218 Car care and technical informationWhen to checkCheck your tires once a month or more.
Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It
should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).How to CheckUse a good quality pocket-type gauge to
check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your
tires are properly inflated simply by looking
at them. Radial tires may look properly infla-
ted even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the
valve stems. They help prevent leaks by
keeping out dirt and moisture.Tire Inspection and RotationAny time you notice unusual wear, rotate
your tires as soon as possible and check
wheel alignment. Also check for damaged
tires or wheels. See “When It Is Time for
New Tires” on page 219 and “Wheel Repla-
cement” on page 222 for more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve
more uniform wear for all tires on the
vehicle. The first rotation is the most impor-
tant.
When rotating your tires, always use the
correct rotation pattern. Left front tire to left
rear. Left rear tire to right front. Right front to
right rear. Right rear to left front.
Don’t include the compact spare tire in your
tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the
front and rear inflation pressures as shown
on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tigh-
tened. See page 233.
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need
balancing.
Flat spots of this type disappear once the
tires get hot again, usually after 10–15 miles
(20–25 km) of driving at cruising speed.
WARNING
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause an accident.
When you change a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do
this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the
rust or dirt off. See “Changing a wheel” on
page 231.
ProCarManuals.com
220 Car care and technical informationThe wheels and tires have been carefully
matched to the characteristics of the car and
play a key role in its outstanding roadhol-
ding and handling.
Do not take it for granted that a wheel/tire
combination will work in the best possible
way, just because it can be fitted to the car.
To ensure that the speedometer is as accu-
rate as possible it should be reprogrammed
if wheels of a different dimension are fitted.
Contact a Saab dealer.
Because of front wheel drive, the front tires
tend to wear faster than the rear ones. New
tires should always be fitted in pairs, so that
tires on the same axle have the same
amount of tread.
Store wheels lying flat or hanging –
never
standing upright.
NOTICEAlways
consult your Saab dealer before
changing the wheels and tires on your
Saab.
Wide wheels and tires with sidewalls that
are too low can:
be damaged in potholes etc.
cause springs, shock absorbers and
wheel bearings and body mountings
can be overloaded.
cause the wheels to come into contact
with chassis and body components.
can affect the function of the Elec-
tronic Stability Program (ESP).
The speed and load limits for the tires
must not be exceeded; see page 225.
Wheels larger than 17” must not be fitted.
The maximum permissible offset is
49 mm.
WARNING
Mixing tires could cause you to lose
control while driving. If you mix tires of
different sizes or types (radial and bias-
belted tires), the vehicle may not handle
properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also
cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to
use the same size and type tires on all
wheels. It’s all right to drive with your
compact spare temporarily, it was devel-
oped for use on your vehicle. See
“Compact spare tire” on page 230.
WARNING
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle,
the wheel rim flanges could develop
cracks after many miles of driving. A tire
and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing
a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the
wheels on your vehicle.
ProCarManuals.com
221 Car care and technical information
Uniform Tire Quality GradingQuality grades can be found where applica-
ble on the tire sidewall between tread shoul-
der and maximum section width. For
example:Treadwear 200 Traction AA
Temperature AThe following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety Administra-
tion, which grades tires by treadwear, trac-
tion and temperature performance. (This
applies only to vehicles sold in the United
States.) The grades are molded on the side-
walls of most passenger car tires. The Uni-
form Tire Quality Grading system does not
apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires,
space-saver or temporary use spare tires,
tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12
inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-pro-
duction tires.
While the tires available on General Motors
passenger cars and light trucks may vary
with respect to these grades, they must also
conform to federal safety requirements and
additional General Motors Tire Perfor-
mance Criteria (TPC) standards.
TreadwearThe treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled conditions on
a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would wear one
and a half (1.5) times as well on the govern-
ment course as a tire graded 100. The rela-
tive performance of tires depends upon the
actual conditions of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due
to variations in driving habits, service prac-
tices and differences in road characteristics
and climate.Traction – AA, A, B, CThe traction grades, from highest to lowest,
are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades repre-
sent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pave-
ment as measured under controlled condi-
tions on specified government test surfaces
of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C
may have poor traction performance. War-
ning: The traction grade assigned to this tire
is based on straight-ahead braking traction
tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction
characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, CThe temperature grades are A (the highest),
B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance
to the generation of heat and its ability to dis-
sipate heat when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate
and reduce tire life, and excessive tempera-
ture can lead to sudden tire failure. The
grade C corresponds to a level of perfor-
mance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A
represent higher levels of performance on
the laboratory test wheel than the minimum
required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire
is established for a tire that is properly infla-
ted and not overloaded. Excessive speed,
underinflation, or excessive loading, either
separately or in combination, can cause
heat buildup and possible tire failure.
ProCarManuals.com
223 Car care and technical information
Tire Chains
Notice:
If your vehicle does not have
225/45R17 size tires, use tire chains only
where legal and only when you must.
