Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if
the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads
and/or hilly conditions.
If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a
trailer, it is better not to use the highest gear.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with
the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. For manual
transmissions, let the engine run while parked,
preferably on level ground, with the transmission out of
gear and the parking brake applied, for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into
gear for a manual transmission. Turn your wheels
into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if
facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic
transmission or into gear for a manual transmission.
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-67
A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine
Coolant on page 5-24.
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-34.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-29.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-40.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-97.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-23.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13