2006 GMC CANYON trailer

Vehicle* Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR**
Automatic Transmission,
3.5L Engine4.10 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs (4 082 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8L Engine4.10 1,900 lbs (861 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5L Engine3.42 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5L Engine3.73 3,300 lbs (1 497 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5L Engine4.10 3,300 lbs (1 497 kg) 7,500 lbs (3 402 kg)
Vehicle* Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR**
4WD Crew Cab
Automatic Transmission,
2.8L Engine3.73 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
2.8L Engine4.10 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) 7,000 lbs (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5L Engine3.42 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5L Engine3.73 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs (4 082 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5L Engine4.10 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs (4 082 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8L Engine4.10 1,700 lbs (771 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg)
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer
including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.
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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in
your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information
Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of
your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes
the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in
it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in
your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle
can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your
vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-44for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a
maximum of 500 lbs (226 kg) with a weight carrying hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle.
This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight
on the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some of the items around in
the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry
tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle
to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or
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the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect
of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity
more than the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg);
2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs
(3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a
GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of
trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight
is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear
axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as
1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be
850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg),
adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs
(1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for
RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to
8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with some
of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger
and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and
gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg)
to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear
axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now
weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.
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The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only
way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these
ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
above the door latch, or seeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-44. Then be sure you don’t go over
the GVWR limit for your vehicle, including the weight of
the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and
Weight Carrying Hitches
You can use your step bumper hitch for trailers up to
2,000 lbs (907 kg) total weight, and 200 lbs (90 kg)
tongue weight.
Notice:If you use a step-bumper hitch, your
bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make
sure you have ample room when turning to avoid
contact between the trailer and the bumper.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. For trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching points
on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or
hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
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Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal asher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or
the manual transmission out of gear and the parking
brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning,
seeEngine Overheating on page 5-28.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels
away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn
your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or
REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. See
Parking Brake on page 2-28for more information.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.
SeeFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-24for more
information.
6. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more on this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission
uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you nd
them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to
review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle may be equipped with a four-pin trailer
towing harness. This harness has a four-pin trailer
connector that is attached to a bracket on the hitch
platform. The four-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps/Park lamps
White: Ground
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch load from the CWR for your
vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached,
so that you won’t go over the GVWR or the GAWR.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-56
later in this section.
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