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Air Brake Systems
If your vehicle has air brakes, it is important to get rid of
moisture in your system. Moisture will damage your
system if it is not removed daily.
There are two ways to do this. One is automatic through
the air brake vehicle’s air dryer with intregal automatic
moisture ejector that purges air from the system through
a self-contained reservoir. The other way to drain
moisture from the air brake system is to manually
activate drain valves at each reservoir. Drain the air
reservoirs occasionally to be sure the air dryer is
working properly.
Drain the air brakes at full system pressure. To be sure
you are at full pressure, check your air pressure
gage. It should read at least 100 psi (692 kPa).
Air Dryer
If your vehicle has air brakes, it will have an air dryer.
This collects and removes dirt, moisture, or other foreign
matter from the air prior to entering the brake system.
The dryer also acts as a moisture ejector. It
automatically ejects the moisture when the compressor
cycles. The purge tank has a manual drain valve
that must be drained every day. See “Air Brake
Systems” for the manual drain procedure. The air dryer
is mounted on the passenger side frame rail.
The dryer has a filter that you need to change at
intervals. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5for
more about servicing this filter.
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Electric Air Compressor
Your vehicle may have an electric air compressor. This
compressor is used to run options that require
pressurized air, such as air horn, air seat, 7.8L engine
exhaust restrictor, or 7.8L engine exhaust brake.
The air compressor is used when vehicles are not
equipped with an air brake system.
The air supply for this
system must be
maintained by releasing
the drain valve to eject any
moisture that may have
built up in the system.
It is recommended that this system be drained on a
weekly basis.
Clutch Pedal Free Travel
If you have a V8 engine and a manual transmission,
your clutch will need adjustment when pedal free travel
gets down to about 1/4 inch (32 mm), as measured
at the clutch pedal pad. You should have 1 1/2 to
2 inches (38 to 51 mm) of clutch pedal free travel.
If your clutch ever needs service, be sure to use only
GM clutch replacement parts.
Chassis Lubrication
Your Maintenance Schedule provides all of the required
chassis lubrication intervals and identifies proper
lubricants to use. Be sure to see your Maintenance
Schedule before performing any chassis lubrication
service. To determine location of chassis lubrication
items, use the following charts.
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Battery
Your vehicle has one or more maintenance free
batteries. When it is time for a new battery, be sure it
has the replacement number shown on the original
battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco
®
replacement battery.
Warning:Battery posts, terminals, and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Vehicle Storage
If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or
more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the
battery. This will help keep your battery from running
down. (If your vehicle has more than one battery,
be sure to remove the negative (−) battery cable from
each battery.)
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and
gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if
you are not careful. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-59for tips on working around a battery
without getting hurt.
When you are ready to use the vehicle again, refer to
the engine starting procedure in the Index.
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Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-5.
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage
the gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.
You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some
lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.
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Rear Axle Shift Motor
When to Check and Change Fluid
If you have an optional air-shift two-speed, controlled
traction, or locking differential type rear axle, a good time
to check the fluid level in the axle shift motor is when
the rear axle lubricant is checked. Use refrigerant
oil (shift motor only).
How to Check Fluid
Remove the plug on the front plate of the axle shift
motor, add enough fluid to raise the level to the bottom
of the filler plug hole, then replace the plug.
What to Use
Refer to your Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
A. Fill Plug
B. Drain Plug
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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the fill plug hole,
located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some
lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to
the bottom of the fill plug hole. Use care not to
overtighten the plug.
When to Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to change the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-5.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart C: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-33.
Front Axle
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
Notice:If you drive your vehicle through deep
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, water
may enter the axle housing and cause the axle
lubricant to break down. This could damage
the gears inside. Avoid driving your vehicle through
deep water.
You should avoid driving your vehicle through deep
puddles or standing water. If you must drive through
water that is higher than the front or rear axle, see your
dealer immediately afterward to have the condition of
the axle lubricant checked.
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How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you may need to add some lubricant.
Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of
the filler plug hole.
What to Use
To determine what kind of lubricant to use see
Part C: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 6-33.
Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with
a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty
booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
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Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for
the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or
delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in
use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:
•
Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:
•
Removal or rendering engine speed governor
(if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive:
•
Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering
clutch inoperative.
•Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).
Air Intake:
•
Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
•Modification of the air cleaner.
Exhaust:
•
Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
•Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe
clamps.
Bulb Replacement
It is recommended that all bulbs be replaced by your
dealer.
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