A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. SeeCooling
System on page 5-30andCoolant Surge Tank
Pressure Cap on page 5-28.
C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped).
SeeEngine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick. See “Checking the
Fluid Level” underAutomatic Transmission Fluid
on page 5-22.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Engine Cooling Fan. SeeCooling System on
page 5-30.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). SeeJump
Starting on page 5-42.
I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-42.
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-36.
K. Brake Master Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-38.
L. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-113.
M. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-41.N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-37.
Engine Oil
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the
instrument cluster, it means you need to check
your engine oil level right away.
For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under
DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is
an added reminder.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15
4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan,
when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and
the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully
engages, so you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required
and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may hear
the fans spinning at low speed during most everyday
driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is required.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or
high outside temperatures, or if you are operating your
air conditioning system, the fans may change to
high speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system
is functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
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