Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering
wheel with one hand. Then, to move
the trailer to the left, move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly
and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns
while trailering could cause
the trailer to come in contact with
the vehicle. The vehicle could
be damaged. Avoid making very
sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make
wider turns than normal. Do this so
the trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a
Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel
ash whenever signaling a turn
or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps also ash, telling
other drivers the vehicle is turning,
changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on
the instrument panel ash for turns
even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. For this reason you may
think other drivers are seeing the
signal when they are not. It is
important to check occasionally to be
sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Because of the added load of the
trailer, the vehicle’s engine may
overheat on hot days, when going
up a long or steep grade with a
trailer. If the engine coolant
temperature gage indicates
overheating, turn off the air
conditioning to reduce engine load,
pull off the road and stop in a
safe spot. Let the engine run while
parked, preferably on level
ground, with the transmission in
P (Park) for a few minutes before
turning the engine off.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower
gearbeforestarting down a long
or steep downgrade. If the
transmission is not shifted down, the
brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down
and reduce the vehicle speed
to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to
reduce the possibility of the engine
and the transmission overheating.
4-30 Driving Your Vehicle
A. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Cooling System on page 5-16.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Cap.
SeeCooling System on
page 5-16.
C. Remote Negative (−) Terminal.
SeeJump Starting on page 5-28.
D.Underhood Fuse Block on
page 5-92.
E. Remote Positive (+) Terminal.
SeeJump Starting on page 5-28.
F.Power Steering Fluid on
page 5-23.
G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When
to Add Engine Oil” underEngine
Oil on page 5-11.
H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
“Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-11.
I. Automatic Transmission Fluid
Dipstick. See “Checking the
Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-16.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir.
See “Brake Fluid” underBrakes
on page 5-25.K.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on
page 5-15.
L. Windshield Washer Fluid
Reservoir. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-24.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the
engine oil every time you get fuel.
In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the
vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle
is a yellow loop. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-10for the location of
the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the
oil several minutes to drain back
into the oil pan. If you do not
do this, the oil dipstick might
not show the actual level.2. Pull out the dipstick and clean
it with a paper towel or cloth,
then push it back in all the way.
Remove it again, keeping the
tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is below the cross-hatched
area at the tip of the dipstick,
add at least one quart/liter of the
recommended oil. This section
explains what kind of oil to use.
For engine oil crankcase capacity,
seeCapacities and Specifications
on page 5-96.
Notice:Do not add too much oil.
If the engine has so much oil
that the oil level gets above the
cross-hatched area that shows
the proper operating range,
the engine could be damaged.
Service and Appearance Care 5-11