2007 GMC SAVANA trailer

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers
on the Certification label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 259. Then be sure you don’t go over
the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR,
including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use
a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t
go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you’ll need
the right hitch.
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the
trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you
have ample room when turning to avoid contact
between the trailer and the bumper.
(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size. This equipment
is very important for proper vehicle loading and
good handling when you’re driving. You should
always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh
more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you’re using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not
need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed,
you may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle as well as dirt and water.
See “Carbon Monoxide” underEngine Exhaust
on page 132.Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the
tongue from contacting the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®,
your trailer brake system cannot tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can
cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control setting for
maximum air because it only recirculates
the air inside your vehicle. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added
weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that
the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal
longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal
flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash,
telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change
lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you
turn your engine off immediately after towing at high
altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may
show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid
this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on
level ground) with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on page 309.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the
curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing
uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package
includes a seven-wire harness assembly at
the rear of the vehicle and a four-wire
harness assembly under the left hand side
of the instrument panel. The seven-wire
harness assembly is taped together and
located in a frame pocket at the driver side
rear left corner of the frame.The seven-wire harness includes a 30-amp feed
wire. Both harnesses come without connectors and
should be wired by a qualified electrical technician.
The technician can use the following color code
chart when connecting the wiring harness to
your trailer and trailer brake controller.
Seven-Wire Harness
•Light Green: Back-up lamps
•Brown: Parking lamps
•Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal
•Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes
•Red/Black Stripe: Trailer accessory
•White (heavy gage): Ground wire
Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)
•Black: Ground
•Red/White Stripe: Fused Battery
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed
•Light Blue: Fused Stoplamp/CHMSL
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How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at the dealership
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can
damage your transmission. Too much can
mean that some of the uid could come out
and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system
parts, starting a re. Too little uid could
cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to
get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to
200°F (82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are
above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C),
drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine
temperature gage moves and then remains steady
for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the
engine run at idle for five minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder
than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold
check, you must check the fluid hot before adding
fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more
accurate reading of the fluid level.
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