2008 CHEVROLET KODIAK torque

Two-Speed Rear Axle
The Two-Speed rear axle lets the driver select Low
Range and High Range. Low Range provides good
starting torque and pulling power. When selecting High
Range the axle allows for higher road speed and
fuel economy.
For better performance during off-road or under a heavy
load, shift the axle into Low Range and then operate
the transmission normally.
For better performance on the highway, shift the axle to
High Range and operate the transmission normally.
High or Low Range can be used when additional shifts
between transmission gears is needed while driving
on grades and for better fuel economy.
Notice:Driving in Low Range above 50 mph
(80.5 kph) will damage driveline components. Drive
below 50 mph (80.5 kph) in Low Range.
If your vehicle has this feature, there is a label on the
headliner above the windshield or in another place near
the driver that shows how to use it. Be sure to follow
the directions carefully.
Two-Speed Rear Axle Shift Control
Operation
The rear axle shift control
switch for automatic and
manual transmissions
is located in the instrument
panel switchbank.
Press the bottom of the switch for High Range and the
top of the switch for Low Range. The switch indicator
light comes on when the High Range is selected.
Always start your vehicle in motion with the two-speed
axle in low range.
Shifting on a Downgrade
Do not shift the two-speed axle when driving on a
downgrade. The speed of the vehicle moving downhill
may make it hard to shift the axle into either Low or
High Range.
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Aftermarket Engine Performance
Enhancement Products and
Modications
Some aftermarket engine performance products and
modifications promise a way to increase the horsepower
and torque levels of your vehicle’s powertrain. You
should be aware that these products could have harmful
effects on the performance and life of the engine, exhaust
emission system, transmission, and drivetrain. The
engines, transmissions, and drivetrains have been
designed and built to offer industry leading durability and
performance in the most demanding applications. Engine
power enhancement products may enable the engine to
operate at horsepower and torque levels that could
damage, create failure, or reduce the life of the engine,
engine emission system, transmission, and drivetrain.
Damage, failure, or reduced life of the engine,
transmission, emission system, drivetrain, or other
vehicle components caused by aftermarket engine
performance enhancement products or modifications
may not be covered under your vehicle warranty.
California Proposition 65 Warning
Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or
emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including
some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some
component wear by-products contain and/or emit these
chemicals.
California Perchlorate Materials
Requirements
Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag
initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries
contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may
contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be
necessary. For additional information, see
www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.
5-5

5. Use a clean cloth to remove dirt and oil from the
fuel filter head and breather valve.
6. Use the palm of your hand to repeatedly press and
release the plunger at the top of the fuel filter
priming pump. Continue until the plunger resistance
becomes firm. This may take from 20 to 100 times,
depending upon fuel tank location.
7. Turn the fuel filter breather valve screw
counterclockwise several turns to open the breather
valve.
8. Use the palm of your hand to repeatedly press and
release the plunger at the top of the fuel filter
priming pump until fuel begins to seep from the
breather valve.
9. Tighten the fuel filter breather screw to the specified
torque, 4.9Y(43 lbs in).
10. Use the palm of your hand to press and release the
plunger at the top of the fuel filter priming pump
about 20 more times. This sends fuel to the engine.
11. Use a clean cloth to remove any fuel from the fuel
filter and surrounding area.
12. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a
few minutes.
13. Check the fuel filter for leakage.Running Out of Fuel
If the diesel engine stalls and you think that you have
run out of fuel, do this to restart your engine:
{CAUTION:
Diesel fuel is ammable. It could start a re if
it gets on hot engine parts. You could be
burned. Do not let too much fuel ow from the
air bleed valve, and wipe up any spilled fuel
with a cloth.
1. If you are parked on a level surface, add at least
2 gallons (7.6 liters) of fuel. However, if you are
parked on a slope, you may need to add up to
5 gallons (18.9 liters) of fuel.
2. Follow the fuel priming procedure earlier in this
section to prime the fuel filter.
3. Close the air bleed valve.
5-17

Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, check the wheel nut tightness
on all wheels with a torque wrench after your first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
after that. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is
removed or serviced, repeat the 100 miles (160 km),
and then 1,000 mile (1 600 km) wheel nut tightness
check.
SeeTightening the Wheel Nuts on page 5-86for wheel
nut tightening information and proper torque values.
{CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is
badly underinated, the tire can overheat. An
overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch
re. You or others could be injured. Be sure all
tires (including the spare, if any) are properly
inated.
SeeTires on page 5-82andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-82for more information on proper tire inflation.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions,
influence when you need new tires.
Replace your tires when the tread depth is down to
1/8 of an inch (3.2 mm) for the front tires, or 1/16 of an
inch (1.6 mm) for a rear tire. Also, you need a new
tire if:
•You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
•The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
•The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
•The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are
not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if
your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast
this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading
conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With
proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out
before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about
the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult
the tire manufacturer for more information.
5-84

