Driving Across an Incline
An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a
hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline,
consider the following:
{WARNING:
Driving across an incline that is too steep will
make your vehicle roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt
about the steepness of the incline, do not drive
across it. Find another route instead.
.A hill that can be driven straight up or down
might be too steep to drive across. When going
straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel
base—the distance from the front wheels to the
rear wheels —reduces the likelihood the vehicle
will tumble end over end. But when driving across
an incline, the narrower track width —the distance
between the left and right wheels —might not
prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over.
Driving across an incline puts more weight on the
downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide
or a rollover.
.Surface conditions can be a problem. Loose
gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause
the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle
slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip
it — a rock, a rut, etc. —and roll over.
.Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the
incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with
the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop
into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt
even more.
For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to
drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes
across the incline does not mean you have to drive it.
The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn
downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and
prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this
is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the
surface is like before driving it.
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Stalling on an Incline
{WARNING:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure
you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side,
even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out
on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over,
you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do
not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick,
turning is more difficult, and braking distances
are longer.
It is best to use a low gear when in mud —the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep
the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On
loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand
dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This
affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a
reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt
maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On
wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it
to slide out of control.
{WARNING:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
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Driving in Water
{WARNING:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through
it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe —you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.
If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under
water, you will never be able to start the engine.
When going through water, remember that when the
brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving
in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 6‑25.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired —by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or
by fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
.Drive defensively.
.Do not drink and drive.
.Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
6-24
Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between
the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip.
Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing
rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheStabiliTrak
®Systemon page 6‑6improves the
ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When
driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control
part of the StabiliTrak
®System to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds. The
Antilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 6‑5improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a
slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when
on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur
on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use the Roadside Service
on page 9‑8. To get help
and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
.Turn on the Hazard Warning Flasherson
page 4‑3.
.Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
6-28
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 6‑30.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{WARNING:
If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be injured.
The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
see Tire Chains on page 7‑77.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes
a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does
not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to
be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the
vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed
out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 6‑39.
6-30
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inflate,
thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the
height. See“Weight Distributing Hitches and
Weight Carrying Hitches” underTowing a Trailer
on page 6‑42.
Truck-Camper Loading Information
The vehicle was neither designed nor intended to
carry a slide-in type camper.
Notice :Adding a slide-in camper or similar
equipment to the vehicle can damage it, and
the repairs would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Do not install a slide-in
camper or similar equipment on the vehicle.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/
retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled
vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Service
on
page 9‑8.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle–such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing.
Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with
two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a
device known as a dolly.
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Dinghy Towing and Dolly Towing
All-Wheel Drive Vehicles
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
with any of its wheels on the ground.
The vehicle is not designed to be towed with any of the
wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed, see
“Towing the Vehicle” previously.
6-40
Level Control
Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on light‐duty vehicles and comes as a part of the
Autoride
®suspension, if equipped.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to
maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated
when the ignition key is turned to ON/RUN and will
automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The
system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to
ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off.
You may hear the air compressor operating when the
height is being adjusted.
If a weight‐distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.
Autoride®
With this feature, improved vehicle ride and handling is
provided under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions.
The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel
to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the
vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock
absorber to independently adjust the damping level to
provide the optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride also interacts with the tow/haul mode that,
when activated, will provide additional control of the
shock absorbers. This additional control results in better
ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is
loaded or towing a trailer. See “Tow/Haul Mode”under
Towing a Trailer
on page 6‑42for more information.
6-41