2008 CHEVROLET EXPRESS PASSANGER torque

DRIVE (D):This position is for normal driving. It
provides the best fuel economy for your vehicle. If you
need more power for passing, and you are:
•Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your
accelerator pedal about halfway down.
•Going about 35 mph (55 km/h) or more, push the
accelerator all the way down.
You will shift down to the next gear and have more
power.
Downshifting the transmission in slippery road conditions
could result in skidding, see “Skidding” underLoss of
Control on page 4-11.
THIRD (3):This position is also used for normal driving.
However it reduces vehicle speed more than DRIVE (D)
without using your brakes. You might choose
THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D) when driving on hilly,
winding roads, when towing a trailer, so there is
less shifting between gears and when going down a
steep hill.
You should use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower
gear) when towing a trailer to minimize heat build-up
and extend the life of your transmission.SECOND (2):This position reduces vehicle speed even
more than THIRD (3) without using your brakes. You
can use SECOND (2) on hills. It can help control
your speed as you go down steep mountain roads, but
then you would also want to use your brakes off
and on.
You may use this feature for reducing torque to the rear
wheels when you are trying to start your vehicle from
a stop on slippery road surfaces.
FIRST (1): This position reduces vehicle speed even
more than SECOND (2) without using your brakes. You
can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or
mud. If the shift lever is put in FIRST (1) while the
vehicle is moving forward, the transmission will not shift
into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
Notice:Spinning the tires or holding the vehicle in
one place on a hill using only the accelerator
pedal may damage the transmission. The repair will
not be covered by your warranty. If you are stuck,
do not spin the tires. When stopping on a hill,
use the brakes to hold the vehicle in place.
2-26

Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you do not shift your
vehicle into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the vehicle
may put too much force on the parking pawl in the
transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever
out of PARK (P). This is called torque lock. To prevent
torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift into
PARK (P) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To
find out how, seeShifting Into PARK (P) on page 2-29.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another
vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the
pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so
you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
Your vehicle has an automatic transaxle shift lock
control system. You have to fully apply your regular
brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when
the ignition is RUN. SeeAutomatic Transmission
Operation on page 2-24.The shift lock control system is designed to do the
following:
•Prevent the ignition key from being removed unless
the shift lever is in PARK (P).
•Prevent movement of the shift lever out of PARK (P),
unless the ignition is in ON/RUN and the regular
brake pedal is applied.
The shift lock control system is always functional except
in the case of a dead battery or low voltage (less
than 9 V) battery.
If your vehicle has an uncharged battery or a battery with
low voltage, try charging or jump starting the battery. See
Jump Starting on page 5-41for more information.
To shift out of PARK (P) use the following:
1. Apply the brake pedal.
2. Move the shift lever to the desired position.
If you still are unable to shift out of PARK (P):
1. Ease the pressure on the shift lever.
2. While holding down the brake pedal, push the shift
lever all the way into PARK (P)
3. Move the shift lever to the desired position.
If you are still having a problem shifting, then have your
vehicle serviced soon.
2-30

Brake Wear
Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have
built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning
sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads
are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all
the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are
pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that
soon the brakes will not work well. That could
lead to an accident. When you hear the brake
wear warning sound, have your vehicle
serviced.
Notice:Continuing to drive with worn-out brake
pads could result in costly brake repair.Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
the brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in
the proper sequence to torque specifications in
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not
return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service
might be required.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, the disc brakes
adjust for wear.
5-39

How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire
pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are
properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial
tires may look properly inflated even when they
are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation
pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your
vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours
or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem.
Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to
get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire
inflation pressure matches the recommended
pressure on the Tire and Loading Information
label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the
pressure is low, add air until you reach the
recommended amount.
If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on
the metal stem in the center of the tire valve.
Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve
stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt
and moisture.
Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt
or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
of driving. For proper wheel nut tightening information,
see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire”
later in this section, underChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-82. Also see “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116.
The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears
faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more
evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically.
SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-71. Also
seeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
{CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is
badly underinated, the tire can overheat. An
overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch
re. You or others could be injured. Be sure all
tires (including the spare) are properly inated.
SeeTires on page 5-56andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-64for more information on proper tire inflation.
5-65

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use
one of the correct rotation patterns shown
here when rotating the tires.
When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent
holes in the inner and outer wheels on each
side are lined up.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the
front and rear inflation pressures as shown
on the Tire and Loading Information label. See
Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64andLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-20. Make certain that all
wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut
Torque” underCapacities and Specifications on
page 5-116.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt
off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-82.
If your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS), reset the TPMS sensors after
rotating the tires. SeeTire Pressure Monitor
Operation on page 5-67.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push,
pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it
moves, tighten the cable. SeeStoring a Flat or
Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-97.
Dual Rear Wheels
5-72

{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel
bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be
dangerous. It could affect the braking and
handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose
air and make you lose control. You could have
a collision in which you or others could be
injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel
bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice:The wrong wheel can also cause problems
with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height,
vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain
clearance to the body and chassis.
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on
a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque”
underCapacities and Specifications on page 5-116.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-82for more
information.
Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You cannot know how it has been
used or how far it has been driven. It could fail
suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to
replace a wheel, use a new GM original
equipment wheel.
5-79

{CAUTION:
If wheel studs are damaged, they can break. If
all the studs on a wheel broke, the wheel could
come off and cause a crash. If any stud is
damaged because of a loose-running wheel, it
could be that all of the studs are damaged. To
be sure, replace all studs on the wheel. If the
stud holes in a wheel have become larger, the
wheel could collapse in operation. Replace any
wheel if its stud holes have become larger or
distorted in any way. Inspect hubs and
hub-piloted wheels for damage. Because of
loose running wheels, piloting pad damage may
occur and require replacement of the entire hub,
for proper centering of the wheels. When
replacing studs, hubs, wheel nuts or wheels, be
sure to use GM original equipment parts.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts
can cause the wheel to come loose and even
come off. This could lead to a crash. If you
have to replace them, be sure to get new
original equipment wheel nuts. Stop
somewhere as soon as you can and have the
nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the
proper torque specication. SeeCapacities
and Specifications on page 5-116for wheel nut
torque specication.
Notice:Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specication. SeeCapacities and
Specifications on page 5-116for the wheel nut
torque specication.
5-92

11. Use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts firmly.
Turn the wheel wrench clockwise and in a
crisscross sequence as shown.
12. Put the wheel cover or the center cap and plastic
wheel nut caps back on. Remove any wheel blocks.
Have a technician check the wheel nut tightness of
all wheels with a torque wrench after the first
100 miles (160 km) and then 1,000 miles (1600 km)
after that. Repeat this service whenever you have
a tire removed or serviced. SeeCapacities and
Specifications on page 5-116for more information.
Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is
designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling
off the vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is
damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must
be stowed with the valve stem pointing down.
SeeStoring a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-97
for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed next.
5-93