2006 INFINITI M35 lock

BL-10
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
DUPLICATE THE NOISE AND TEST DRIVE
If possible, drive the vehicle with the customer until the noise is duplicated. Note any additional information on
the Diagnostic Worksheet regarding the conditions or location of the noise. This information can be used to
duplicate the same conditions when you confirm the repair.
If the noise can be duplicated easily during the test drive, to help identify the source of the noise, try to dupli-
cate the noise with the vehicle stopped by doing one or all of the following:
1) Close a door.
2) Tap or push/pull around the area where the noise appears to be coming from.
3) Rev the engine.
4) Use a floor jack to recreate vehicle “twist”.
5) At idle, apply engine load (electrical load, half-clutch on M/T model, drive position on A/T model).
6) Raise the vehicle on a hoist and hit a tire with a rubber hammer.
Drive the vehicle and attempt to duplicate the conditions the customer states exist when the noise occurs.
If it is difficult to duplicate the noise, drive the vehicle slowly on an undulating or rough road to stress the
vehicle body.
CHECK RELATED SERVICE BULLETINS
After verifying the customer concern or symptom, check ASIST for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related
to that concern or symptom.
If a TSB relates to the symptom, follow the procedure to repair the noise.
LOCATE THE NOISE AND IDENTIFY THE ROOT CAUSE
1. Narrow down the noise to a general area. To help pinpoint the source of the noise, use a listening tool
(Chassis Ear: J-39570, Engine Ear and mechanics stethoscope).
2. Narrow down the noise to a more specific area and identify the cause of the noise by:
removing the components in the area that you suspect the noise is coming from.
Do not use too much force when removing clips and fasteners, otherwise clips and fastener can be broken
or lost during the repair, resulting in the creation of new noise.
tapping or pushing/pulling the component that you suspect is causing the noise.
Do not tap or push/pull the component with excessive force, otherwise the noise will be eliminated only
temporarily.
feeling for a vibration with your hand by touching the component(s) that you suspect is (are) causing the
noise.
placing a piece of paper between components that you suspect are causing the noise.
looking for loose components and contact marks.
Refer to BL-11, "
Generic Squeak and Rattle Troubleshooting" .
REPAIR THE CAUSE
If the cause is a loose component, tighten the component securely.
If the cause is insufficient clearance between components:
–separate components by repositioning or loosening and retightening the component, if possible.
–insulate components with a suitable insulator such as urethane pads, foam blocks, felt cloth tape or ure-
thane tape. A Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) is available through your authorized Nissan Parts
Department.
CAUTION:
Do not use excessive force as many components are constructed of plastic and may be damaged.
NOTE:
Always check with the Parts Department for the latest parts information.
The following materials are contained in the Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980). Each item can be
ordered separately as needed.
URETHANE PADS [1.5 mm (0.059 in) thick]
Insulates connectors, harness, etc.
76268-9E005: 100
135 mm (3.945.31 in)/76884-71L01: 6085 mm (2.363.35 in)/76884-
71L02: 15
25 mm (0.590.98 in)
INSULATOR (Foam blocks)
Insulates components from contact. Can be used to fill space behind a panel.
73982-9E000: 45 mm (1.77 in) thick, 50
50 mm (1.971.97 in)/73982-
50Y00: 10 mm (0.39 in) thick, 50
50 mm (1.971.97 in)

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
INSULATOR (Light foam block)
80845-71L00: 30 mm (1.18 in) thick, 30
50 mm (1.181.97 in)
FELT CLOTHTAPE
Used to insulate where movement does not occur. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
68370-4B000: 15
25 mm (0.590.98 in) pad/68239-13E00: 5 mm (0.20 in) wide tape roll
The following materials, not found in the kit, can also be used to repair squeaks and rattles.
UHMW (TEFLON) TAPE
Insulates where slight movement is present. Ideal for instrument panel applications.
SILICONE GREASE
Used in place of UHMW tape that will be visible or not fit. Will only last a few months.
SILICONE SPRAY
Use when grease cannot be applied.
DUCT TAPE
Use to eliminate movement.
CONFIRM THE REPAIR
Confirm that the cause of a noise is repaired by test driving the vehicle. Operate the vehicle under the same
conditions as when the noise originally occurred. Refer to the notes on the Diagnostic Worksheet.
Generic Squeak and Rattle TroubleshootingNIS001WH
Refer to Table of Contents for specific component removal and installation information.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Most incidents are caused by contact and movement between:
1. The cluster lid A and instrument panel
2. Acrylic lens and combination meter housing
3. Instrument panel to front pillar garnish
4. Instrument panel to windshield
5. Instrument panel mounting pins
6. Wiring harnesses behind the combination meter
7. A/C defroster duct and duct joint
These incidents can usually be located by tapping or moving the components to duplicate the noise or by
pressing on the components while driving to stop the noise. Most of these incidents can be repaired by apply-
ing felt cloth tape or silicon spray (in hard to reach areas). Urethane pads can be used to insulate wiring har-
ness.
CAUTION:
Do not use silicone spray to isolate a squeak or rattle. If you saturate the area with silicone, you will
not be able to recheck the repair.
CENTER CONSOLE
Components to pay attention to include:
1. Shifter assembly cover to finisher
2. A/C control unit and cluster lid C
3. Wiring harnesses behind audio and A/C control unit
The instrument panel repair and isolation procedures also apply to the center console.
DOORS
Pay attention to the:
1. Finisher and inner panel making a slapping noise
2. Inside handle escutcheon to door finisher
3. Wiring harnesses tapping
4. Door striker out of alignment causing a popping noise on starts and stops
Tapping or moving the components or pressing on them while driving to duplicate the conditions can isolate
many of these incidents. You can usually insulate the areas with felt cloth tape or insulator foam blocks from
the Nissan Squeak and Rattle Kit (J-43980) to repair the noise.

