
Stalling on an Incline
{CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you,
and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the
door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill
side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in
its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not
get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is
more difficult, and braking distances are longer.It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper
the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.
When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On
loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes,
the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects
steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced
speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle
does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking
can cause it to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on
safe surfaces only.
4-22

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it is
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive
through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before driving through it.
Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get
through. Deep water can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the
tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will
never be able to start the engine. When going through
water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might
take longer to stop. SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet
Roads on page 4-25.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
The vehicle requires more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
4-23

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving on page 4-11for information
about driving off-road.
Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
TheTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6
improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but
slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions.
When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction
control system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower
speeds.
4-27

CAUTION: (Continued)
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-36.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving
about to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-30.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system
to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use
the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-72.
4-29

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not
get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-36.
Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much
weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading
Information label and the Certi cation/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or
either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of the vehicle.
4-30

If you put things inside your vehicle — like
suitcases, tools, packages, or anything
else —they will go as fast as the vehicle goes.
If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a
crash, they will keep going.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or
in a crash.
Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
Never stack heavier things, like
suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some
of them are above the tops of the seats.
Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
There is also important loading information for
off-road driving in this manual. SeeOff-Road
Driving on page 4-11.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be
towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your
dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the
disabled vehicle must be towed. SeeRoadside Service
on page 7-7.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing the vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground
and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
4-36

Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
What is the distance that will be travelled? Some
vehicles have restrictions on how far and how
long they can tow.
Is the proper towing equipment going to be used?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional
for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a
Long Trip on page 4-26.
Dinghy Towing
Notice:If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels
on the ground, the drivetrain components could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground.
The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four
wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed,
see “Dolly Towing” following for more information.
4-37

Dolly Towing
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
with any of its wheels on the ground.
Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) vehicles, can be towed using
a dolly. All-Wheel-Drive (AWD) vehicle, can only be
towed on a at-bed trailer.Use the following procedure to dolly tow a RWD vehicle
from the rear:
1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the
dolly manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Drive the rear wheels onto the dolly.
3. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-32.
4. Put the transmission in P (Park).
5. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for
towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked
into the straight position.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
Level Control
This feature keeps the rear of the vehicle level as the
load changes. The system is automatic and no
adjustments are necessary.
4-38