2004 CHEVROLET S10 tires

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but
you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-80.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release
the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get
you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out.
Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle
has them. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-42.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A. Vehicle Capacity WeightThe Tire and Loading Information label is attached to
the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. Vehicles
without a center pillar will have the Tire and Loading
Information label attached to the driver’s door edge. This
label lists the number of people that can be in your
vehicle and the total weight it can carry. This weight is
called the vehicle capacity weight.
The Tire and Loading Information label also tells you
the size and recommended inflation pressure for
the original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more
information on tires and inflation seeTires on page 5-61
andInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-72.
If your vehicle does not have the Tire and Loading
Information label, the Certification/Tire label shows the
tire size and recommended inflation pressures
needed to obtain the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for
the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label”
later in this section.
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Refer to your vehicle’s tire loading information label for
specific information about your vehicle’s capacity
weight and seating positions. The combined weight of
the driver, passengers and cargo should never
exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
Certication/Tire Label
The Certification/Tire label is found on the driver’s door
edge, above the door latch. The label shows the
size of your original tires and the inflation pressures
needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your
vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the
vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue
weight, if pulling a trailer.
The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads
on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a
weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can
help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load
equally on both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR
for either the front or rear axle.
If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs
and payloads. Please note your vehicle’s
Certification/Tire label or consult your dealer for
additional details.
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If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, accelleration, braking, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
•Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3)
or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the
transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual
transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s
better not to use the highest gear.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•the weight of the trailer,
•the weight of the trailer tongue
•and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then
the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If
they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by
moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
above the door latch, or seeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-42. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure
you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
•If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
•If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg) be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you’re driving.
•If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not
bolt any type of hitch to the close-out panel. The
close-out panel will not support a hitch.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brake–and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
•The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20
650 kPa) of pressure.
•The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch, all parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-59
Tires..............................................................5-61
Inflation - Tire Pressure.................................5-72
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-74
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-75
Buying New Tires.........................................5-76
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-77
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-78
Wheel Replacement......................................5-78
Tire Chains..................................................5-80
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-81
Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-82
Compact Spare Tire......................................5-94
Appearance Care............................................5-94
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle.................5-95
Care of Safety Belts......................................5-97
Weatherstrips...............................................5-98Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle..............5-98
Sheet Metal Damage...................................5-101
Finish Damage...........................................5-101
Underbody Maintenance...............................5-101
Chemical Paint Spotting...............................5-101
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials................5-102
Vehicle Identication.....................................5-103
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)................5-103
Service Parts Identification Label...................5-104
Electrical System..........................................5-104
Add-On Electrical Equipment.........................5-104
Headlamps.................................................5-104
Windshield Wiper Fuses...............................5-105
Power Windows and Other Power Options......5-105
Fuses and Circuit Breakers..........................5-105
Capacities and Specications........................5-111
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-2

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in
the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
SeeBrake System Inspection on page 6-31.Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes
adjust for wear.
If you do not have four-wheel drive and your brake
pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum
brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up
and firmly applying the brakes a few times.
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