2008 CHEVROLET EXPRESS PASSANGER light

Off-Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off
the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are
driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of
the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to
one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go
straight down the roadway.
Passing
Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be
dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing,
we suggest the following tips:
•Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads
for situations that might affect a successful pass.
If in doubt, wait.
•Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and
lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection.
Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side
of the lane.
•Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
•Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle.
•When you are being passed, ease to the right.
4-10

Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
•Drive defensively.
•Do not drink and drive.
•Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
•Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because your headlamps can only
light up so much road ahead.
•Watch for animals.
•When tired, pull off the road.
•Do not wear sunglasses.
•Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
•Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
•Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But,
as we get older, these differences increase. A
50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
4-12

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or flowing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake
pedal until the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. Driving through owing water could
cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warnings
and be very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
•Allow extra following distance.
•Pass with caution.
•Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
•Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-56.
4-13

Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
•Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
•You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-56.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
4-16

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will
need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the
headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-80.
4-19

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to
clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off
any traction or stability system. SeeStabiliTrak
®
System on page 4-5. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the
wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission
wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting
gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift,
and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when
the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the
wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will
cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle.
If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it
might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-25.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the
vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire
and Loading Information label and the
Certification/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do,
parts on your vehicle can break, and it
can change the way your vehicle handles.
These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.
4-20

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
•Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•See also “Driving on Grades” later in this section.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•The weight of the trailer
•The weight of the trailer tongue
•And the weight on your vehicle’s tires
Also seeTow/Haul Mode on page 2-27for information
about the Tow/Haul button, and the Tow/Haul
indicator light.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
4-29

Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector at the
rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the driver side of the instrument panel. The
four-wire harness assembly comes without a connector.
If your vehicle does not have a trailer hitch, the
seven-wire harness assembly with connector is taped
together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side
rear left corner of the frame.
If your vehicle has a trailer hitch, the seven-wire
harness assembly with connector is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform. In both cases, the
seven-wire harness has a connector and includes a
30-amp feed wire.
The seven-wire harness connector contains the following
trailer circuits:
•Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)**
•White: Ground
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal*
•Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse)
•Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage
(15A fuse)**
•Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *
The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the
following circuits:
•Black: Ground
•Red/White: Battery Feed
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage
* If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer turn
and right/stop trailer turn signals. However, the
cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp fuse for
each signal.
** If your vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a
10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.
4-42