If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, a yellow cap with
the words “E85/gasoline” can be seen.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise.
While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the
hook on the fuel door.
{CAUTION:
Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel
cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full,
and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel
cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop.
Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the
tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished
pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel
from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See
Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-102.When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it
clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has
been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel
to evaporate into the atmosphere. SeeMalfunction
Indicator Lamp on page 3-38.
{CAUTION:
If a re starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the ow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one
for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not t
properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator
lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and
emissions system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp
on page 3-38.
5-11
A. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
B. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-27.
C. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System on
page 5-29.
D. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-15.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) on page 5-15.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-35.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-37.
J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-36.Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in
the DURAMAX®Diesel manual.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at
or above the COLD FILL mark. If it is not, you may
have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses,
heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere
else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater, fuel operated heater (FOH), radiator
hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot.
Do not touch them. If you do, you can be
burned.
Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you
run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That
could cause an engine re, and you could be
burned. Get any leak xed before you drive the
vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle
speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal
down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off
the engine.Notice:Engine damage from running the engine
without coolant is not covered by the warranty.
Notice:Using coolant other than DEX-COOL
®may
cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator
corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could
require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km)
or 24 months, whichever occurs rst. Any repairs
would not be covered by the warranty. Always
use DEX-COOL
®(silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Recovery Tank for Gasoline Engines
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “How to
Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank” under “Van
Models” in the Cooling System section of the
DURAMAX
®Diesel Supplement for the proper coolant
fill procedure.
If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant
level is not at the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture
of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL
®engine
coolant at the coolant recovery tank. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-24for more information.
5-30
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the filler neck until the level reaches
the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages, so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
partially disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
5-34
(D) Construction Code:A letter code is used to
indicate the type of ply construction in the tire.
The letter R means radial ply construction;
the letter D means diagonal or bias ply
construction; and the letter B means belted-bias
ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter
:Diameter of the wheel in
inches.
(F) Service Description
:The service description
indicates the load range and speed rating of a
tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279.
Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and De nitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the
tire pressing outward on each square inch of the
tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per
square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight
:This means the combined
weight of optional accessories. Some examples of
optional accessories are, automatic transmission,
power steering, power brakes, power windows,
power seats, and air conditioning.Aspect Ratio
:The relationship of a tire’s height
to its width.
Belt
:A rubber coated layer of cords that is
located between the plies and the tread. Cords
may be made from steel or other reinforcing
materials.
Bead
:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped
by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire
:A pneumatic tire in which the plies
are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure
:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch
(psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up
heat from driving. SeeInflation - Tire Pressure
on page 5-64.
Curb Weight
:The weight of a motor vehicle with
standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant,
but without passengers and cargo.
5-61