2004 GMC ENVOY XUV tow

Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission ¯uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the ¯uid and ®lter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
·In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90ÉF (32ÉC) or higher.
·In hilly or mountainous terrain.
·When doing frequent trailer towing.
·Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the ¯uid and ®lter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little ¯uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the ¯uid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a ®re.
Too little ¯uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission ¯uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission ¯uid level if you have been driving:
·When outside temperatures are above 90ÉF (32ÉC).
·At high speed for quite a while.
·In heavy traffic-especially in hot weather.
·While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the ¯uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180ÉF to 200ÉF
(82ÉC to 93ÉC).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50ÉF
(10ÉC). If it's colder than 50ÉF (10ÉC), drive the vehicle
in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
5-21

A cold ¯uid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off,
but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine
run at idle for ®ve minutes if outside temperatures are
50ÉF (10ÉC) or more. If it's colder than 50ÉF (10ÉC), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ¯uid
level be low during this cold check, you
mustcheck the
¯uid hot before adding ¯uid. Checking the ¯uid hot
will give you a more accurate reading of the ¯uid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
·Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
·With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
·With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
·Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.Then, without shutting off the engine, follow
these steps:
The automatic
transmission dipstick
handle with the
transmission and lock
symbol is located in the
engine compartment
on the passenger's side of
the vehicle.
See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again. Check both sides of the
dipstick, and read the lower level.
5-22

CAUTION: (Continued)
down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or
coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch ®re. You
or others could be badly burned. Stop your
engine if it overheats, and get out of the
vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice:If your engine catches ®re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
·Climb a long hill on a hot day.
·Stop after high-speed driving.
·Idle for long periods in traffic.
·Tow a trailer.If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while
stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn't come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there's still no sign of steam, you can push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you're parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-27

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
®ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
žcoolant mixture
through the ®ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ®ller neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ¯ow out of the
®ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is hand-tight.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-34

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ®rst rotation
is the most important. See
Scheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation
pattern shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear in¯ation pressures as shown on the
Certi®cation/Tire label or the Tire and Loading
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened. See ªWheel Nut Torqueº under
Capacities and Speci®cations on page 5-101.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. See ªChanging a Flat
Tireº in the Index.
5-62

If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblowoutº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the ¯at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ®rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a ¯at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a ¯at tire.
If a tire goes ¯at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a ¯at tire safely.
5-70

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
A. Wing Nut
B. Jack Bracket
C. Jack and Wheel
BlocksD. Retainer
E. Thumbwheel
F. Tool Kit Wing Nut
G. Tool Kit
The jacking equipment you will need is stored under the
rear seat on the passenger's side of the vehicle. See
Rear Seat Operation on page 1-7for more information
on accessing the jacking equipment. To remove the
tool kit, turn the tool kit wing nut (F) counterclockwise
and remove the jack bracket. To release the jackfrom the bracket, remove wing nut (A). Turn the
thumbwheel counterclockwise to lower the jack head.
Remove the retainer and wheel blocks.
The tools you'll be using include the wheel wrench (A),
wheel blocks (B), extensions (socket end) (C), handle
(jack end) (D), and jack (E).
The following instructions explain how to remove the
spare tire mounted underneath your vehicle.
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to the
storage position under the vehicle when it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the tire
and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a tire
when the vehicle is on the ground.
5-72

2. If it is not visible, proceed to Step 6.
If visible, ®rst try to tighten the cable by turning the
wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks
or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten
the cable.
3. Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise three or four turns.
4. Repeat this procedure at least two times.
If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with
Step 2 of ªRemoving the Spare Tire and Toolsº
earlier in this section.
5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until about
6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Attach the jack handle, extensions and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle
towards the front of the rear bumper. Position
the center lift point of the jack under the center of
the spare tire.
7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end ®tting.
8. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held ®rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
5-75