Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go
where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the
steering, and the accelerator. All three systems
have to do their work at the places where the tires
meet the road.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or
ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems
than the tires and road can provide. That means
you can lose control of your vehicle. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) on page 309.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your
vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modi cations on page 392.
Braking
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 211.
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake
pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to
bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time.
Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a
second. But that is only an average. It might be less
with one driver and as long as two or three seconds
or more with another. Age, physical condition,
alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part.
So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in
three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at
60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That
could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so
keeping enough space between your vehicle and
others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary
greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is
pavement or gravel; the condition of the road,
whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the
condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle;
and the amount of brake force applied.
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by
heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with
traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes may not have
time to cool between hard stops. The brakes
will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy
braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and
allow realistic following distances, you will
eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are
driving, brake normally but do not pump the
brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to
push down. If the engine stops, you will still have
some power brake assist. But you will use it
when you brake. Once the power assist is used
up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your
vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modi cations on page 392.Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has the Anti-Lock Brake System
(ABS), an advanced electronic braking system
that will help prevent a braking skid.
When you start your engine and begin to drive
away, ABS will check itself. You may hear a
momentary motor or clicking noise while this test
is going on. This is normal.
If there is a problem
with the ABS, this
warning light will stay
on. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System Warning Light
on page 212.
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Another feature of this system is the Traction
Control 2 (TC2) mode. TC2 should be selected for
improved traction and system performance
when the vehicle is on loose surfaces such as
deep sand or mud.
To enter this mode,
press the TC2 button
located on the
instrument panel to the
right of the steering
wheel.
TC2 only operates in the following transfer case
modes:
Four-Wheel-High Lock
Four-Wheel-Low Lock
Four-Wheel-Low Lock and Rear Axle Lock
SeeLocking Rear Axle on page 311for more
information on the rear axle lock.It will not operate in Four-Wheel-High. If the
TC2 button is pressed while in Four-Wheel High,
the light will ash for about 15 seconds and
then go out. The light should also come on brie y
when you turn the ignition key to RUN; if it
doesn’t see your dealer for service.
If you restart your engine, the system reverts to
the standard TCS mode.
The traction off light will
come on when a
Traction Control System
or Anti-Lock Brake
System problem has
been detected and the
vehicle needs service.
SeeTraction Off Light on page 212.
When the traction off light is on, adjust your
driving accordingly.
The traction control system, as delivered from the
factory, will automatically come on whenever
you start your vehicle.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your
vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modi cations on page 392for more information.
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Brake and Accelerator Operation
Techniques for Off-Road Driving
For logs, walls, rocks, severe ditches,
hills, sand, etc.
1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop. Do not
rev the engine.
2. Select the proper transmission and transfer
case gear range; usually FIRST (1) gear,
4LO LOCK for such obstacles.
3. If wheel spin is experienced, maintain steady
throttle, with your foot off the brake pedal, to
allow the Traction Control System (TCS)
to control the wheel spin. TCS will not operate
if the brakes are applied, even slightly.
4. If wheel spin cannot be controlled by the
system, fully press the brake pedal with
your left foot so all wheel spin is halted.
5. Back away from the obstacle so that a new
approach can be tried.
6. As the rst wheel crosses the obstacle, be
prepared to alternate the brake and
accelerator pedal to maintain control and
avoid tire drop-off from obstacles. Repeat this
process for the other wheels.
For mounds, washouts, loose up-hill
slopes, ditches, etc.
When wheel spin occurs as the vehicle is moving,
the driver may notice a slight shaking or
shuddering of the vehicle. This should be stopped
as soon as possible to prevent damage to
vehicle components. This is the indication that a
loss of traction is occurring on this terrain.
The operator should:
1. Reduce speed and apply the brakes.
2. Assess the terrain properly and adjust vehicle
speed and gear ranges accordingly: 4HI
position for higher speeds and 4LO LOCK for
more torque and lower speeds. Transmission
FIRST (1) gear is generally recommended.
3. Apply slight pressure to the brake when the
shaking or shuddering sensation is felt,
keeping the vehicle moving in a controlled
manner.
4. Be prepared to alternate between braking and
accelerating through the adverse terrain.
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Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want
to consider a number of things:
How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to
maintain vehicle control?
What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?
Logs? Boulders?
What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a
hidden creek bank or even a river bottom
with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then
try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and
use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help
your brakes and they will not have to do all
the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle
under control at all times.
{CAUTION:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can
cause your brakes to overheat and fade.
This could cause loss of control and a
serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly
when descending a hill and use a low
gear to keep vehicle speed under control.
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{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may
not work as well in a quick stop and may
cause pulling to one side. You could lose
control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of
water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal
lightly until your brakes work normally.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or
even going through some car washes can cause
problems, too. The water may affect your brakes.
Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow
down before you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can
build up under your tires that they can actually ride
on the water. This can happen if the road is wet
enough and you are going fast enough. When your
vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact
with the road.
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can
if your tires do not have much tread or if the
pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a
lot of water is standing on the road. If you can
see re ections from trees, telephone poles,
or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s
surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds.
There just is not a hard and fast rule about
hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down
when it is raining.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing
harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform.
The trailer towing harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL)
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake
controller and a trailer battery feed fuse may be
included with this trailering package. See
“Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in
this section.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a
standard four-way, round pin connector, an
adapter may be included. See “Four-Wire Harness
Adapter” later in this section.
Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness
Notice:If your vehicle has factory or
dealer-installed HUMMER off-road lamps, the
place where an electric trailer brake connection
must be made is already in use. Do not attempt
to double-up or “piggyback” the connection,
because this could cause a failure or damage to
your vehicle, the electric trailer brake system,
or both. If you want to connect a trailer with
electric brakes to your vehicle, see your dealer
to disconnect the off-road lamps. Also, read
Add-On Electrical Equipment on page 503for
more information.
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