2007 SUZUKI XL7 Traction

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78J00-03E
build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass
makes lights dazzle and flash more than
clean glass would, making the pupils of
your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that the headlamps light up far
less of a roadway when you are in a turn or
curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it
is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects.
Just as the headlamps should be checked
regularly for proper aim, so should your
eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers
suffer from night blindness – the inability to
see in dim light – and are not even aware
of it.Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
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Rain and wet roads can mean driving trou-
ble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accel-
erate, or turn as well because your tire-to-
road traction is not as good as on dryroads. And, if your tires do not have much
tread left, you will get even less traction. It
is always wise to go slower and be cau-
tious if rain starts to fall while you are driv-
ing. The surface may get wet suddenly
when your reflexes are tuned for driving on
dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see.
Even if your windshield wiper blades are in
good shape, a heavy rain can make it
harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road,
and even people walking.
It is wise to keep your windshield wiper and
washer system in good shape and keep
your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled
with washer fluid. Replace your windshield
wiper inserts when they show signs of
streaking or missing areas on the wind-
shield, or when strips of rubber start to
separate from the inserts.
Driving too fast through large water pud-
dles or even going through some carwashes can cause problems, too. The
water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow
down before you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much
water can build up under your tires that
they can actually ride on the water. This
can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your
vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no
contact with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it
can if your tires do not have much tread or
if the pressure in one or more is low. It can
happen if a lot of water is standing on the
road. If you can see reflections from trees,
telephone poles, or other vehicles, and
raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there
could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher
speeds. There just is not a hard and fast
rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is
to slow down when it is raining.
WARNING
Wet brakes can cause accidents.
They may not work as well in a quick
stop and may cause pulling to one
side. You could lose control of the
vehicle. After driving through a large
puddle of water or a car wash, apply
the brake pedal lightly until the
brakes work normally.

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of the road. Drive at speeds that let you
stay in your own lane.
 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert.
There could be something in your lane,
like a stalled car or an accident.
 You may see highway signs on moun-
tains that warn of special problems.
Examples are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area,
or winding roads. Be alert to these and
take appropriate action.Winter Driving
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Here are some tips for winter driving:
 Have your vehicle in good shape for win-
ter.
 You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your vehicle.Also refer to “Tires” in the “Service and
Appearance Care” section.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or
broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid,
a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small
shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a cou-
ple of reflective warning triangles. And, if
you will be driving under severe conditions,
include a small bag of sand, a piece of old
carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the
tires meet the road probably have good
traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between
the tires and the road, you can have a very
slippery situation. You will have a lot less
traction, or grip, and will need to be very
careful.
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What is the worst time for this? Wet ice.
Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard
to drive on. But wet ice can be even more
trouble because it may offer the least trac-
tion of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing
rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on
wet ice until salt and sand crews can get
there.
Whatever the condition – smooth ice,
packed, blowing, or loose snow – drive
with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to
accelerate when driving on a slippery road.
But you can turn the traction system off if
you ever need to. You should turn the trac-
tion system off if your vehicle ever gets
stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. Refer to
“If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice,
or Snow” in this section. Even though your

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vehicle has a traction system, you will want
to slow down and adjust your driving to the
road conditions. Under certain conditions,
you may want to turn the traction system
off, such as when driving through deep
snow and loose gravel, to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds. Refer to
“Traction Control System (TCS)” and
“Electronic Stability Control” in this section.
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
improves your vehicle’s stability when you
make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have ABS, you will want to
begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. Refer to “Anti-Lock Brake
System (ABS)” in this section.
 Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
 Watch for slippery spots. The road might
be fine until you hit a spot that is covered
with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice
patches may appear in shaded areas
where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind build-
ings, or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the
ice, and avoid sudden steering maneu-
vers.If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you
could be in a serious situation. You should
probably stay with your vehicle unless you
know for sure that you are near help and
you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and
keep yourself and your passengers safe:
 Turn on your hazard flashers.
 Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert
police that you have been stopped by the
snow.
 Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket
around you. If you do not have blankets
or extra clothing, make body insulators
from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats – anything you can wrap
around yourself or tuck under your cloth-
ing to keep warm.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but
be careful.
Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine,
make it go a little faster than just idle. That
is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses
less fuel for the heat that you get and it
keeps the battery charged.
You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signal-
ing later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the
window almost all the way to preserve the
heat. Start the engine again and repeat
this only when you feel really uncomfort-
WARNING
Snow can trap exhaust gases under
your vehicle. This can cause deadly
CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get
inside. CO could overcome you and
kill you. You cannot see it or smell it,
so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle,
especially any that is blocking the
exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the
side of the vehicle that is away from
the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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able from the cold. But do it as little as pos-
sible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the
vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exer-
cises every half hour or so until help
comes.If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or SnowIn order to free your vehicle when it is
stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but
you do not want to spin your wheels too
fast. The method known as rocking can
help you get out when you are stuck, but
you must use caution.For information about using tire chains on
your vehicle, refer to “Tire Chains” in
“Tires” in the “Service and Appearance
Care” section.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front
wheels. If your vehicle has traction control,
you should turn the traction control system
off. Refer to “Traction Control System
(TCS)” in this section. Then shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a for-
ward gear, spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in
gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the
forward and reverse directions, you will
cause a rocking motion that may free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle
out after a few tries, it may need to be
towed out. If your vehicle does need to be
towed out, refer to “Towing Your Vehicle”
in this section.
Loading Your VehicleIt is very important to know how much
weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it
may properly carry, the Tire and Loading
Information label and the Vehicle Certifica-
tion label.
WARNING
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at
high speed, they can explode, and
you or others could be injured. And,
the transaxle or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could
cause an engine compartment fire or
other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible.
Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedom-
eter.
CAUTION
Spinning the wheels can destroy
parts of your vehicle as well as the
tires. If you spin the wheels too fast
while shifting the transaxle back and
forth, you can destroy the transaxle.
Refer to “Rocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out” in this section.
WARNING
Do not load your vehicle any heavier
than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR), or either the maximum front
or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change
the way your vehicle handles. These
could cause you to lose control and
crash. Also, overloading can shorten
the life of your vehicle.

