2008 GMC ENVOY DENALI steering

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will
need longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get
stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating,
and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp
turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
4-24

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing
water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get
through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle
and other vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system
and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe
is under water, you will never be able to start the engine.
When you go through water, remember that when the
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-27for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system
for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
4-25

Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
SeeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you
are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things
to do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:
Turn on the hazard warning ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you
have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
oor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself
or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
4-31

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive
vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High. Turn off any traction
or stability system. SeeStabiliTrak
®System on page 4-6.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions,
you will cause a rocking motion that could free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few
tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-40.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire
and Loading Information label and the Certication/
Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
4-34

Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that they
would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy
loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do
get the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 5-28.
4-53

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements.....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-6
Gasoline Specications....................................5-6
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-16
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-23
Engine Coolant.............................................5-26
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-28
Engine Overheating.......................................5-28
Cooling System............................................5-30Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-35
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-37
Brakes........................................................5-38
Battery........................................................5-41
Jump Starting...............................................5-42
Rear Axle.......................................................5-46
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-47
Front Axle......................................................5-48
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-49
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-49
Headlamps..................................................5-50
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps..........................................5-51
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps............5-51
Back-Up Lamps............................................5-53
License Plate Lamp......................................5-53
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-54
Tires..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling...................................5-58
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-61
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-64
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-30.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-37.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-28.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-42.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-38.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-41.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-110.
5-13

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-30.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-37.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-16.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-28.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-42.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-38.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-110.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-41.
5-15