2008 SATURN SKY steering wheel

Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle has the Traction Control System
(TCS), remember: It helps to avoid only the acceleration
skid. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-6.
If you do not have TCS, or if the system is off, then
an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
If your vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC),
the ESC might activate. SeeElectronic Stability Control
(ESC) on page 4-8.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by
shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the
surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding.
Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough
water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a
mirrored surface — and slow down when you have
any doubt.
Even though your vehicle has Electronic Stability
Control (ESC) with Antilock Brake System (ABS),
remember: ABS helps avoid only the braking skid.
If the ABS is ever disabled, in a braking skid, where
the wheels are no longer rolling, release enough
pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again.
This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal
down steadily when you have to stop suddenly.
As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have
steering control.
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Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even if your vehicle has
the Traction Control System (TCS), slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under
certain conditions, you might want to turn the TCS
off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose
gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower
speeds or if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud,
ice, or snow. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on
page 4-6,Electronic Stability Control (ESC) on page 4-8,
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow
on page 4-22, andWinter Tires on page 5-51.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
SeeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4.If the ABS is ever disabled, if you feel your vehicle
begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the
brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction
you can.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear
in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach,
such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-22.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-72.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction
or stability system. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-6andElectronic Stability Control (ESC)
on page 4-8. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual
transmission between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2)
and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the
wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your
vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-28.
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Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough
clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without
the proper amount of clearance can cause
damage to the brakes, suspension, or other
vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire
chains could cause you to lose control of your
vehicle and you or others may be injured in a
crash. Use another type of traction device only
if its manufacturer recommends it for use on
your vehicle and tire size combination and
road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the
device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do
not spin your wheels. If you do nd traction
devices that will t, install them on the
rear tires.
If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a tire sealant and compressor kit.
SeeTire Sealant and Compressor Kit on page 5-74.
There is no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and
no place to store a tire.
It is unusual for a tire to blow out while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. See
Tires on page 5-50. If air goes out of a tire, it is much
more likely to leak out slowly. But, if you should
ever have a blow out, here are a few tips about what to
expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
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A rear blow out, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you
would use in a skid. In any rear blow out, remove your
foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle
under control by steering the way you want the vehicle
to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can
still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road
if possible.
If a tire goes at, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place and stopping.
Then do this:
1. Turn on the hazard warning ashers. SeeHazard
Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
2. Park your vehicle. If your vehicle has an automatic
transmission, set the parking brake rmly and put
the shift lever in PARK (P). SeeShifting Into
PARK (P) (Automatic Transmission) on page 2-25.
If your vehicle has a manual transmission, move
the shift lever to REVERSE (R) and set the parking
brake rmly. SeeParking Your Vehicle (Manual
Transmission) on page 2-27for additional
information.3. Turn off the engine.
4. Inspect the at tire.
If the tire has been separated from the wheel, has
damaged sidewalls, or has a puncture larger than a
14inch (6 mm), the tire is too severely damaged for
the tire sealant and compressor kit to be effective.
SeeRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
If the tire has a puncture less than a
14inch (6 mm)
in the tread area of the tire, seeTire Sealant and
Compressor Kit on page 5-74.
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Fuses Usage
17 Empty
18 Empty
19 Steering Wheel Controls
20 Spare
21 Spare
22 Empty
23 Radio
24 Sensing and Diagnostic Module
25Engine Control Module,
Transmission Control Module
26 Door Locks
27 Interior Lamps
28 Steering Wheel Control Backlighting
29 Power Windows
30 Climate Control System
31 Empty
32 Retained Accessory PowerUnderhood Fuse Block
The underhood fuse block is located in the engine
compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Lift the cover for access to the fuse block.
Notice:Spilling liquid on any electrical components
on your vehicle may damage it. Always keep the
covers on any electrical component.
To remove fuses, use the fuse puller, or hold the end of
the fuse between your thumb and index nger and
pull straight out.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
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Maintenance Footnotes
(a)Visually inspect brake lines and hoses for proper
hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect
disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface
condition. Inspect drum brake linings/shoes for wear or
cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including drums,
wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
(b)Visually inspect front and rear suspension and
steering system for damaged, loose, or missing parts or
signs of wear. Inspect power steering lines and hoses
for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc.
(c)Visually inspect hoses and have them replaced if
they are cracked, swollen, or deteriorated. Inspect
all pipes, fittings, and clamps; replace with genuine parts
as needed. To help ensure proper operation, a pressure
test of the cooling system and pressure cap and cleaning
the outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser
is recommended at least once a year.
(d)Inspect wiper blades for wear, cracking, or
contamination. Clean the windshield and wiper blades,
if contaminated. Replace wiper blades that are worn
or damaged. See Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
on page 5-49andWindshield and Wiper Blades on
page 5-89for more information.(e)Make sure the safety belt reminder light and safety
belt assemblies are working properly. Look for any
other loose or damaged safety belt system parts.
If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system
from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or
frayed safety belts replaced. Also see Checking the
Restraint Systems on page 1-50.
(f)Lubricate all key lock cylinders. Lubricate all hinges
and latches, including those for the body doors, hood,
secondary latch, pivots, spring anchor, release pawl, rear
compartment, glove box door, and console door. More
frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a
corrosive environment. Applying silicone grease on
weatherstrips with a clean cloth will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak.
(g)Visually inspect belt for fraying, excessive cracks, or
obvious damage. Replace belt if necessary.
(h)If you drive regularly under dusty conditions, inspect
the filter at each engine oil change.
(i)Drain, flush, and refill cooling system. This service
can be complex; you should have your dealer/retailer
perform this service. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24
for what to use. Inspect hoses. Clean radiator,
condenser, pressure cap, and filler neck. Pressure test
the cooling system and pressure cap.
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Automatic Transmission Shift Lock
Control System Check
{CAUTION:
When you are doing this inspection, the
vehicle could move suddenly. If the vehicle
moves, you or others could be injured.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room
around the vehicle. It should be parked on a
level surface.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake. SeeParking Brake
on page 2-24.
Be ready to apply the regular brake immediately if
the vehicle begins to move.
3. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON/RUN,
but do not start the engine. Without applying the
regular brake, try to move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever moves
out of PARK (P), contact your dealer/retailer
for service.
Ignition Transmission Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn
the ignition to LOCK/OFF in each shift lever position.
With an automatic transmission, the ignition
should turn to LOCK/OFF only when the shift lever
is in PARK (P). The ignition key should come
out only in LOCK/OFF.
With a manual transmission, the ignition key should
come out only in LOCK/OFF.
Turn the steering wheel to the left and to the right.
It should only lock when turned to the right.
Contact your dealer/retailer if service is required.
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