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ServiceYour dealer knows your vehicle best and
wants you to be happy with it. We hope
you will go to your dealer for all your ser-
vice and parts needs.Accessories and ModificationsWhen you add non-Suzuki accessories to
your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s
performance and safety, including such
things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride
and handling, emissions systems, aerody-
namics, durability, and electronic systems
like anti-lock brakes, traction control, and
stability control. Some of these accesso-
ries may even cause malfunction or dam-
age not covered by warranty.
Suzuki accessories are designed to com-
plement and function with other systems
on your vehicle. Your Suzuki dealer can
accessorize your vehicle using genuine
Suzuki accessories. When you go to your
Suzuki dealer and ask for Suzuki accesso-
ries, you will know that Suzuki-trained and
supported service technicians will perform
the work using genuine Suzuki accesso-
ries.
California Proposition 65 WarningMost motor vehicles, including this one,
contain and/or emit chemicals known to
the State of California to cause cancer and
birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Engine exhaust, many parts and systems
(including some inside the vehicle), many
fluids, and some component wear by-prod-
ucts contain and/or emit these chemicals.Doing Your Own Service WorkIf you want to do some of your own service
work, you will want to use the proper ser-
vice manual. It tells you much more about
how to service your vehicle than this man-
ual can.Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before
attempting to do your own service work,
refer to “Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped
Vehicle” in “Airbag System” in the “Seats
and Restraint Systems” section.
You should keep a record with all parts
receipts and list the mileage and the date
of any service work you perform. Refer to
“Maintenance Record” in “Maintenance
Schedule” in the “Maintenance Schedule”
section.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your VehicleThings you might add to the outside of
your vehicle can affect the airflow around
it. This may cause wind noise and affect
windshield washer performance. Check
with your dealer before adding equipment
to the outside of your vehicle.
WARNING
You can be injured and your vehicle
could be damaged if you try to do
service work on a vehicle without
knowing enough about it.
 Be sure you have sufficient knowl-
edge, experience, the proper
replacement parts, and tools before
you attempt any vehicle mainte-
nance task.
 Be sure to use the proper nuts,
bolts, and other fasteners. English
and metric fasteners can be easily
confused. If you use the wrong fas-
teners, parts can later break or fall
off. You could be hurt.

5-27 SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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grade tires based on three perfor-
mance factors: treadwear, traction,
and temperature resistance. For more
information refer to “Uniform Tire
Quality Grading” in this section.
G. Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit:
Maximum load that can be carried
and the maximum pressure needed to
support that load.
Compact Spare Tire Example
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A. Temporary Use Only:
The compact spare tire or temporary
use tire has a tread life of approxi-
mately 3000 miles (5000 km) and
should not be driven at speeds over
65 mph (105 km/h). The compact
spare tire is for emergency use when
a regular road tire has lost air and
gone flat. If your vehicle has a com-
pact spare tire, refer to “CompactSpare Tire” and “If a Tire Goes Flat”
in this section.
B. Tire Ply Material:
The type of cord and number of plies
in the sidewall and under the tread.
C. Tire Identification Number (TIN):
The letters and numbers following the
DOT (Department of Transportation)
code is the Tire Identification Number
(TIN). The TIN shows the manufac-
turer and plant code, tire size, and
date the tire was manufactured. The
TIN is molded onto both sides of the
tire, although only one side may have
the date of manufacture.
D. Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit:
Maximum load that can be carried
and the maximum pressure needed to
support that load.
E. Tire Inflation:
The temporary use tire or compact
spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi
(420 kPa). For more information on
tire pressure and inflation refer to
“Inflation – Tire Pressure” in this sec-
tion.
F. Tire Size:
A combination of letters and numbers
define a tire’s width, height, aspect
ratio, construction type, and service
description. The letter T as the first
character in the tire size means the
tire is for temporary use only.
G. TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria
Specification):
Original equipment tires designed toSUZUKI’s specific tire performance
criteria have a TPC specification code
molded onto the sidewall. SUZUKI’s
TPC specifications meet or exceed all
federal safety guidelines.
Tire SizeThe following illustration shows an exam-
ple of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
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A. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:
The United States version of a metric
tire sizing system. The letter P as the
first character in the tire size means a
passenger vehicle tire engineered to
standards set by the U.S. Tire and
Rim Association.
B. Tire Width:
The three-digit number indicates the
tire section width in millimeters from
sidewall to sidewall.

