
Installing the axle shafts
1. Remove the covers from the wheel ends
2. Shift the differential lock to the unlocked position (disengaged)
position.
3. Install the axle shafts
•Place the gaskets on the wheel hub studs.
•Push the right-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end and
housing until the shaft stops against the differential shift collar.
•Push down and in on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until
the splines of the shaft and shift collar are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft further into the housing until the shaft stops
against the differential side gear.
•Push down on the axle shaft flange and rotate the shaft until the
splines of the shaft and side gear are engaged.
•Push the axle shaft completely into the housing until the axle shaft
flange and the gasket are flush against the wheel hub.
•Install the left-hand axle shaft and gasket into the wheel end.
4. If tapered dowels are required, install them at each stud and into the
flange of the axle shaft. Use a punch or drift and hammer, if needed.
5. Install the fasteners and tighten to correct torque value. Refer to the
Service Manual.
Towing the vehicle with the rear wheels suspended
Note:To avoid damage to the cab roof or air deflector when towing the
vehicle backward (rear wheels suspended) the air deflector must be
removed.
Whenever possible, it is preferable to tow a disabled vehicle from the
rear by raising the rear of the chassis. When towing a vehicle with the
rear of the chassis suspended the front wheels must be locked in the
straight-ahead position.
Vehicles equipped with a manual-shift transmission must have at least
1.0 pint (0.5L) of transmission fluid drained from the case. This will
prevent the transmission fluid from entering the clutch housing and fluid
saturating the clutch discs. Make sure that the transmission fluid is
replaced before the vehicle is returned to service.
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•Remove particles such as bird droppings, tree sap, insect deposits, tar
spots, road salt and industrial fallout before repairing paint chips.
•Always read the instructions before using the products.
ALUMINUM WHEELS AND COVERS
•Clean with Motorcraft Wheel and Tire Cleaner (ZC-37–A), which is
available from your dealer.
•Never apply any cleaning chemical to hot or warm wheel rims or
covers.
•Some automatic car washes may cause damage to the finish on your
wheel rims or covers. Chemical-strength cleaners, or cleaning
chemicals, in combination with brush agitation to remove brake dust
and dirt, could wear away the clearcoat finish over time.
•Do not use hydrofluoric acid-based or high caustic-based wheel
cleaners, steel wool, fuels or strong household detergent.
•To remove tar and grease, use Motorcraft Bug and Tar Remover
(ZC-42), available from your dealer.
ENGINE
Engines are more efficient when they are clean because grease and dirt
buildup keep the engine warmer than normal. When washing:
•Take care when using a power washer to clean the engine. The
high-pressure fluid could penetrate the sealed parts and cause
damage.
Note:To prevent damage to the engine control module, never
spray-wash it directly. Never spray any connector.
•Do not spray a hot engine with cold water to avoid cracking the
engine block or other engine components.
•Spray Motorcraft Engine Shampoo and Degreaser (ZC-20) on all parts
that require cleaning and pressure rinse clean.
•Never wash or rinse the engine while it is running; water in the
running engine may cause internal damage.
PLASTIC (NON-PAINTED) EXTERIOR PARTS
Use only approved products to clean plastic parts. These products are
available from your dealer.
•For routine cleaning, use Motorcraft Detail Wash (ZC-3–A).
•If tar or grease spots are present, use Motorcraft Bug and Tar
Remover (ZC-42).
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Check to make sure that the axle mounting U-bolt nuts, attaching or
mounting bolts and nuts are securely tightened. Regularly check front
axle for damage, binding, worn parts and adequate lubrication.
At regular intervals, or during other scheduled maintenance, (tire
rotation/service, wheel bearing service, alignment, etc.) the kingpins
should be checked for excessive wear. Refer to the service manual for
proper procedures.
Toe-in setting - general inspection
Inspecting steer axle tires in the first 3,000–10,000 service miles
(4,800–16,000 service km) will generally show if tires are wearing
normally.
