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Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine
cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins
faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In
most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning
slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch
more fully engages, so you may hear an increase in fan
noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch disengages.You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, you
may hear the fans spinning at low speed during most
everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no cooling is
required. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing,
and/or high outside temperatures, or if you are operating
your air conditioning system, the fans change to high
speed and you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and indicates that the cooling system is
functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer required.
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2. Press the retainer clip (B), located behind the turn
signal housing, towards the outside of the vehicle.
3. Pull the turn signal housing out of the vehicle.
4. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket
counterclockwise and remove it from the turn signal
housing.
5. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket.
6. Put a new bulb into the bulb socket. Use care not
to touch the bulb with your ngers or hands.7. Put the bulb socket back into the turn signal
housing and turn it clockwise until it locks.
8. Put the turn signal housing back into the vehicle
placing the hook and posts on the inner side into
the alignment holes rst, then the outer side into the
retainer bracket until you hear a click.
9. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.
Roof Marker Lamps
To replace a roof marker lamp bulb, do the following:
1. Remove the two
screws and lift
off the lens.
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Windshield Wiper Blade
Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least
twice a year for wear and cracking. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4for more information.
Replacement blades come in different types and are
removed in different ways. For proper type and length,
seeNormal Maintenance Replacement Parts on
page 6-17.
To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the
following:
1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is
facing away from the windshield.
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly
toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.
Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by
a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions
about your tire warranty and where to obtain service,
see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional
information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet
included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.
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{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-92.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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3. Insert the hoist end
(open end) (F) of the
extension through
the hole (G) in the
rear bumper.
Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects to the
hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension
is used to lower the spare tire.
4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to
lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to
turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be
pulled out from under the vehicle.
If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the
secondary latch is engaged causing the tire
not to lower. SeeSecondary Latch System on
page 5-105.5. Use the wheel wrench
hook which allows you
to pull the hoist
cable towards you to
assist in reaching
the spare tire.
6. Tilt the retainer (D) at
the end of the cable
when the tire has been
lowered, so it can
be pulled up through
the wheel opening.
7. Put the spare tire near the at tire.
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4. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the
rear axle is resting securely between the grooves
that are on the jack head. Turn the wheel
wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the
vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough
room for the spare tire to t under the wheel well.5. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. Rear Position
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6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.7. After mounting the
spare, put the wheel
nuts back on with
the rounded end of the
nuts toward the
wheel.
8. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the
wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel
is held against the hub.
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