2008 GMC SAVANA PASSENGER ABS

Antilock Brake System Warning
Light
For vehicles with
the Antilock Brake
System (ABS), this light
will come on briefly
when you start the engine.
That is normal. If the light does not come on then, have
it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
If the ABS light stays on, turn the ignition off, if the light
comes on when you are driving, stop as soon as it is
safely possible and turn the ignition off. Then start the
engine again to reset the system. If the ABS light still
stays on, or comes on again while you are driving,
your vehicle needs service. If the regular brake system
warning light is not on, you still have brakes, but you do
not have antilock brakes. If the regular brake system
warning light is also on, you do not have antilock brakes
and there is a problem with your regular brakes.
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 3-33
For vehicles with a Driver Information Center (DIC),
seeDIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-49for all
brake related DIC messages.
StabiliTrak®Indicator Light
If you have the
StabiliTrak®system, this
light will be on or flashing,
according to the description
table for the StabiliTrak
®
system.
For more information, seeStabiliTrak
®System on
page 4-5.
You will hear three chimes if the light turns on and one
chime if the light turns off.
If this light remains on steady, your vehicle needs to be
taken in for service.
3-34

Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle..........4-2
Defensive Driving...........................................4-2
Drunk Driving.................................................4-2
Control of a Vehicle........................................4-3
Braking.........................................................4-3
Antilock Brake System (ABS)...........................4-4
Braking in Emergencies...................................4-5
Locking Rear Axle..........................................4-5
StabiliTrak
®System........................................4-5
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System.........................4-7
Steering........................................................4-7
Off-Road Recovery.......................................4-10
Passing.......................................................4-10
Loss of Control.............................................4-10Driving at Night............................................4-12
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads..................4-13
Before Leaving on a Long Trip.......................4-14
Highway Hypnosis........................................4-14
Hill and Mountain Roads................................4-15
Winter Driving..............................................4-16
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud,
Ice, or Snow.............................................4-19
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out.................4-20
Loading Your Vehicle....................................4-20
Towing..........................................................4-25
Towing Your Vehicle.....................................4-25
Recreational Vehicle Towing...........................4-26
Towing a Trailer...........................................4-28
Section 4 Driving Your Vehicle
4-1

And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or
gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or
icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of
the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool
between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much
faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace
with the traffic and allow realistic following distances,
you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking.
That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving,
brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do,
the pedal could get harder to push down. If the
engine stops, you will still have some power brake
assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the
power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and
the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect
your vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modifications on page 5-3.Antilock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start the engine and begin to drive away,
ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary
motor or clicking noise while this test is going on.
This is normal.
If there is a problem with
the ABS, this warning light
will stay on. SeeAntilock
Brake System Warning
Light on page 3-34.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each front wheel
and at both rear wheels.
4-4

ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any
driver could. The computer is programmed to make the
most of available tire and road conditions. This can
help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates
on wheel speed and controls braking pressure
accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to
get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease
stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle
in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes
if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave
enough room up ahead to stop, even though you
have ABS.
Using ABS
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down
firmly and let antilock work for you. You might feel the
brakes vibrate or notice some noise, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time.
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
Locking Rear Axle
If your vehicle has this feature, your locking rear axle
can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand
or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the
time, but when one of the rear wheels has no traction
and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with
traction to move the vehicle.
StabiliTrak®System
If your vehicle has StabiliTrak®, it combines anti-lock
brake, traction and stability control systems and
helps the driver maintain directional control of the
vehicle in most driving conditions.
When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away,
the system performs several diagnostic checks to ensure
that it is working properly. You may hear or feel the
system working. This is normal and does not mean there
is a problem with your vehicle. The system should
initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 mph (32 km/h). In
some cases, it may take approximately 2 miles (3.2 km)
of driving before the system initializes.
4-5

Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are
not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance is longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your
best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking,
including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower
gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
4-11

Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
SeeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4.
•Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
•Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you
are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
•Turn on the hazard warning flashers.
•Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
•Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags,
rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
4-17

When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-26.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
4-40

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps
To replace the front turn signal, sidemarker and/or
parking lamp bulb(s):
1. Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip on
the lamp.
2. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the clip.
Move the lamp to the outboard side to loosen
the tabs.
3. Remove the lamp from the grille.
4. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb socket
while turning it counterclockwise.
5. Remove the bulb socket from the back of the lamp
assembly.
6. Replace the bulb.
7. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall it in the
lamp assembly.
Center High-Mounted
Stoplamp (CHMSL)
The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) is located
above the rear doors at the center of the vehicle.
To replace a bulb:
1. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL assembly.
2. Remove the assembly.
3. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter turn to
remove it from the socket.
4. Install a new bulb.
5. Reverse the steps to reinstall the assembly.
5-50