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Low Washer Fluid Warning Light
This light will come on
when your vehicle is low
on windshield washer fluid.
For more information, seeWindshield Washer Fluid on
page 5-48.
Check Gages Warning Light
This light will come on as
you’re starting the engine,
just as a check.
If this light comes on and stays on while you are driving.
It means that either your engine coolant temperature
gage or your engine oil pressure gage may be showing
a reading in the warning zone.
When the check gages light comes on, you will also
hear a warning tone. The tone and the light will
stay activated until the problem is corrected.
This light may also come on if your vehicle is equipped
with the optional automatic engine shutdown system
and engine shutdown has begun. SeeEngine Alarm and
Automatic ShutdownunderStarting the Diesel Engine
on page 2-15.
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Water in Fuel Warning Light
If your vehicle has the 6.6L
or 7.8L DURAMAX®diesel
engine, this light will
come on to warn you that
there is water in the
fuel system.
For more information on how this light works, seeWater
in Fuel on page 5-10.
Air Filter Restriction Indicator
If your vehicle has this
feature, the gage is
located above the
switchbank in the center of
the instrument panel. It
monitors the engine
air filter.
As the filter gets dirty, the yellow indicator will begin to
rise. When it reaches 25 inches of vacuum on the
scale, the filter should be replaced.
After replacing the filter, reset the gage by pressing in
the yellow reset button at the bottom of the gage.
If you have a Caterpillar
®diesel engine, also see your
Caterpillar®Operation & Maintenance Manual.
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Air Pressure Gage
If your vehicle has air
brakes, the air pressure
gage is located above the
switchbank in the center
of the instrument panel.
This gage shows the air pressure for both your front
and rear brake systems.
If the needle on the gage indicates that the air pressure
is below 60 to 75 psi (415 to 517 kPa), the low air
warning light will come on. An alarm will also sound if
this happens.
The top pointer shows the pressure available for the
front system, while the bottom pointer shows pressure
for the rear. There should be no more than 4 psi
(28 kPa) difference showing between the systems.
Don’t drive until both pointers are showing at least
120 psi (827 kPa), so you’ll have enough air if you need
to apply your brakes.
Hourmeter Gage
To access the engine hourmeter gage, press the trip
odometer button three times.
The instrument panel cluster displays the accumulated
engine run time hours using the reconfigurable
odometer display. The engine run time hours displays
only when the ignition is in the LOCK or ACCESSORY
position and the trip reset button is pressed for about
four seconds. The value of the accumulated hours does
not change when the battery is disconnected.
The hourmeter resets to 0.0 when 10,000 hours are
accumulated. The instrument panel cluster begins
to reaccumulate the engine run time hours from
0.0 hours.
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Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go
where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the
steering, and the accelerator. All three systems have
to do their work at the places where the tires meet
the road.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice,
it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the
tires and road can provide. That means you can lose
control of your vehicle.
Braking
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 3-33.
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your
foot and do it. That is reaction time.Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a
second. But that is only an average. It might be less
with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or
more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness,
coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol,
drugs and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a
second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels
66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency, so keeping enough space between
your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road (whether it is pavement
or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire
tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of
the vehicle; the weight of the load and the amount of
brake force applied.
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in
spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool
between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much
faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace
with the traffic and allow realistic following distances,
you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking.
That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake
normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do,
the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist.
But you will use it when you brake. Once the power
assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and
the brake pedal will be harder to push.Hydraulic Brake Systems
If your engine stops running, or if your primary brake
system stops working, your vehicle has a reserve power
assist system to help you slow down. Just slowly and
steadily apply the brake pedal until you can safely get off
the road. The pedal will seem harder to push down.
Do not pump the pedal; the system will not work well or
at all that way.
You may find that the steering wheel seems hard to turn
when you are turning and braking at the same time.
Also, the primary brake warning light may come on and
the warning tone may sound. This is normal because
the main hydraulic brake system and power steering
both use the power steering pump. If this ever happens,
let up on the brake pedal a little. When you let up on
the brake pedal in that situation, it lets the steering get a
little more help from the pump.
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Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start your engine and begin to drive away, ABS
will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or
clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.
If there is a problem with
ABS, this warning light will
stay on. SeeAnti-Lock
Brake System Warning
Light on page 3-35.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each wheel.
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A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
If you have the Traction Control System (TCS),
remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid. See
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-12.Ifyou
do not have this system, or if the system is off, then an
acceleration skid is also best handled by easing
your foot off the accelerator pedal.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your
best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking,
including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower
gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.If you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do
not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the
wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
•Drive defensively.
•Do not drink and drive.
•Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare
from headlamps behind you.
•Since you cannot see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you
and other vehicles.
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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly damage
your engine. Never drive through water that is
slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If
you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water,
drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water crossing,
your vehicle can be carried away. As little as
six inches of owing water can carry away a
smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other
vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warning signs, and otherwise be very
cautious about trying to drive through owing
water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
•Turn on your low-beam headlamps and your marker
and clearance lamps, if your vehicle has them — not
just your parking lamps — to help make you more
visible to others.
•Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted
by road spray.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-74.
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