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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.
Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle
has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to
the negative (−) terminal of the good battery.
Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle
has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the
next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to
the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle
with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote
negative (−) terminal for this purpose. It is
marked GND.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If
it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Always connect
and remove the jumper cables in the correct
order, making sure that the cables do not touch
each other or other metal.
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A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) TerminalTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
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All-Wheel Drive
Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these
vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that
need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten the plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-13.
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Rear Axle
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is
from 5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below
the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for
the 2500 and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below
the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough
fluid to reach the proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-13.
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Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the
bottom of the filler plug
hole, you may need to add
some lubricant.When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to
raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler
plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-13.
Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with
a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty
booklet.
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These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for
the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or
delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in
use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:
•
Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:
•
Removal or rendering engine speed governor, if the
vehicle has one, inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive:
•
Removal of fan clutch, if the vehicle has one, or
rendering clutch inoperative.
•Removal of the fan shroud, if the vehicle has one.
Air Intake:
•
Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
•Modification of the air cleaner.
Exhaust:
•
Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
•Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe
clamps.
Fuel Operated Heater (FOH) — Diesel
Engine:
•
Removal of the muffler.
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Bulb Replacement
For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see
Replacement Bulbs on page 5-54.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this
section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside
and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb.
You or others could be injured. Be sure to read
and follow the instructions on the bulb
package.
Headlamps
To remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle and
access the bulbs:
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-13
for more information.
2. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly.
3. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp
assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin
clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove
the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it
straight up.
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