Rapid outside shoulder wear on both tires indicates too much toe-in.
Rapid inside shoulder wear on both tires indicates too much toe-out. In
P&D-type service, left-to-right steer tire tread life differentials up to 40%
can be observed depending on routes and other variables.
Follow the tire manufacturer’s recommended cold inflation pressure for
the tire size, load range (ply rating) and steer axle loading typical for
their operation (each steer axle tire will equal
1 2steer axle loading).
Special applications may warrant a setting based on past experience with
the type of tire operating loads and conditions. Radial tires are more
sensitive to toe-in setting than bias ply tires. While not insensitive to
vehicle alignment, fine tuning school bus alignment to line-haul truck
standards will not drastically improve tire tread life.
It is essential that correct toe-in and tire pressure be maintained for
optimum tire wear.
Rear axle - general inspection
Check to make sure that the axle mounting U-bolts, attaching or
mounting bolts and nuts are securely tightened. Refer toU-bolt nut
torquein this chapter. Regularly check the rear axle for damaged,
binding or worn parts.
NoSpin Detroit Locker positive locking differential
Vehicles equipped with this type differential have the operator’s manual
supplied with the vehicle. Refer to this manual for maintenance checks.
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Do not manually adjust the automatic slack adjusters to correct
excessive pushrod stroke as it may result in reduced brake
effectiveness and a vehicle crash. Excessive pushrod stroke indicates
that a problem exists with the automatic adjuster, with the installation
of the adjuster, or with foundation brake components that manual
adjustment will not remedy. Seek service from a qualified facility for
excessive pushrod stroke.
Inspect the brake lining every maintenance interval. When brake lining or
blocks are worn to within 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of rivets, brake lining must
be replaced. This inspection or adjustment should only be performed by
a qualified technician and must be in accordance with instructions
provided by the service manual.
Do not back off or disconnect the front brakes so that they are less
effective, letting the rear brakes do all the stopping of the vehicle. Do
not overlook the brakes on the trailer, either. Brake condition on the
trailer is just as important as the tractor. Proper brake balance on trucks
and tractor-trailers is essential for effective braking.
Once a year, the entire brake system must be inspected. Check the
following:
• Any rubber as it may deteriorate whenever used. Rubber brake
components should be inspected by a qualified technician and
replaced as necessary. Replacement intervals vary according to the
severity and length of vehicle service.
• Condition of brake drums, brake chambers and slack adjusters.
• System for air leaks.
• Hose or pipes for rust, damage and deterioration.
• Operation of service and parking brakes.
Some parts such as air brake chamber diaphragm, air compressor and air
cleaner should be inspected periodically and replaced if considered
unserviceable.
Air brakes - air dryer
Performance of desiccant or after-cooler type air dryers is dependent on
climatic conditions in which your vehicle is operating. Maintenance
schedules must be established for each specific operation.
The use of an air dryer on a vehicle does not eliminate the need to
periodically drain the air reservoirs.
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•Check that pitman arm (steering arm at steering gear) mounting is
tight and locked. Check system for leaks or hose chafing. Repair at
once.
• Maintain proper steering gear and power steering pump lubricant
levels.
• Regularly inspect steering column joint bolts and steering linkage,
particularly for body-to-chassis clearance.
Note: Have any steering problems corrected at once by a qualified
service technician.
Failure to maintain the steering system in proper condition can
cause reduced steering ability resulting in property damage,
personal injury or death.
Tightening steering column joint bolts
As a good maintenance practice, it is recommended that steering column
joint bolts be checked for tightness every 60,000 miles (96,000 km) or
annually, whichever occurs first. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Power steering
Whenever the power steering’s hydraulic system has been drained and
refilled for any reason, air must be bled from the system before returning
the vehicle to service. Failure to properly bleed the hydraulic system can
result in degradation of power system performance.
Consult your dealer who is aware of the proper procedures for filling and
bleeding the system.
OPENING THE HOOD
The hood and fenders are held in position by a latch located on each
fender.
