2005 CHEVROLET AVEO maintenance

Fuel
Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the
proper maintenance of your vehicle.
Gasoline Octane
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane
of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get
a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs,
use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as
possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.
A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill
is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem
exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are
using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service.
Gasoline Specications
It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications
which were developed by automobile manufacturers
around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel
Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile
Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm.
Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide
improved driveability and emission control system
performance compared to other gasoline.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that
meet California specifications. See the underhood
emission control label. If this fuel is not available
in states adopting California emissions standards, your
vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting
federal specifications, but emission control system
performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator
lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a
smog-check test. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp on
page 3-28. If this occurs, return to your authorized
GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that
the condition is caused by the type of fuel used,
repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
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When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
•Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
•Most trips include extensive idling, such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic.
•You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
•The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi,
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months — whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine
under highway conditions will cause engine oil to
break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean
your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good
hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or
rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the
filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it
in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or
into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it
by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have
a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask
your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
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SeeUsing the Maintenance Schedule on page 6-4for
replacement intervals.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ame if the engine backres. If it is
not there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre
can cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt
can easily get into your engine, which will damage
it. Always have the air cleaner/lter in place
when you are driving.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid
When to Check Automatic Transaxle
Fluid
Check your automatic transaxle fluid level at least
twice a year. Add fluid if needed. SeeAt Least Twice
a Year on page 6-19.
How to Check Automatic Transaxle
Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of
the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
or exhaust system parts, starting a re. Too little
uid could cause the transaxle to overheat.
Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check
the transaxle uid.
5-18

How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transaxle fluid to use. SeePart D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-25.
If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper
fluid to bring the level into the area between the
two dimples in the hot range on the dipstick.
1. Pull out the dipstick.
2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at
the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.
It does not take much fluid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle
uid may damage your vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by your warranty. Always
use the automatic transaxle uid listed in
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
on page 6-25.
3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push
the dipstick back in all the way.
Manual Transaxle Fluid
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level.
A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss.
If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership
service department and have it repaired as soon as
possible. SeePart D: Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 6-25for the proper fluid to use.
Hydraulic Clutch
There is one reservoir for both the brake and the
hydraulic clutch fluid. SeeBrakes on page 5-32for
more information.
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is
self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled
with hydraulic fluid.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often you should check the fluid level in your
master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.
SeePart B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-18
andPart D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
on page 6-25.
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Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if
the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your
vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM
brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking
system —for example, when your brake linings
wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure
you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you
do not, your brakes may no longer work properly.
For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are
wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your
front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The
braking performance you have come to expect can
change in many other ways if someone puts in
the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery
Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is
time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement
number shown on the original battery’s label. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on page 5-12for battery location.
Warning:Battery posts, terminals and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Vehicle Storage
If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days
or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from
the battery. This will help keep your battery from
running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and
gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt
if you are not careful. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-36for tips on working around a battery
without getting hurt.
5-35

Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press
the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure
measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches
the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading
Information label, no further adjustment is necessary.
If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the
recommended amount.
If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the
metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the
tire pressure with the tire gage.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and
moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
(8 000 to 13 000 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also
check for damaged tires or wheels. SeeWhen It Is Time
for New Tires on page 5-55andWheel Replacement
on page 5-58for more information.The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation
is the most important. SeePart A: Scheduled
Maintenance Services on page 6-4.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here.
Do not include the compact spare tire in the tire
rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures as shown on the tire and loading
information label. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-28for an example of the tire and loading
information label and where it is located on your vehicle.
5-54

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would;
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning flashers.
5-60

Notice:If you drive your vehicle through an
automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire
cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum
or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not
be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle
equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels
through an automatic car wash that uses silicone
carbide tire cleaning brushes.
Do not take the vehicle through an automatic car wash
that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These
brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Tires
To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner.
Notice:Using petroleum-based tire dressing
products on your vehicle may damage the paint
nish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing,
always wipe off any overspray from all painted
surfaces on your vehicle.
Sheet Metal Damage
If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal
repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop
applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or
replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the
corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the
finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal
will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair
expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up
materials available from your GM dealer. Larger areas
of finish damage can be corrected in your GM
dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust
control can collect on the underbody. If these are not
removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the
underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan,
and exhaust system even though they have corrosion
protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud
and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of
the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can
do this for you.
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