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Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle” in the
“Driving Your Vehicle” section.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:
The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must
always face outward when mounted on a
vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):
The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:
A tire used on light duty trucks and some
multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index:
An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure:
The maximum air pressure to which a cold
tire may be inflated. The maximum air
pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:
The load rating for a tire at the maximum
permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:
The sum of curb weight, accessory weight,
vehicle capacity weight, and production
options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:
The number of occupants a vehicle is
designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68
kg). Refer to “Loading Your Vehicle” in
“Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle”
in the “Driving Your Vehicle” section.Occupant Distribution:
Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall:
The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a
particular side that faces outward when
mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire
that contains a whitewall, bears white let-
tering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/
or model name molding that is higher or
deeper than the same moldings on the
other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:
A tire used on passenger cars and some
light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure:
Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire
inflation pressure as shown on the tire
placard. Refer to “Inflation – Tire Pressure”
in this section and “Loading Your Vehicle”
in “Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehi-
cle” in the “Driving Your Vehicle” section.
Radial Ply Tire:
A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that
extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees
to the centerline of the tread.
Rim:
A metal support for a tire and upon which
the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall:
The portion of a tire between the tread and
the bead.Speed Rating:
An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire
indicating the maximum speed at which a
tire can operate.
Traction:
The friction between the tire and the road
surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread:
The portion of a tire that comes into con-
tact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators:
Narrow bands, sometimes called wear
bars, that show across the tread of a tire
when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread
remains. Refer to “When It Is Time for New
Tires” in this section.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Standards):
A tire information system that provides
consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction,
temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are
determined by tire manufacturers using
government testing procedures. The rat-
ings are molded into the sidewall of the
tire. Refer to “Uniform Tire Quality Grad-
ing” in this section.
Vehicle Capacity Weight:
The number of designated seating posi-
tions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the
rated cargo load. Refer to “Loading Your
Vehicle” in “Your Driving, the Road, and
Your Vehicle” in the “Driving Your Vehicle”
section.

5-34 SERVICE AND APPEARANCE CARE
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Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System.
Refer to “TPMS Sensor Matching Process”
under “Tire Pressure Monitor System” in
this section.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are prop-
erly tightened. Refer to “Wheel Nut
Torque” under “Capacities and Specifica-
tions” in this section.
When It Is Time for New Tires
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One way to tell when it is time for new tires
is to check the treadwear indicators, which
will appear when your tires have only 1/16
inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
Some commercial truck tires may not have
treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following
statements are true:
 You can see the indicators at three or
more places around the tire.
 You can see cord or fabric showing
through the tire’s rubber.
 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or
snagged deep enough to show cord or
fabric.
 The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
 The tire has a puncture, cut, or other
damage that cannot be repaired wellbecause of the size or location of the
damage.
Buying New TiresThe original equipment tires installed on
your vehicle, when it was new, were
designed to meet the Tire Performance
Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system
rating. If you need replacement tires,
Suzuki strongly recommends that you get
tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This
way, your vehicle will continue to have tires
that are designed to give the same perfor-
mance and vehicle safety, during normal
use, as the original tires.
The exclusive TPC Spec system considers
over a dozen critical specifications that
impact the overall performance of your
vehicle, including brake system perfor-
mance, ride and handling, traction control,
and tire pressure monitoring performance.
The TPC Spec number is molded onto the
tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If
the tires have an all-season tread design,
the TPC spec number will be followed by a
MS, for mud and snow. Refer to “Tire Side-
wall Labeling” in this section for additional
information.
WARNING
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the
parts to which it is fastened, can
make wheel nuts become loose after
time. The wheel could come off and
cause an accident. When you change
a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to
the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do
this; but be sure to use a scraper or
wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. Refer to “Chang-
ing a Flat Tire” in this section.