Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a
good deal longer when towing a trailer, you will need
to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right,
move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly
and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with
the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers.
Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
See your dealer/retailer if you need information.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other
drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the
trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers
behind you are seeing your signal when they are
not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure
the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not
shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If your engine does overheat, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-23.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P).
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer
wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave
After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you
are pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4for more information. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are automatic
transmission uid (do not over ll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it is a good idea to review this information before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-23.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
on page 5-18.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap.Engine Oil on page 5-13.
C. Engine Coolant Surge Tank.Cooling System on
page 5-25.
D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank Protection Cap.Coolant
Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-23.
E. Main Underhood Fuse Block. Contains Remote
Positive (+) Terminal (Under engine cover).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-34.
F. Battery.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.Windshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-29.
H. Engine Oil Dipstick (out of view).Engine Oil on
page 5-13.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic
jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear possible while driving.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you are parked. If the warning
continues, turn off the engine and get everyone out of
the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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Headlamps
To replace one of the headlamp bulbs, use the following
procedure. To replace the parking/turn signal lamp
bulb, seeFront Turn Signal and Parking Lamps
on page 5-43.
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Remove the two screws from the top of the front
fascia and grille. They are inboard of the headlamp
assembly.
3. Remove the three screws retaining the headlamp
assembly.
4. Insert a at blade tool through the opening in the
top. Make sure the tool ts through the opening in
the headlamp bracket lower arm.
5. Push the locking tab toward the rear of the vehicle
with the tool to lift the headlamp bracket lower arm.
6. Pull back on the front fascia and then pull the
headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Another
person might be needed to assist with this step.7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb
assembly.
8. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove
it from the housing.
9. Replace the old bulb with a new one.
10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall.
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