
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need
longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you
do not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating,
and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken
the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice
and you and your passengers could drown.
Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
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Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water,
it can still wash away the ground from under
your tires, and you could lose traction and
roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through
rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not
get through. Also, water that deep can damage the
axle and other vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long
as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able
to start the engine. When you go through water,
remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take
you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-26
for more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
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Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
SeeStabiliTrak
®System on page 4-6,If Your Vehicle
is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-33,
andRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
SeeAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear
in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach,
such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in
a serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some
things to do to summon help and keep yourself and
your passengers safe:
Turn on the hazard warning ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags,
rags, oor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and
possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps.
Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the
engine again and repeat this only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little
as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour
or so until help comes.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often
help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s
traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-75.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear
the area around the front wheels. For vehicles with
StabiliTrak
®, turn the traction control part of the
system off. SeeStabiliTrak®System on page 4-6.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels
stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on
the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your
vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. Or, you can use recovery hooks, if your
vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-41.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.
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Automatic Level Control
The automatic level control rear suspension
comes as a part of the Road Sensing Suspension.
SeeRoad Sensing Suspension on page 4-6.
This type of level control is fully automatic and
will provide a better leveled riding position as well
as better handling under a variety of passenger and
loading conditions. An air compressor connected
to the rear shocks will raise or lower the rear of
the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle height.
The system is activated when the ignition key
is turned to RUN and will automatically adjust
vehicle height thereafter. The system may
exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to 10 minutes
after the ignition key has been turned to LOCK.
You may hear the air compressor operating when
the height is being adjusted.
If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to in ate,
thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting
the height. See “Weight distributing Hitches
and Weight Carrying Hitches” underTowing
a Trailer on page 4-44
.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing
service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed.
SeeRoadside Service on page 7-6.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see Recreational Vehicle Towing following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following.
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Here are some important things to consider before
you do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they
can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional
for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to
be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip
on page 4-28.
Dinghy Towing and Dolly Towing
All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
if any of its wheels will be on the ground.
Your vehicle is not designed to be towed with any of the
wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-41.
Dinghy Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
all four wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Do not tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal
lubrication while being towed.
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Dolly Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
(Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal
lubrication while being towed.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly
with the front wheels on the ground provided that
the wheels are straight.
Use the following procedure to dolly tow your vehicle:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly.
2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
4. Firmly set the parking brake.
5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow dolly.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing vehicle.
Autoride®
The Autoride®feature provides improved vehicle
ride and handling under a variety of passenger and
loading conditions.
The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed,
wheel to body position, lift/dive and steering position
of the vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each
shock absorber to independently adjust the damping
level to provide the optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride
®also interacts with the tow/haul mode that,
when activated, will provide additional control of
the shock absorbers. This additional control results
in better ride and handling characteristics when
the vehicle is loaded or towing a trailer. See “Tow/Haul
Mode” underTowing a Trailer on page 4-44for more
information.
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