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GW-6
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SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
If the noise can be duplicated easily during the test drive, to help identify the source of the noise, try to dupli-
cate the noise with the vehicle stopped by doing one or all of the following:
1) Close a door.
2) Tap or push/pull around the area where the noise appears to be coming from.
3) Rev the engine.
4) Use a floor jack to recreate vehicle “twist”.
5) At idle, apply engine load (electrical load, half-clutch on M/T model, drive position on A/T model).
6) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and hit a tire with a rubber hammer.
• Drive the vehicle and attempt to duplicate the conditions the customer states exist when the noise occurs.
• If it is difficult to duplicate the noise, drive the vehicle slowly on an undulating or rough road to stress the
vehicle body.
CHECK RELATED SERVICE BULLETINS
After verifying the customer concern or symptom, check ASIST for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related
to that concern or symptom.
If a TSB relates to the symptom, follow the procedure to repair the noise.
LOCATE THE NOISE AND IDENTIFY THE ROOT CAUSE
1. Narrow down the noise to a general area.To help pinpoint the source of the noise, use a listening tool
(Chassis Ear: J-39570, Engine Ear: J-39565 and mechanic's stethoscope).
2. Narrow down the noise to a more specific area and identify the cause of the noise by:
• removing the components in the area that you suspect the noise is coming from.
Do not use too much force when removing clips and fasteners, otherwise clips and fasteners can be broken
or lost during the repair, resulting in the creation of new noise.
• tapping or pushing/pulling the component that you suspect is causing the noise.
Do not tap or push/pull the component with excessive force, otherwise the noise will be eliminated only tem-
porarily.
• feeling for a vibration with your hand by touching the component(s) that you suspect is (are) causing the
noise.
• placing a piece of paper between components that you suspect are causing the noise.
• looking for loose components and contact marks.
Refer to GW-7, "
Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting".
REPAIR THE CAUSE
• If the cause is a loose component, tighten the component securely.
• If the cause is insufficient clearance between components:
- separate components by repositioning or loosening and retightening the component, if possible.
- insulate components with a suitable insulator such as urethane pads, foam blocks, felt cloth tape or urethane
tape. A NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) is available through your authorized NISSAN Parts Depart-
ment.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive force as many components are constructed of plastic and may be damaged.
Always check with the Parts Department for the latest parts information.
The following materials are contained in the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980). Each item can be
ordered separately as needed.
URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100×135 mm (3.94×5.31 in)/76884-71L01: 60×85 mm (2.36×3.35 in)/76884-71L02: 15×25
mm (0.59×0.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact. Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50×50 mm (1.97×1.97 in)/73982-50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick,
50×50 mm (1.97×1.97 in)
INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30×50 mm (1.18×1.97 in)
FELT CLOTH TAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occur. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
68370-4B000: 15×25 mm (0.59×0.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in) wide tape roll. The following mate-
rials not found in the kit can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW (TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
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SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
GW-7
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SILICONE GREASE
Used instead of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit.
Note: Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.
CONFIRM THE REPAIR
Confirm that the cause of a noise is repaired by test driving the vehicle. Operate the vehicle under the same
conditions as when the noise originally occurred. Refer to the notes on the Diagnostic Worksheet.
Generic Squeak and Rattle TroubleshootingINFOID:0000000003533020
Refer to Table of Contents for specific component removal and installation information.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. The cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel mounting pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint
These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by apply-
ing felt cloth tape or silicone spray (in hard to reach areas). Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring har-
ness.
CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the area with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.
CENTER CONSOLE
Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit
The instrument panel repair and isolation procedures also apply to the center console.
DOORS
Pay attention to the:
1. Finisher and inner panel making a slapping noise
2. Inside handle escutcheon to door finisher
3. Wiring harnesses tapping
4. Door striker out of alignment causing a popping noise on starts and stops
Tapping or moving the components or pressing on them while driving to duplicate the conditions can isolate
many of these incidents. You can usually insulate the areas with felt cloth tape or insulator foam blocks from
the NISSAN Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) to repair the noise.
