2009 CHEVROLET COBALT tires

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red
cloth, and a couple of reective warning triangles. And,
if you will be driving under severe conditions, include
a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-49.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can
be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even if your vehicle has the
Traction Control System (TCS) or Enhanced Traction
System (ETS), slow down and adjust your driving to the
road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want
to turn the TCS or ETS off, such as when driving through
deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds or if your vehicle ever gets stuck
in sand, mud, ice, or snow. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-6,Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on
page 4-9, andIf Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice,
or Snow on page 4-26.
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Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System
(ABS), you want to brake very gently, too. If you do have
ABS, seeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5.
ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a
hard stop on a slippery road. Whether your vehicle
has ABS or not, begin stopping sooner than you would
on dry pavement. Without ABS, if you feel your vehicle
begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake
pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.Remember, unless your vehicle has ABS, if you brake
so hard that the wheels stop rolling, you will just slide.
Brake so the wheels always keep rolling and you can still
steer.
Whatever your vehicle’s braking system, allow
greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you
are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-26.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-72.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction
system. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on
page 4-6,Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-9,
andElectronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-10.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning
the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission
wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting
gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a
rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does
not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to
be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
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The Tire and Loading Information label also shows
the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).
For more information on tires and ination seeTires
on page 5-49andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-56.
There is also important loading information on the
Certication label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see
“Certication Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight
of occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting gure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity.
For example, if the “XXX” amount equals
1400 lbs and there will be ve 150 lb
passengers in your vehicle, the amount of
available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs (1400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5.Determine the combined weight of luggage
and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That
weight may not safely exceed the available
cargo and luggage load capacity calculated
in Step 4.
6.If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your
vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how
this reduces the available cargo and luggage
load capacity of your vehicle.
If your vehicle can tow a trailer, seeTowing a
Trailer (Manual Transmission) on page 4-34
orTowing a Trailer (Automatic Transmission)
on page 4-34for important information on
towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and
trailering tips.
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. If your vehicle is not
equipped as stated above, do not tow a trailer. To identify
the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the
information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in
this section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it
has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
Also, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow
a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do
not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine
and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to
save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow when the outside air temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).
Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
per year.
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Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The total weight on your vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information
or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance
Offices. SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-5
for more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the
vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you
tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW
because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-27for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total
loaded trailer weight (B).
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After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label. SeeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 4-27. Then be sure you do not go over
the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the
trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-36. Dirt and
water can also enter the vehicle.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the
ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you
will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
4-37