2008 GMC SAVANA light

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or flowing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake
pedal until the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. Driving through owing water could
cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warnings
and be very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
•Allow extra following distance.
•Pass with caution.
•Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
•Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-53.
4-13

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
•Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
•You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-53.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
4-16

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly.
This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps
the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a
well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle,
and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps.
Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-76.
4-19

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or
stability system. SeeStabiliTrak
®System on page 4-5.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions,
you will cause a rocking motion that could free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few
tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-25.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight
your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the
vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire
and Loading Information label and the
Certification/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
4-20

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
•Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•See also “Driving on Grades” later in this section.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•The weight of the trailer
•The weight of the trailer tongue
•And the weight on your vehicle’s tires
Also seeTow/Haul Mode on page 2-25for information
about the Tow/Haul button, and the Tow/Haul
indicator light.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
4-29

The seven-wire harness connector contains the following
trailer circuits:
•Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)**
•White: Ground
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal*
•Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse)
•Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage
(15A fuse)**
•Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the
following circuits:
•Black: Ground
•Red/White: Battery Feed
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage
* If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions,
a 15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer
turn and right/stop trailer turn signals. However,
the cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp
fuse for each signal.
** If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions,
a 15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps and
cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a
10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.
4-42

{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel
cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then
something ignites it, you could be badly
burned. This spray can happen if your tank is
nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather.
Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss
noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from
painted surfaces as soon as possible. SeeWashing Your
Vehicle on page 5-98.
When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it
clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been
left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to
evaporate into the atmosphere. SeeMalfunction Indicator
Lamp on page 3-36.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for
you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t properly.
This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to
light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions
system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-36.
5-11

How to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter
To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from
the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose
dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new
filter is required. Never use compressed air to clean
the filter.
To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the
following:
1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove the cover.
2. Lift the filter out of the engine air cleaner/filter
housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as
little dirt as possible.
3. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter housing.
4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. Make
sure that the filter fits properly into the housing.
5. Reinstall the cover and fasten the retaining clips.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ames if the engine backres. If it is not
there and the engine backres, you could be
burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre can
cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can easily
get into your engine, which will damage it. Always
have the air cleaner/lter in place when you are
driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
If your vehicle has the DURAMAX®Diesel engine, see
the DURAMAX®Diesel manual for more information.
5-20