2009 SAAB 9-7X engine

Checking Brake Fluid
Check brake uid by looking at the brake uid reservoir.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12.
The uid level should be
above MIN. If it is not,
have the brake hydraulic
system checked to
see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system,
make sure the level is above the MIN, but not over the
MAX mark.
What to Add
Use only new DOT-3 brake uid from a sealed
container. SeeRecommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 6-12.
Always clean the brake uid reservoir cap and the area
around the cap before removing it. This helps keep
dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of uid in the brake hydraulic
system, the brakes might not work well. This could
cause a crash. Always use the proper brake uid.
Notice:
Using the wrong uid can badly damage brake
hydraulic system parts. For example, just a
few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine
oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage
brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they
will have to be replaced. Do not let someone
put in the wrong kind of uid.
If brake uid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted
surfaces, the paint nish can be damaged. Be
careful not to spill brake uid on the vehicle.
If you do, wash it off immediately. SeeWashing
Your Vehicle on page 5-101.
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Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if
the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle
was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts.
When parts of the braking system are replaced — for
example, when the brake linings wear down and new
ones are installed — be sure to get new approved
replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might
not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake
linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance
between the front and rear brakes can change — for the
worse. The braking performance expected can change in
many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts
are installed.
Battery
This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is
time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one
that has the replacement number shown on the original
battery’s label. SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for battery location.
Warning:Battery posts, terminals, and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Vehicle Storage
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that
can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not
careful. SeeJump Starting on page 5-43for tips
on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery.
This helps keep the battery from running down.
Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle,
remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or
use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the
charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
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Notice:If you leave the radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could be
damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the
warranty. Always turn off the radio and other
accessories when jump starting the vehicle.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped.
Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not
needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save
both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the
positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each
battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump
starting terminal. You should always use this
remote terminal instead of the terminal on the
battery. The remote negative (−) terminal is located
on the front engine lift bracket on vehicles with
the 4.2L L6 engine or the engine accessory drive
bracket for vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8
engines, and is marked GND (Ground). SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on page 5-12for more
information on location.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a ashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not
need to add water to the battery installed in your
new vehicle. But if a battery has ller caps, be
sure the right amount of uid is there. If it is low,
add water to take care of that rst. If you do not,
explosive gas could be present.
Battery uid contains acid that can burn you.
Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in
your eyes or on your skin, ush the place with
water and get medical help immediately.
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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the
vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not
connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a
short that would damage the battery and maybe
other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−)
cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery
because this can cause sparks.6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal of
the dead battery. Use a
remote positive (+)
terminal if the vehicle
has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does
not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to the remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−)
terminal, marked GND, for this purpose.
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The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the
front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and
on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L or
6.0L V8 engines.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to
the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with
the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Always connect
and remove the jumper cables in the correct
order, making sure that the cables do not touch
each other or other metal.
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 4.2L L6 Engine
5.3L V8 Engine shown,
6.0L V8 Engine
similar
Jumper Cable Removal
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Rear Axle
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle uid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A uid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.For all vehicles, excluding vehicles equipped with the
6.0L V8 engine, the proper level is from 0 to 0.40 inch
(0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the ller plug hole,
located on the rear axle.
For vehicles equipped with the 6.0L V8 engine, the
proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to
40 mm) below the bottom of the ller plug hole, located
on the rear axle differential cover.
Add only enough uid to reach the proper level.
What to Use
To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria
Specication):Original equipment tires designed
to GM’s specic tire performance criteria have
a TPC specication code molded onto the sidewall.
GM’s TPC specications meet or exceed all
federal safety guidelines.
(C) DOT (Department of Transportation)
:The Department of Transportation (DOT) code
indicates that the tire is in compliance with the
U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle
Safety Standards.
(D) Tire Identication Number (TIN)
:The letters
and numbers following DOT code are the Tire
Identication Number (TIN). The TIN shows the
manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the
tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both
sides of the tire, although only one side may have
the date of manufacture.
(E) Tire Ply Material
:The type of cord and
number of plies in the sidewall and under the
tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG)
:Tire
manufacturers are required to grade tires based on
three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and
temperature resistance. For more information,
seeUniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-76.(G) Maximum Cold Ination Load Limit
:Maximum load that can be carried and the
maximum pressure needed to support that load.
For information on recommended tire pressure
seeInflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65
andLoading the Vehicle on page 4-21.
Tire Size
The following examples show the different parts of
a tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
:The United States
version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P
as the rst character in the tire size means a
passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards
set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
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To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the
pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure
gage, or a key.
You have two minutes to match the rst tire/wheel
position, and ve minutes overall to match all
four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than
two minutes, to match the rst tire and wheel, or
more than ve minutes to match all four tire and
wheel positions the matching process stops and
you will need to start over.
The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the
engine off.
3. Turn the headlamp control from off to parking lamps
four times within three seconds. A double horn
chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light
will begin to ash. The double horn chirp and
ashing TPMS warning light indicate that the TPMS
matching process has started. The TPMS warning
light should continue ashing throughout the
matching procedure.
4. Start with the driver side front tire.
5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.
Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or
decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds,
then stop and listen for a single horn chirp.The single horn chirp should sound within
15 seconds, conrming that the sensor identication
code has been matched to this tire and wheel
position. If you do not hear the conrming single
horn chirp, you will need to start over with step
number one.
6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the
procedure in Step 5.
9. After hearing the conrming horn chirp for the
driver’s side rear tire, check to see if the TPMS
warning light is still ashing. If yes, turn the ignition
switch to LOCK/OFF to exit the sensor matching
process. If the TPMS warning light is not ashing,
the ve minute time limit has passed and you
will need to start the process over beginning
with Step 1.
10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure
level as indicated on the Tire and Loading
Information label.
11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems
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