Contact your Saab dealer regarding sui-
table snow chains. Install them on the
front tires and tighten them as tightly as
possible with the ends securely faste-
ned. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions. If you can
hear the chains contacting your vehicle,
stop and retighten them. If the contact
continues, slow down until it stops. Dri-
ving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow-out” while
you’re driving, especially if you maintain
your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire,
it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But
if you should ever have a “blow-out”, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what
to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a
drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side.
Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and
grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to main-
tain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blow-out, particularly on a curve, acts
much like a skid and may require the same
correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear
blowout, remove your foot from the accele-
rator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go.
It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can
still steer. Gently brake to a stop – well off
the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to
use your jacking equipment to change a flat
tire safely.
WARNING
If your vehicle has 225/45 R17 size tires,
don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough
clearance.
Tire chains used on a vehicle without the
proper amount of clearance can cause
damage to the brakes, suspension or
other vehicle parts. The area damaged by
the tire chains could cause you to lose
control of your vehicle and you or others
may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if
its manufacturer recommends it for use
on your vehicle and tire size combination
and road conditions. Follow that manu-
facturer’s instructions. To help avoid
damage to your vehicle, drive slowly,
readjust or remove the device if it’s
contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin
your wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit,
install them on the front tires.
ProCarManuals.com
226 Car care and technical informationLoading Your VehicleThis is an example of what your vehicle´s
Tire-Loading Information/Certification label
might look like. It is located on the B-pillar
and shows how much weight your vehicle
may properly carry. The label tells you the
proper size, and recommended inflation
pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It
also gives you important information about
the number of people that can be in your
vehicle and the total weight that you can
carry. This weight is called the Vehicle
Capacity Weight, and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-
installed options.
Tire Terminology and DefinitionsAir Pressure:
The amount of air inside the
tire pressing outward on each square inch of
the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds
per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:
This means the combi-
ned weight of optional accessories, for
example, automatic transmission, power
steering, power brakes, power windows,
power seats, radio and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:
The relationship of a tire´s
height to its width.
Belt:
A rubber coated layer of cords that is
located between the plies and the tread.
Cords may be made from steel or other rein-
forcecing materials.
Bias Ply Tire:
A pneumatic tire in which the
ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at
alternate angles substantially less than 90
degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Inflation Pressure:
The amount of air
pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per
square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa), before
a tire have built up heat from driving. See
“Inflation - Tire Pressure” on page 217.
Curb weight:
This means the weight of a
motor vehicle with standard and optional
equipment including the maximum capacity
of fuel, oil and coolant, without passengers
and cargo.
DOT Markings:
A code molded into the
sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in
compliance with the U.S. Department of
Transportation motor vehicle safety stan-
dards. The DOT code includes the Tire
Identification Number (TIN), an alphanume-
ric designator which can also indentify the
tire manufacturer, production plant, brand
and date of production.
GVWR:
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating see
“Loading Your Vehicle” on page 226.
GAWR FRT:
Gross Axle Weight Rating for
the front axle, see “Loading Your Vehicle”
on page 226.
GAWR RR:
Gross Axle Weight Rating for
the rear axle, see “Loading Your Vehicle” on
page 226.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:
The side of
an asymmetrical tire that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):
The metric unit for air
pressure. There are 6.9 kPa to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:
A tire used
on light duty trucks and some multipurpose
passenger vehicles.
Load Index:
An assigned number ranging
from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load
carrying capacity of a tire.
This label can only be found on vehicles
sold in the U.S.
Vehicles sold in Canada have the tire
information label in the glovebox, see
page 262.
ProCarManuals.com
231 Car care and technical information
Changing a wheel
WARNING
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous
without the appropriate safety equipment
and training. The jack provided with your
vehicle is designed only for changing a
flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you
or others could be badly injured or killed if
the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack
provided with your vehicle only for chang-
ing a flat tire.
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The
vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over
or fall on you or other people. You and
they could be badly injured or even killed.
Find a level place to change your tire. To
help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1 Set the parking brake firmly.
2 If you have an automatic transmis-
sion, put the shift lever in PARK (P).
For a manual transmission, leave the
car in gear (1st or REVERSE (R)).
3 Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
4 Do not allow passengers to remain in
the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle won't
move, you should put blocks at the front
and rear of the tire farthest away from the
one being changed. That would be the
tire, on the other side, at the opposite end
of the vehicle.
The car jack is designed solely for use
in changing a wheel or fitting snow
chains.
It must not be used to
support the car during repair work
or servicing.
Never
crawl under a car that is
supported only by a jack.
Raising your vehicle too high or with
the jack improperly positioned can
damage the vehicle and even make
the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal
injury and vehicle damage, be sure to
fit the jack lift head into the proper
location before raising the vehicle, and
raise the vehicle only far enough off
the ground so there is enough room for
the spare tire to fit (no more than 25
mm or 1 inch clearance between the
ground and the bottom of the tire).
Switch on the hazard warning lights if
the car is on a road.
The jack should be stored correctly
under the carpeting in the trunk. If it
lies loose in the car, it could thrown
forward and cause personal injury in
the event of a crash or if the car rolls
over.
