2009 PONTIAC G5 engine

Steering
Electric Power Steering
If the engine stalls while driving, the power steering assist
system will continue to operate until you are able to stop
the vehicle. If power steering assist is lost because the
electric power steering system is not functioning, the
vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort.
If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several
times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the
stopped position for an extended amount of time, you
may notice a reduced amount of power steering assist.
The normal amount of power steering assist should return
shortly after a few normal steering movements.
The electric power steering system does not require
regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system
problems and/or the POWER STEERING message
comes on, contact your dealer/retailer for service
repairs. SeeDIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-42.
Steering Tips
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is
banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is
the one factor that can be controlled.If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering
the curve, while the front wheels are straight.
Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate
gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than
braking. For example, you come over a hill and nd a
truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out
from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can
be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But
sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no
room. That is the time for evasive action — steering
around the problem.
The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply the brakes — but, unless the vehicle
has antilock brakes, not enough to lock the wheels. See
Braking on page 4-4. It is better to remove as much
speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the
problem, to the left or right depending on the space
available.
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Before Leaving on a Long Trip
To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having
it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing.
Things to check on your own include:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Reservoir full? Windows
clean — inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:All levels checked?
Lamps:Do they all work and are lenses clean?
Tires:Are treads good? Are tires inated to
recommended pressure?
Weather and Maps:Safe to travel? Have
up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings
while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, nd a
safe place to park your vehicle and rest.
Other driving tips include:
Keep the vehicle well ventilated.
Keep interior temperature cool.
Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead
and to the sides.
Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments
often.
4-17

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
4-18

Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting. See
Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-34.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
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Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about
to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-22.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system
to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use
the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-70.
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Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
transmission or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that a
trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps
the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission
to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted
speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph
(90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow when the outside air temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).
Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
per year.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
Weight on the vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much
the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can
depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the
amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See
“Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for
more information.
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Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Certication label or seeLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-22for more information. Make sure not to go
over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR,
including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle
when the trailer hitch is installed? If so, be sure to
seal the holes when the hitch is removed. If they are
not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the
engine’s exhaust can get into the vehicle. See
Engine Exhaust on page 2-34. Sealing the holes will
also prevent dirt and water from entering the vehicle.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to
help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does the trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and
follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they will be
installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Do not try to
tap into the vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake
systems will not work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road.
Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind
that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as
responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
4-34

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel ash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also ash, telling other drivers the vehicle
is turning, changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel
ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. For this reason you may think other drivers are
seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than
normal engine and transmission temperatures may
result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are
very important to allow the engine and transmission
to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating.
Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to
a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator
is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce
engine load. SeeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
When towing under severe conditions such as hot
ambient temperatures or steep grades, the vehicle may
experience more transmission shifting. A COOLING
MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC. This
alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress
and is aiding engine cooling. SeeDIC Warnings and
Messages on page 3-42DIC Warnings and Messages
for more information.
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