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid bumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Page 2027 of 3061

GW-8
< SERVICE INFORMATION >
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINER
Noises in the sunroof/headliner area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lense loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.
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SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
GW-9
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Diagnostic WorksheetINFOID:0000000003533021
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GW-10
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SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
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WINDSHIELD GLASS
GW-11
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WINDSHIELD GLASS
Removal and InstallationINFOID:0000000003533022
REMOVAL
1. Remove inside mirror. Refer to GW-66, "Removal and Installation".
2. Partially remove the headlining (front edge). Refer to EI-37
.
3. Remove cowl top cover. Refer to EI-17
.
4. Apply a protective tape around the windshield glass to protect the painted surface from damage.
• Remove glass using piano wire or power cutting tool and an inflatable pump bag.
• If the windshield glass is to be reused, mark the body and the glass with mating marks.
WARNING:
When cutting the glass from the vehicle, always wear safety glasses and heavy gloves to help prevent
glass splinters from entering your eyes or cutting your hands.
CAUTION:
• When the windshield glass is to be reused, do not use a cutting knife or power cutting tool.
• Be careful not to scratch the glass when removing.
• Do not set or stand glass on its edge. Small chips may develop into cracks.
INSTALLATION
• Use a genuine NISSAN Urethane Adhesive Kit (if available) or equivalent and follow the instructions fur-
nished with it.
• While the urethane adhesive is curing, open a door window. This will prevent the glass from being forced out
by passenger compartment air pressure when a door is closed.
• The molding must be installed securely so that it is in position and leaves no gap.
• Inform the customer that the vehicle should remain stationary until the urethane adhesive has completely
cured (preferably 24 hours). Curing time varies with temperature and humidity.
• Install parts removed.
WARNING:
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GW-12
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WINDSHIELD GLASS
• Keep heat and open flames away as primers and adhesive are flammable.
• The materials contained in the kit are harmful if swallowed, and may irritate skin and eyes. Avoid
contact with the skin and eyes.
• Use in an open, well ventilated location. Avoid breathing the vapors. They can be harmful if inhaled.
If affected by vapor inhalation, immediately move to an area with fresh air.
• Driving the vehicle before the urethane adhesive has completely cured may affect the performance
of the windshield in case of an accident.
CAUTION:
• Do not use an adhesive which is past its usable term. Shelf life of this product is limited to six
months after the date of manufacture. Carefully adhere to the expiration or manufacture date printed
on the box.
• Keep primers and adhesive in a cool, dry place. Ideally, they should be stored in a refrigerator.
• Do not leave primers or adhesive cartridge unattended with their caps open or off.
• The vehicle should not be driven for at least 24 hours or until the urethane adhesive has completely
cured. Curing time varies depending on temperature and humidity. The curing time will increase
under lower temperature and lower humidity.
Repairing Water Leaks for Windshield
Leaks can be repaired without removing and reinstalling glass.
If water is leaking between the urethane adhesive material and body or glass, determine the extent of leakage.
This can be done by applying water to the windshield area while pushing glass outward.
To stop the leak, apply primer (if necessary) and then urethane adhesive to the leak point.
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REAR WINDOW GLASS AND MOLDING
GW-13
< SERVICE INFORMATION >
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REAR WINDOW GLASS AND MOLDING
Removal and InstallationINFOID:0000000003533023
REMOVAL
1. Remove the rear spoiler. Refer to EI-25 .
2. Disconnect the rear window defogger electrical connectors.
3. Remove the rear glass stays.
4. Remove the hinge nuts and the rear glass assembly.
5. Remove the striker and handle.
6. Remove the rear glass hinges.
1. Back door assembly 2. Weatherstrip 3. Rear glass stay RH, LH
4. Rear window hinge assembly RH,
LH5. Rear window glass handle 6. Rear window glass latch striker
7. Rear glass assembly
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