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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly
damage your engine. Never drive through water
that is slightly lower than the underbody of your
vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or
standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water
crossing, your vehicle can be carried away.
As little as six inches of owing water
can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warning
signs, and otherwise be very cautious
about trying to drive through owing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not
just your parking lamps — to help make
you more visible to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some extra
following distance. And be especially
careful when you pass another vehicle.
Allow yourself more clear room ahead,
and be prepared to have your view
restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 382.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And
check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have the liftgate open and you pull
a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO. It can
cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 127. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the liftgate closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control setting for
maximum air because it only recirculates
the air inside your vehicle. SeeClimate
Control System on page 165.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in
mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good
deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your
vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that
the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you do the following:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of
the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and
store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transaxle uid, engine oil, belts, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help
you nd them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a
good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
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GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear
axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 315.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of
an asymmetrical tire, that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum In ation Pressure:The maximum
air pressure to which a cold tire may be in ated.
The maximum air pressure is molded onto the
sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible in ation pressure
for that tire.Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 315.
Occupant Distribution:Designated seating
positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that
faces outward when mounted on a vehicle.
The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears
white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand,
and/or model name molding that is higher
or deeper than the same moldings on the other
sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
passenger cars and some light duty trucks and
multipurpose vehicles.
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