2007 CHEVROLET IMPALA tires

Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as highway
hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the
wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of
awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road
with the same scenery, along with the hum of the
tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the
rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make
you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does,
your vehicle can leave the road in less than a
second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis?
First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with
a comfortably cool interior.
Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead
and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors
and your instruments frequently.
If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,
service, or parking area and take a nap, get
some exercise, or both. For safety, treat
drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different
from driving in at or rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that
can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check
all uid levels and also the brakes, tires,
cooling system, and transaxle. These parts
can work hard on mountain roads.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in the trunk.
Also seeTires on page 351.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag,
some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a
ashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reective
warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under
severe conditions, include a small bag of sand,
a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires
meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery
situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip,
and will need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.
But wet ice can be even more trouble because itmay offer the least traction of all. You can get wet
ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and
freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on
wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed,
blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.
If your vehicle has the Traction Control System
(TCS), it will improve your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle
has a traction system you will want to slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions.
Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the
TCS off, such as when driving through deep snow
and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at
lower speeds. SeeTraction Control System (TCS)
on page 256.
If your vehicle does not have TCS, accelerate
gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you
accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless your vehicle has the Anti-Lock Brake
System (ABS), you will want to brake very gently,
too. If your vehicle does have ABS, seeAnti-Lock
Brake System (ABS) on page 253. ABS improves
your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road.
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You will need a well-charged battery to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start
the engine again and repeat this only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as
little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as
you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of
the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you
will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or
others could be injured. And, the
transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment re or other damage. When
you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transaxle back and forth, you can destroy
the transaxle. SeeRocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out on page 277.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 372.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar
(B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will nd
the label attached below the door lock post
(striker). The Tire and Loading Information label
lists the number of occupant seating positions (A),
and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in
kilograms and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight
includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and
all nonfactory-installed options.The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the
tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire ination pressures (D). For
more information on tires and ination, seeTires on
page 351andInation - Tire Pressure on page 359.
There is also important loading information on the
Certication label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see
“Certication Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the statement “The combined
weight of occupants and cargo should never
exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your
vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
Label Example
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But trailering is different than just driving your
vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in
handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful,
safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to
be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety
rules. Many of these are important for your safety
and that of your passengers. So please read
this section carefully before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires
are forced to work harder against the drag of the
added weight. The engine is required to operate
at relatively higher speeds and under greater
loads, generating extra heat. What’s more,
the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance,
increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be
state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a
hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle
is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts
could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a
trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or no more than
55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your
vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do
with weight:
the weight of the trailer
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers
on the Tire and Loading Information label, See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 277. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your
vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right
hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not
intended for hitches. Do not attach rental
hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it.
Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not
attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal
them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your
exhaust can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 124. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between
your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the
tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to
read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try
to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you
do, both brake systems won’t work well, or
at all.
Even if your vehicle doesn’t have anti-lock
brakes, don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake
system if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid
from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it
does, both braking systems won’t work well.
You could even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the
trailer brake system must not be used with
your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make
the brake uid tap at the upper rear master
cylinder port. But don’t use copper tubing
for this. If you do, it will bend and break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and
platform (and attachments), safety chains,
electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start
your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply
the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
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