
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You
will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can
be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle
has a traction control system, you will want to slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under
certain conditions, you may want to turn the traction
control system off, such as when driving through deep
snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-9.
Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock,
seeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. This
system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a
hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have the
anti-lock braking system or not, you will want to begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to
slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal
down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. You may also damage your
vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if
you have followed all the steps in this section.
Ask your dealer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what
the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle,
rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added weight. The
engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
•Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
•The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
•Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-25. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to
tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the
possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P).
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind
the trailer wheels.
3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•start your engine,
•shift into a gear, and
•release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
information. Things that are especially important in
trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (do not
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is covered in
this manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this
information before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-23.
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Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...........................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-17
Automatic Transaxle Fluid..............................5-20
Engine Coolant.............................................5-20
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-23
Engine Overheating.......................................5-23
Cooling System............................................5-26
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-31
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-32Brakes........................................................5-33
Battery........................................................5-36
Jump Starting...............................................5-37
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-42
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-42
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps....................................5-42
Fog Lamps..................................................5-44
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........5-45
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-45
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-46
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-47
Tires..............................................................5-48
Tire Sidewall Labelling...................................5-49
Tire Terminology and Definitions.....................5-51
Inflation - Tire Pressure.................................5-54
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-55
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-56
Buying New Tires.........................................5-57
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-58
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-59
Wheel Replacement......................................5-60
Tire Chains..................................................5-61
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-62
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17for more information.
B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-13for more information.
C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13for more information.
D. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 5-33for more
information.
E. Power Steering Fluid. SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-31for more information.
F. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-36for more
information.
G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-26for more information.
H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-32for more information.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the MIN mark, then you will need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use.
For engine oil crankcase capacity, seeCapacities
and Speci cations on page 5-89.
Notice:Do not add too much oil. If your engine
has so much oil that the oil level gets above
the upper mark that shows the proper operating
range, your engine could be damaged.
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Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder
reservoir is filled with
DOT-3 brake fluid. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the
reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level
in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake
fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal
brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the
fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is
leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should
have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that
sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will
not work at all.So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add
fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have
too much fluid when you get new brake linings.
You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary,
only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake uid, it can spill on
the engine. The uid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
uid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake
warning light will come on. SeeBrake System Warning
Light on page 3-27.
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