2006 CHEVROLET EXPRESS PASSANGER transmission

Traction Control Operation
The traction control system is part of the StabiliTrak®
system. Traction control limits wheel spin by reducing
engine power to the wheels (engine speed
management) and by applying brakes to each individual
wheel (brake-traction control) as necessary.
If the brake-traction control system activates constantly
or if the brakes have heated up due to high speed
braking, the brake-traction control will be automatically
disabled. The system will come back on after the
brakes have cooled. This can take up to two minutes
or longer depending on brake usage.
The traction control system may activate on dry or
rough roads or under conditions such as heavy
acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts
of the transmission. When this happens you may
notice a reduction in acceleration, or may hear a noise
or vibration. This is normal.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modications
on page 5-3for more information.
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System
If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, your engine’s driving
power is sent to all four wheels for extra traction
when needed.
This is like four-wheel drive, but there is no separate
lever or switch to engage or disengage the front axle.
It is fully automatic, and adjusts itself as needed for road
conditions.
You may experience a brief vehicle vibration upon
acceleration when driving in slippery conditions. This is
normal and is an indication that the all-wheel drive
system is functioning properly.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
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Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable.
•Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system,
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could
get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift
down to let your engine assist your brakes on
a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with
the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will
have to do all the work of slowing down. They
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have your engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
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•Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
•Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your
engine and transmission, and you can climb the
hill better.
•Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
•As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
•You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks
area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
•Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
•You may want to put winter emergency supplies
in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-53.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will
need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the
vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your
headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve
the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can
get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous
exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can
help you get out when you are stuck, but you must
use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-69.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing Your
Vehicle on page 4-35.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed
to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and
the Certification/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
•What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
•How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
•Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
•Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would
prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to
make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed.
Dinghy Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground, the drivetrain components could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all
four wheels on the ground. To properly tow these
vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer
with all four wheels off the ground.
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of
its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if
any of its wheels will be on the ground.
Dolly Towing
Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from
the rear:
1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake
on page 2-24for more information.
3. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P).
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Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking,
handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe
trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be
used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
•Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•See also “Driving on Grades” later in this section.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•the weight of the trailer
•the weight of the trailer tongue
•and the weight on your vehicle’s tires
Tow/Haul Mode
Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is
pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most
useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in
stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved
low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose
of the tow/haul mode is to:
•Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability
of transmission shifts,
•provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a
heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded,
•improve control of vehicle speed while requiring
less throttle pedal activity.
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Press this button located
to the right of the steering
wheel on the instrument
panel to turn tow/haul
mode on and off.
While activated, the
indicator light on the
instrument panel will
be on.
Tow/haul mode will turn off automatically when the
ignition is turned off. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light
on page 3-42.Tow/haul is most effective when the vehicle and trailer
combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s
Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight
of the Trailer” later in this section.
Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load will
cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine
and transmission driving characteristics, but will
not cause damage.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
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