BL-12
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

BL-16
HOOD
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
1. Check the clearance and the surface height between the hood and each part by visual and tactile feeling.
(Fitting standard dimension in the table below should be satisfied.)
* Unit: mm (in)
2. In case out of specification, adjust them according to the procedures shown below.
3. Remove the hood lock and adjust the height by rotating the
bumper rubber until the hood becomes 1 to1.5 mm (0.04 to
0.059 in) lower than the fender.
4. Temporarily tighten the hood lock, and position by engaging it with the hood striker. Check the lock and
striker for looseness and adjust the clearance and evenness by the striker to satisfy the specification.
5. Adjust A and B shown in the figure to the following value with hood's own weight by dropping it from
approx. 200 mm (7.87 in) height or the hood pressed lightly (approx. 29 N (3 kg)).
6. After adjustment tighten lock bolts to the specified torque.
1. Hood hinge 2. Hood lock assembly 3. Hood assembly
4. Hood top molding 5. Bumper fascia assembly 6. Headlamp
7. Front fender
Parts Standard Parallelism (MAX)Right/left clearance
(MAX)
A – Aa Clearance 0.5 - 1.2 (0.02 -0.05) 1.0 (0.04) —
e Surface height 0.5 - 2.5 (0.02 - 0.10) 1.5 (0.06) —
B – Bb Clearance 1.5 - 5.5 (0.06 - 0.22) — 2.5 (0.01)
f Surface height -1.0 - 3.0 (-0.04 - 0.12) — 2.0 (0.08)
C – Cc Clearance 1.5 - 5.5 (0.06 - 0.22) — 2.0 (0.08)
g Surface height -1.0 - 3.0 (-0.40 - 0.12) 2.0 (0.08) 2.0 (0.08)
D – Dd Clearance 2.0 - 5.0 (0.08 - 0.20) 1.0 (0.04) 1.5 (0.06)
h Surface height -1.0 - 1.0 (-0.04 - 0.04) 1.0 (0.04) 1.5 (0.06)
PIIB3872J
1. Hood striker 2. Primary latch 3. Secondary striker
4. Secondary latch
A : 20 mm (0.79 in)
B : 6.8 mm (0.27 in)
PIIB5794E

HOOD
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
Removal and Installation of Hood AssemblyNIS001WK
REMOVAL
1. Support the hood lock assembly with a proper material to pre-
vent it from falling.
WAR NING :
Body injury may occur if no supporting rod is holding the
hood open when removing the hood stay.
2. Remove stud balls on the hood stays at the hood side.
3. Remove the hinge mounting nuts on the hood to remove the
hood assembly.
CAUTION:
Operate with two workers, because of its heavy weight.
1. Hood stay 2. Hood hinge 3. Hood assembly
4. Hood insulator 5. Hood front sealing rubber
PIIB5795E
PIIB5797E
PIIB5796E

BL-18
HOOD
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
INSTALLETION
Install in the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION:
Before installing hood hinge, apply anticorrosive agent onto the mounting surface of the vehicle
body.
After installing, perform hood fitting adjustment. Refer to BL-15, "Fitting Adjustment" .
Removal and Installation of Hood Lock ControlNIS001WL
REMOVAL
1. Remove the front grill. Refer to EI-16, "FRONT GRILLE" .
2. Remove the fender protector. Refer to EI-20, "
FENDER PROTECTOR" .
3. Disconnect hood lock switch harness connector.
4. Remove the hood lock assembly mounting bolts.
1. Hood lock cable 2. Hood lock assembly 3. Hood ledge reinforcement
4. Clip
PIIB5798E
PIIB3876J
PIIB5799E

HOOD
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
5. Disconnect the hood lock cable from the hood lock, and clip it from the hood ledge.
6. Remove the mounting screws with power tool, and remove the hood opener.
7. Remove the grommet on the dash board, and pull the hood lock cable toward the passenger compart-
ment.
CAUTION:
While pulling, be careful not to damage (peeling) the outside of the hood lock cable.
INSTALLATION
1. Pull the hood lock cable through the panel hole to the engine compartment.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to bend the cable too much, keeping the
radius 100 mm (3.94 in) or more.
2. Check that the cable is not offset from the positioning grommet,
and push the grommet into the panel hole securely.
3. Apply the sealant to the grommet (at * mark) properly.
4. Install while pulling hood lock cable.
5. Install the hood lock cable securely to the lock.
6. Install hood lock assembly.
CAUTION:
After installing, hood fitting adjustment. Refer to BL-15,
"Fitting Adjustment" .
After installing, the check the hood lock control inspec-
tion Refer to BL-20, "
Hood Lock Control Inspection" .
PIIB5800E
PIIB5801E
PIIB5802E

BL-20
HOOD
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
Hood Lock Control InspectionNIS001WM
CAUTION:
If the hood lock cable is bent or deformed, replace it.
1. Check that the secondary latch is properly engaged with the secondary striker (B: 6.8 mm (0.268 in)
shown in the figure) with hood's own weight.
2. While operating the hood opener, carefully check that the front end of the hood is raised by approx. 20
mm (0.79 in). Also check that the hood opener returns to the original position.
3. Check that the hood opener operating is 294 N (30 kg) or below.
4. Install as static closing face of hood is 392 – 441 Nꞏm (35– 44 kg-m).
5. Check the hood lock lubrication condition. If necessary, apply
“body grease” to the points shown in the figure.
1. Hood striker 2. Primary latch 3. Secondary striker
4. Secondary latch
PIIB5794E
PIIB5803E