The parking brake must be fully set before opening the hood or
possible personal injury may occur.
To reduce the risk of the possibility of personal injury, never
stand beneath the hood when it is being raised or lowered.
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4. Tilt the hood forward until
stopped by the retaining cables.
To lower the hood:
1. Push the hood rearward at the top center of the hood above the grille
until closed.
2. Engage the latch on each fender.
3. Push down on the bottom of each latch until locked.
WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID
The reservoir capacity is 4.0 quarts
(3.8L); use windshield washer fluid
that meets the Ford specification
listed. Refer toLubricant
specifications in this chapter.
Inspect the fluid level in the washer
reservoir when insufficient fluid is
sprayed.
State or local regulations on volatile
organic compounds may restrict the
use of methanol, a common windshield washer antifreeze additive.
Washer fluids containing non-methanol antifreeze agents should be used
only if they provide cold weather protection without damaging the
vehicle’s paint finish, wiper blades or washer system.
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Do not put engine coolant in the washer fluid reservoir. Engine
coolant can severely reduce visibility if sprayed on the
windshield.
CHANGING THE WIPER BLADES
To replace the wiper blades:
1. Pull the wiper arm away from the
windshield and lock into the service
position.
2. Turn the blade at an angle from
the wiper arm. Push the lock pin
manually to release the blade and
pull the wiper blade down toward
the windshield to remove it from the
arm.
3. Attach the new wiper to the
wiper arm and press it into place
until a click is heard.
ENGINE OIL
Checking the engine oil
Refer to the Scheduled Maintenance Guide chapter for the appropriate
intervals for checking the engine oil. Check the engine oil level
consistently and accurately.
If your vehicle is equipped with a Cummins or Caterpillar engine,
refer to the appropriate engine operator’s manual for information on the
engine oil.
If your vehicle is equipped with the 6.0L Power Stroke engine,
perform the following procedure:
1. Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating
temperature (the engine coolant temperature gauge indicator will be
near the center of the normal area between H and C).
2. Park the vehicle on level ground.
3. Set the parking brake and shift into N (Neutral) (automatic
transmission) or 1 (First) (manual transmission).
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•Do not add/mix extended life coolants such as Motorcraft
Specialty Orange Engine Coolant, VC-3 (U.S.) or CXC-209
(Canada), meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44–D, with the
factory-fill coolant, Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant meeting
Ford Specification WSS-M97B51–A.Mixing Motorcraft Specialty
Orange Engine Coolant or any equivalent extended life engine coolant
with this factory-fill coolant can result in degraded corrosion
protection.
•A large amount of water without engine coolant may be added, in case
of emergency, to reach a vehicle service location. In this instance, the
cooling system must be drained and refilled with a 50/50 mixture of
engine coolant and distilled water as soon as possible. Water alone
(without engine coolant) can cause engine damage from corrosion,
overheating or freezing.
•Do not use alcohol, methanol or brine or any engine coolants
mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze (coolant).Alcohol
and other liquids can cause engine damage from overheating or
freezing.
•Do not add extra inhibitors or additives to the coolant.These
can be harmful and compromise the corrosion protection of the engine
coolant.
•Do not mix with recycled coolant unless from a Ford-approved
recycling process (seeUse of Recycled Engine Coolantsection).
To reduce the risk of personal injury, make sure the engine is
cool before unscrewing the coolant pressure relief cap. The
cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out
forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly.
1. Before you begin, turn the engine off and let it cool.
2. When the engine is cool, wrap a thick cloth around the coolant
pressure relief cap on the coolant reservoir (an opaque plastic bottle).
Slowly turn cap counterclockwise until pressure begins to release.
3. Step back while the pressure releases.
4. When you are sure that all the pressure has been released, use the
cloth to turn it counterclockwise and remove the cap.
5. Fill the coolant reservoir slowly with the proper coolant mixture (see
above). If you removed the radiator cap in an overflow system, fill the
radiator until the coolant is visible and radiator is almost full.
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