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To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge
inboard and release. The door will pop open.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise.
The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released
too soon, it will spring back to the right.
While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the
hook on the fuel door.
{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the
fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full,
and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel
cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or over ll the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have nished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel
from painted surfaces as soon as possible.
SeeWashing Your Vehicle on page 5-112.
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When replacing the fuel cap, insert the tether in its hole
before tightening the cap. Turn the fuel cap clockwise
until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap
on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is
fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if
the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed.
This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere.
SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-44
If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC),
the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the
fuel cap is not properly installed.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel
by shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t
properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator
lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and
emissions system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-44.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped).
SeeEngine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
C. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. SeeCooling
System on page 5-37andCoolant Surge Tank
Pressure Cap on page 5-34.
D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-48.
E. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-47.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-17.
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See “Checking the
Fluid Level” underAutomatic Transmission Fluid
(4-Speed Transmission) on page 5-24orAutomatic
Transmission Fluid (6-Speed Transmission) on
page 5-27.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Out of View).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-48.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking
Engine Oil” underEngine Oil on page 5-17.
J. Engine Cooling Fan. SeeCooling System on
page 5-37.
K. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-42.L. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-44.
M. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-122.
N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-43.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-16for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine
cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
6. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off and the
coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant ll
procedure steps 1 through 6.
Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan, when
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or
high outside temperatures, or if you are operating
your air conditioning system, the fans may change to
high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system
is functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
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