{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break.
If all the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel
could come off and cause a crash. If any stud
is damaged because of a loose-running wheel,
it could be that all of the studs are damaged.
To be sure, replace all studs on the wheel.
If the stud holes in a wheel have become
larger, the wheel could collapse in operation.
Replace any wheel if its stud holes have
become larger or distorted in any way. Inspect
hubs and hub-piloted wheels for damage.
Because of loose running wheels, piloting pad
damage may occur and require replacement of
the entire hub, for proper centering of the
wheels. When replacing studs, hubs, wheel
nuts or wheels, be sure to use GM original
equipment parts.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause a crash. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
How Often to Check
Wheel tightness is so important you should have a
technician check nut tightness on all wheels with
a torque wrench after your first 100 miles (160 km), and
then 1,000 miles (1 600 km) after that. Be sure to
repeat this service whenever you have a tire removed or
serviced. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5for
further information.
5-89

{CAUTION:
Your vehicle, when new, did not include tire
changing equipment or a place to store a tire
in the vehicle. Special tools and procedures
are required if a tire needs to be serviced.
If these tools and procedures are not used,
you or others could be injured or killed while
trying to change or service a truck tire.
Your truck, when new, did not include tire changing
equipment or a place to store a tire in the vehicle. Few
drivers of these vehicles have the necessary equipment
aboard to be able to change a flat tire safely. For
example, you would need a truck jack that can lift
several thousand pounds and a torque wrench that can
generate several hundred foot-pounds (Y)of
twisting force.
{CAUTION:
If you try to put air back into a tire that has run
at, even a tire that was extremely low on air,
the tire can have a sudden air-out. This could
cause you to lose control of the vehicle and
have a serious crash. Do not rell a at or very
low tire with air without rst having the tire
taken off the wheel and checked for damage.
So if you are stopped somewhere by a flat or damaged
tire or wheel, you should get expert help. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5.
5-93

(12)= Check steering system:
•Look for damaged, loose, or missing parts. Inspect
the steering linkage relay rod and tie rod ends for
looseness or lack of lubricant. Also look for parts
showing signs of wear or lack of lubrication. Replace
parts as needed. Also check steering gear mounting
bolts, pitman arm nut, gear housing upper cover and
side cover attaching bolts, steering column mounting
bolts and cardan joint clamp bolts; tighten if
necessary. See the service manual.
•Inspect power steering hoses, tubes, and fittings for
leaks. Hoses and lines must not be twisted, kinked,
or tightly bent. Make sure clips, clamps, supporting
tubes, and hoses are in place and properly secured.
•Check steering gear for leakage around pitman shaft
and housing. If leakage is evident (lubricant oozing
out, not just oily film), leak should be corrected
immediately.
(13)= Check front and rear suspension. Look for
damaged, loose, or missing parts or parts showing signs
of wear or lack of lubrication. Replace parts as needed.
(14)= Adjust tire pressures as indicated on the
Certification or Tire Information label for optimum tire
life. SeeTires on page 5-82for further details. Check
tires for excessive or abnormal wear or damage. Also
check for damaged wheels. Replace wheels and/or tires
as needed.(15)= Check spring-to-axle U-bolts and shackle bolts
for proper torque. See the service manual for torque
sequence and specifications. When parts are replaced,
the torque must be checked and adjusted more often
during the first 6,000 miles (10 000 km). Check torque at
500 miles (800 km) and 2,000 miles (3 000 km) after
first use of parts.
(16)= Check complete exhaust system, including DPF
pressure lines, and cab areas near the exhaust system
for broken, damaged, missing, or out-of-position parts.
Also inspect for open seams, holes, loose connections, or
other conditions which could let exhaust fumes seep into
the driver compartment. Needed repairs should be made
at once. To help maintain system integrity, replace
exhaust pipes whenever a new muffler is put on.
(17)= Check all gasoline engine drive belts for cracks,
fraying, and wear. Replace as needed.
(18)= Adjust valve lash. Incorrect valve clearance will
result in increased engine noise and reduced engine
output.
(19)= With the engine off and below normal operating
temperature, check to see that the thermostatically
controlled engine cooling fan can be rotated by hand on
viscous-operated drives. Replace as needed.
(20)= Check shields and underhood insulation for
damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as needed.
6-22

(33)= Clean and lubricate air brake automatic slack
adjuster. Check pushrod travel and auto adjustment
operation. Have serviced if needed.
(34)= Air brake chamber service: Check operation,
mounting clamps, and air lines and check for leaks.
(35)= Trailer brake hand control valve service: Check
operation; lubricate cam and follower.
(36)= Tighten the wheel stud nuts to the specified
torque values at 100 miles (160 km). Thereafter, tighten
them 1,000 miles (1 600 km) after each time the wheel
is removed. SeeTightening the Wheel Nuts on
page 5-86.
(37)= Inspect and clean any accumulated dirt, gravel,
or other foreign objects from the valves and valve boots
as needed. Using light oil, lubricate brake pedal to
brake application valve linkage components. Check any
rubber boots for cracks, holes, or deterioration and
replace if necessary.(38)= Estimated minimum. Actual mileage depends on
fuel and oil consumed.
(39)= If the vehicle has the Isuzu diesel engine and is
used primarily for long trip, highway service, change
the engine oil and filter every 18,000 miles (28 800 km),
or every 12 months, or every 750 hours of engine
operation, whichever occurs first.
(40)= Make sure any safety belt reminder light and
safety belt assemblies are working properly. Look
for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts.
If you see anything that might keep a safety belt
system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any
torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
6-25