2004 Oldsmobile Bravada tow

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while
stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning,turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-27

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of the
ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is hand-tight.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-34

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the
Certication/Tire label or the Tire and Loading
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-105.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat
Tire” in the Index.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
5-66

If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-73

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you will need is stored under the
rear seat on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. To
release the jack from its holder, turn the knob on
the jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head. See
Rear Seat Operation on page 1-6The tools you’ll be using include the wheel wrench (A),
wheel blocks (B), extension (socket end) (C), handle
(jack end) (D), and jack (E).
The following instructions explain how to remove the
spare tire mounted underneath your vehicle.
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to the
storage position under the vehicle when it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the tire
and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a tire
when the vehicle is on the ground.
5-75

3. Put the spare tire near the at tire.
4. Position the chisel end
of your wheel wrench
in the notch of the
center cap and pry off
the center cap.
See “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare
Tire” later in this section to continue changing the
at tire.Secondary Latch System
Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It’s
designed to stop the spare or at road tire from
suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the
spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to
work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem
pointing up. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools”
for instructions on storing the spare or at tire correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the
instructions. Failure to read and follow the
instructions could damage the hoist assembly
and you and others could get hurt. Read and
follow the instructions listed below.
5-77

5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Attach the jack handle, extension and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle
towards the front of the rear bumper. Position
the center lift point of the jack under the center of
the spare tire.7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end tting.
8. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
9. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the
spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by
the cable.
5-79

7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
8. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
9. Put the nuts on by
hand. Make sure the
rounded end is
toward the wheel.
10. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand,
use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon
as possible.
5-83