2008 CHEVROLET HHR lock

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems — steering and braking — have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
antilock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand
too much of those places. You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through a
sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two
control systems — steering and acceleration — can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the
road and make you lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-6,Enhanced Traction
System (ETS) on page 4-9, andElectronic Stability
Control (ESC) on page 4-10.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way
you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the
front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can drive through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait
to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect
your vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modifications on page 5-3.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than
braking. For example, you come over a hill and nd a
truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out
from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these
problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But
sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time
for evasive action — steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply the brakes — but, unless you have
antilock brakes, not enough to lock the wheels.
SeeBraking on page 4-3. It is better to remove as much
speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.
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An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road Recovery
You may nd that your vehicle’s right wheels have
dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while
you are driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of
the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to
one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go
straight down the roadway.
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A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) or
the Enhanced Traction System (ETS), remember: It
helps to avoid only the acceleration skid. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 4-6orEnhanced
Traction System (ETS) on page 4-9. If you do not have
TCS or ETS, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
If your vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC),
the ESC might activate. SeeElectronic Stability
Control (ESC) on page 4-10.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your
best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking,
including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower
gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to
slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until
your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
If you have the Antilock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do
not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even if your vehicle has
the Traction Control System (TCS) or Enhanced Traction
System (ETS), slow down and adjust your driving to
the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might
want to turn the TCS or ETS off, such as when driving
through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds or if your vehicle
ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 4-6,Enhanced Traction
System (ETS) on page 4-9,Electronic Stability
Control (ESC) on page 4-10, andIf Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-26.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless your vehicle has the Antilock Brake
System (ABS), you will want to brake very gently, too.
If you have ABS, seeAntilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 4-5. ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when
you make a hard stop on a slippery road.Whether your vehicle has ABS or not, begin stopping
sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if
you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
Remember, unless your vehicle has ABS, if you brake
so hard that the wheels stop rolling, you will just
slide. Brake so the wheels always keep rolling and you
can still steer.
Whatever your vehicle’s braking system, allow
greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass can remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run the engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel.
When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than
just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses
less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery
charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart
the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the
headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
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Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle
show how much weight it may properly carry, the
Tire and Loading Information label and the
Vehicle Certication label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar
(B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will nd
the label attached below the door lock post (striker).
The tire and loading information label lists the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and the
maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms
and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight includes
the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all
nonfactory-installed options.
Label Example
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With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you
will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to
be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip
on page 4-20.
Dinghy Towing
You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following
these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering
wheel.
3. Shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Release the parking brake.
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To prevent the battery from draining while the vehicle is
being towed, remove the following fuse from the oor
console fuse block: 8 (Ignition Switch, PASS-Key
®III+).
SeeFloor Console Fuse Block on page 5-120for
more information.
Remember to reinstall the fuse once you have reached
your destination.
Notice:If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
Notice:Towing your vehicle from the rear could
damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by
the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from
the rear.
Dolly Towing
Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed, but can be dinghy
towed. See “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section.
Notice:Dolly towing your vehicle may cause
damage because of reduced ground clearance.
Always tow your vehicle using the dinghy towing
procedure listed in this section or put your vehicle
on a atbed truck.
Towing a Trailer (Manual Transaxle)
Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a
manual transaxle.
Towing a Trailer (Automatic
Transaxle)
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and
information about towing a trailer with your
vehicle.
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