2006 HUMMER H2 brake

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow
on the road to make a mirrored surface — and
slow down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
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Brake and Accelerator Operation
Techniques for Off-Road Driving
For logs, walls, rocks, severe ditches,
hills, sand, etc.
1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop. Do not rev
the engine.
2. Select the proper transmission and transfer case
gear range; usually FIRST (1) gear, 4LO LOCK for
such obstacles.
3. If wheel spin is experienced, maintain steady
throttle, with your foot off the brake pedal, to
allow the Traction Control System (TCS) to control
the wheel spin. TCS will not operate if the brakes
are applied, even slightly.
4. If wheel spin cannot be controlled by the system,
fully press the brake pedal with your left foot so all
wheel spin is halted.
5. Back away from the obstacle so that a new
approach can be tried.
6. As the rst wheel crosses the obstacle, be prepared
to alternate the brake and accelerator pedal to
maintain control and avoid tire drop-off from
obstacles. Repeat this process for the other wheels.
For mounds, washouts, loose up-hill
slopes, ditches, etc.
When wheel spin occurs as the vehicle is moving, the
driver may notice a slight shaking or shuddering of
the vehicle. This should be stopped as soon as possible
to prevent damage to vehicle components. This is the
indication that a loss of traction is occurring on this
terrain. The operator should:
1. Reduce speed and apply the brakes.
2. Assess the terrain properly and adjust vehicle
speed and gear ranges accordingly: 4HI position
for higher speeds and 4LO LOCK for more torque
and lower speeds. Transmission FIRST (1) gear
is generally recommended.
3. Apply slight pressure to the brake when the shaking
or shuddering sensation is felt, keeping the vehicle
moving in a controlled manner.
4. Be prepared to alternate between braking and
accelerating through the adverse terrain.
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Crossing Obstacles
Approach Angle — a Key to Mobility
If you encounter a large dip in the terrain, do not enter
straight on; enter at an angle — 15° minimum
approach (A), 75° maximum approach angle (B). For
very large dips, ditches or small washes, coast in, using
the engine as a brake (transmission and transfer
case lowest gears). Then, use the low ranges in the
transmission and transfer case to power out.
Roll Your Tires Over Large Rocks
Do not straddle large
rocks; drive over them,
letting the tire cover
the rock. The tread of the
tire is thicker and
tougher than the sidewall
of the tire and is more
resilient to impact
than underbody
components.
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Log Crossing
Using the proper technique, your vehicle will cross logs
up to 10 inches (25.4 cm) in diameter. Approach the
log at approximately a 15° angle (A) with the
transmission in FIRST (1) and the transfer case in 4LO
LOCK and “walk” your vehicle over, one tire at a
time. It may be necessary to modulate your brake pedal
and accelerator to avoid spin-out. Ease the vehicle
down from the log with your brake.
Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment
and an understanding of what your vehicle can and
cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be
driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them, you cannot control your speed. If
you drive across them, you will roll over. You
could be seriously injured or killed. If you have
any doubt about the steepness, do not drive
the hill.
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Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or
is about to stall, and I cannot make it up
the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and
keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the
parking brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you will need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in
REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It is
best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill:
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain
forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go
out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you
cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight
down the hill.
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Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just cannot do it. What should
I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would
take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle.
Leave it in some gear.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P). This is because
the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case
overrides the transmission. You or someone
else could be injured. If you are going to leave
your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift
the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift
the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the
transfer case in the 4 HI, 4 HI Lock, or 4 LO
Lock position.
Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to
consider a number of things:
How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?
Boulders?
What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to
keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a
low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes
and they will not have to do all the work. Descend
slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
{CAUTION:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can
cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This
could cause loss of control and a serious
accident. Apply the brakes lightly when
descending a hill and use a low gear to keep
vehicle speed under control.
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Q:Are there some things I should not do when
driving down a hill?
A:Yes! These are important because if you ignore
them you could lose control and have a serious
accident:
When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too
steep to drive down may be too steep to drive
across. You could roll over if you do not drive
straight down.
Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.”
Your brakes will have to do all the work and
could overheat and fade.
Q:Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A:It is much more likely to happen going uphill. But if
it happens going downhill, here is what to do:
1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.
Apply the parking brake.
2. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart
the engine.
3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.
4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or
exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and
other vehicle parts. Your vehicle is capable of depths up
to 20 inches. Know how to judge whether the water is
deeper than this before proceeding into it.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your
vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown. If it is only shallow
water, it can still wash away the ground from
under your tires, and you could lose traction
and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through
rushing water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-39for
more information on driving through water.
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