2008 CHEVROLET COBALT tow

Dolly Towing
Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed, but can be dinghy
towed. See “Dinghy Towing” earlier in this section.
Notice:Dolly towing your vehicle may cause
damage because of reduced ground clearance.
Always tow your vehicle using the dinghy towing
procedure listed in this section or put your vehicle
on a atbed truck.
Towing a Trailer
(Manual Transmission)
Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a
manual transmission. If you have the Cobalt Sport, you
can tow a trailer. See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index for
more information.
Towing a Trailer
(Automatic Transmission)
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and
information about towing a trailer with your
vehicle.
4-34

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. If your vehicle is not
equipped as stated above, do not tow a trailer. To identify
the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the
information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in
this section. Trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it
has to be used properly.
That is the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
Also, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow
a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do
not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine
and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to
save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow when the outside air temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).
Do not tow more than 1,000 miles (1 600 km)
per year.
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Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The total weight on your vehicle’s tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information
or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance
Offices. SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-5
for more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the
vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you
tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW
because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-27for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total
loaded trailer weight (B).
4-36

Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a
good deal longer, you will need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to
your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
4-38

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator
is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce
engine load. SeeEngine Overheating on page 5-23.
When towing under severe conditions such as hot
ambient temperatures or steep grades, your vehicle may
experience more transmission shifting. A COOLING
MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC.
This alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress
and is aiding engine cooling. SeeDIC Warnings and
Messages on page 3-43for more information.
4-39

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are transmission uid
(do not overll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system
and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index
will help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it is a good idea to review this information before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-23.
4-41

Hood Release
To open the hood, do the following.
1. Pull the interior hood
release lever with
this symbol on it.
It is located under
the instrument panel
on the driver’s
side of the vehicle.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push
the secondary hood release lever to the left.
It is located under the front center of the hood
toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. After you have partially lifted the hood, a gas strut
will automatically take over to lift and hold the
hood in the fully open position.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the ller caps
are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting
force of the strut is reduced, then release the hood
to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is
closed and repeat the process if necessary.
5-11

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking
Engine Oil” underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-31andHydraulic Clutch
on page 5-20.
E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-108.
F. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-34.
G. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-34.
H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-25.
I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-30.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
5-13