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any
gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure
the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer
case is shifted to N (Neutral).5. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into N (Neutral)” underFour-Wheel Drive on
page 3-25.
6. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF and remove the
key — the front wheels will still turn.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
After towing see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 3-25.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven
for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the
negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the
battery from draining.
5-43

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dolly tow a
four-wheel-drive vehicle from the front:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the front wheels onto the dolly.
3. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a
manual transmission in 1 (First).
4. Turn the engine off and firmly set the parking brake.
SeeParking Brake on page 3-30.
{WARNING:
Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the
vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is
in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any
gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure
the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer
case is shifted to N (Neutral).
5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting
into N (Neutral)” underFour-Wheel Drive on
page 3-25.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 3-25.
If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven
for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the
negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the
battery from draining.
5-45

Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
•Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a
trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps
the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in
D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
If the vehicle has a manual transmission it is better
not to use the highest gear.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•The weight of the trailer
•The weight of the trailer tongue
•The weight on the vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how
much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can depend on any special equipment on
the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
5-49

Driving with a Trailer
{WARNING:
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect
at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
•Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks
and make necessary repairs before starting
a trip.
•Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or
rear-most window open.
•Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
•Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 3-34.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open
road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and
braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now
longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This checks the electrical
connection at the same time.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become
very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed
that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.
5-56

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in
D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If the vehicle has
a manual transmission it is better not to use the
highest gear.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is
turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on
steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to
engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run whileparked, preferably on level ground, with an automatic
transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in
N (Neutral) with the parking brake applied, for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat
warning comes on, seeEngine Overheating on page 6-35.
Parking on Hills
{WARNING:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer
attached can be dangerous. If something goes
wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be
injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a
flat surface.
5-58