2005 SATURN VUE tires
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What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brake system (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want
to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-8.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle
can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment re or other damage. When you
are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible.
Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h)
as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back
and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-44.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-68.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If your
vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system
off. SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, or with a manual transaxle, between
FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning
the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By
slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may
free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
the recovery hook if your vehicle has one. If you do need
to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-50.
Vehicles Equipped with VTi Variable
Transmission
If you press too hard on the accelerator pedal, you may
not be able to shift into DRIVE (D) or REVERSE (R).
If this happens, release the accelerator pedal, then shift
to the gear you want.
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Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certi cation/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle speci c Tire and Loading Information label is
attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s
door open, you will nd the label attached below
the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading
information label shows the number of occupant seating
positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity
weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the
size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire in ation pressures (D). For more
information on tires and in ation seeTires on page 5-55
andIn ation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Example Label
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Certi cation/Tire Label
A vehicle speci c Certi cation/Tire label is attached to
the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows
the proper size and speed rating of your vehicle’s
original tires, as well as the in ation pressures needed
to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle.
This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all
occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if your
vehicle is pulling a trailer.
The Certi cation/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).To nd out the actual loads on your front and rear
axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your
vehicle. Your retailer can help you with this. Be sure
to spread out your load equally on both sides of
the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR
for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread
it out.
Similar looking vehicles may have different GVWRs and
payloads. Please consult your vehicle’s Certi cation/Tire
label or your retailer for additional details.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings.
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Notice:If your vehicle has a four-speed automatic
transaxle, it can be dinghy towed from the front
for unlimited miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). If you
exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle,
it could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never exceed 65 mph
(105 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
Notice:If your vehicle has a ve-speed automatic
transaxle and it is towed for more than eight
hours per day or at speeds greater than 65 mph
(105 km/h), you could damage the automatic
transaxle. The repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Do not tow your vehicle for extended
periods of time or at speeds greater than 65 mph
(105 km/h).
After eight hours of towing, repeat Step 4 above for
ve-speed automatic transaxle.Once you have reached your destination, do the
following:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transaxle to FIRST (1) for manual
transaxle.
3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK and remove the key
from the ignition.
4. Reinstall the large IGN fuse.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage the
transaxle. Be sure that the transaxle uid is at the
proper level before towing with all four wheels
on the ground.
Notice:Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive
wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a
compact spare tire. Towing with two different
tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause
severe damage to the transaxle.
Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)
All-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with two
wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles,
they should be placed on a platform trailer with all
four wheels off of the ground.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part and see your retailer for
important information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with the
Red Line package. You can damage your vehicle. If
you are not sure if your vehicle is equipped with the Red
Line package, contact your retailer.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what
the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to
wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
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If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged. The
repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (805 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transaxle, you can use
INTERMEDIATE (I) or as you need to, a lower
gear which will minimize heat buildup and extend
the life of your transaxle.
If you have a VTi variable transaxle, you can use
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or as you need to
INTERMEDIATE (I).
If you have a manual transaxle, you should not use
FIFTH (5) gear. Drive in FOURTH (4) gear or as
you need to a lower gear.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h),
to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Don’t tow a trailer when the outside temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are in ated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of
the driver’s side rear door or seeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 4-46. Then be sure you don’t go over
the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the trailer
tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on
page 2-27. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into
your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do,
both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
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