Grit, salt and rust can clog the inner
threads of the wheel bolts if the car has
been driven for several years exclu-
sively with alloy wheels.
If steel wheels are being installed, the
bolt hole threads in the brake hubs
should be cleaned before the thinner
steel wheels are fitted. It may other-
wise not be possible to achieve the
correct clamping force, despite tight-
ening the wheel bolts to the correct
torque.
ProCarManuals.com
240 Car care and technical informationAnti-corrosion
treatmentThe entire car is corrosion-protected at the
factory in different stages by an electrolytic
immersion coating and a PVC-based pro-
tective coating to protect against corrosion
caused by stones flung up by the wheels. A
thin penetrating anti-rust oil is also applied
in cavities and body members.
In addition to conventional anti-corrosion
treatment like painting, underbody treat-
ment and cavity treatment, most of the body
panel surfaces are galvanized. These
include the hood, the doors and the under-
body.
The anti-corrosion treatment on the under-
side of the car and inside the wheel arches
is particularly exposed to constant wear and
possible damage, the degree of which will
obviously depend on driving conditions.
What causes rust?Steel body panels of automobiles are sub-
ject to rusting whenever air and moisture
manage to penetrate the protective finish,
and body panels may rust through if the pro-
cess is unchecked. Rusting can occur
wherever water is trapped or where the
car’s panels are continuously damp.
Damage to paint and undercoating by sto-
nes, gravel and minor crashes immediately
exposes metal to air and moisture. Road
salts used for de-icing will collect on the
bottom of the car and promote rusting.
Areas of the country with high humidity have
great potential for rust problems, especially
where salt is used on roads or there is moist
sea air. Industrial pollution (fallout) may also
damage paint and promote rusting.
Preventive maintenanceThe following procedures are necessary to
help protect against rusting. Refer also to
the terms and conditions of the Sheet Metal
Coverage described in the warranty
booklet.
1
Wash the car frequently, and wax at
least twice a year.
Under adverse con-
ditions, where there is a rapid buildup of
dirt, sand or road salt, wash your car at
least once a week. After extreme expo-
sure to salted snow or slush, evidenced
by a white film on the car, wash the car
immediately. Frequent washing will pre-
vent paint damage from acid rain and
other airborne contaminants such as
tree sap and bird droppings. If any of
these contaminants are noticed on the
car the finish should be washed immedi-
ately.
Begin washing by rinsing the entire car
with water to loosen and flush off heavy
concentrations of dirt (include the
underbody).
Sponge the car with a solution of either
a good quality car soap or mild general
purpose (dish washing) detergent and
water.
Rinse car thoroughly with clean water.
After washing, check and clear all
drains in doors and body panels.
Wipe the car dry, preferably using a
chamois.
ProCarManuals.com
241 Car care and technical information
2Clean the underside of the car during
the winter.
Use high pressure water to
clean the car’s underside (floor panels,
wheel wells) at least at mid- winter and
in the spring.
3
Inspect the car frequently for leaks or
damage, and arrange for needed
repairs promptly.
After washing or after
heavy rain, check for leaks. When wash-
ing the car inspect body surfaces for
paint damage. While checking for leaks,
lift the floor mats and check beneath
them. Water can collect in these areas
and remain for prolonged periods. Dry
any wet areas including the floor mats.
Have leaks repaired as soon as pos-
sible.
Use touch-up paint to repair small scrat-
ches or minor finish damage. Areas
where metal is exposed will rust quickly
and MUST be repaired immediately by
touch-up or professional repainting.
Rust must be removed, the bare metal
primed and painted. Major body
damage should be repaired immediately
and new panels or exposed areas
should be undercoated with anti- corro-
sion material.
Repairs of this type are the owner’s
responsibility and are not covered under
warranty.4
Inspect the undercoating and touch
up if necessary.
Pay particular atten-
tion to the fenders and wheel housings,
which are exposed to abrasion by flying
gravel, etc. If the composition has worn
or flaked off, the steel must be tho-
roughly cleaned and dried before a fresh
coat is applied. The cleaning is best
done with a scraper and a steel wire
brush, followed by washing with solvent.
Apply the new coating thinly, as other-
wise it may run off or fall off when dry.
For long tripsBefore setting off on a long journey, it is
advisable to have your car checked over by
your Saab dealer.
Obtain a few important items to take along
on your journey such as spare bulbs, wiper
blades, fuses, a Poly-V-belt and the like.
You can check some points yourself befor-
ehand:
Make sure that the engine is in good con-
dition.
Check that no oil or gasoline leaks out of
the engine or gearbox/transmission.
Check the coolant and power steering
fluid levels. Check also for leaks.
Inspect the Poly-V-belt and replace it if it
shows any signs of hard wear.
Check the battery charge.
Check the tires for tread pattern and air
pressure, including the compact spare
wheel.
Check the brakes.
Check all bulbs.
Check for the presence of the tool kit and
the jack in the car.
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