2004 CHEVROLET ASTRO CARGO VAN window

Defogging and Defrosting
Turn the right knob to select the defog or defrost mode.
-(Blend):With this setting, the outside air comes
out of both the oor and defroster outlets. Adjust
the temperature knob for warmer or cooler air. The air
conditioning compressor may operate in this setting
to dehumidfy the air.
1(Defrost):This setting operates the defroster. Most
of the air comes out near the windshield, with some
going to the oor outlets and front side windows. The air
conditioning compressor may operate in this setting to
dehumidify the air.
The bi-level setting is useful for cold weather with a
large number of passengers or very humid conditions to
help keep the windshield clear. Use defrost to remove
fog or ice from the windshield quickly in extremely
cold conditions. The temperature knob should be in the
red area and the fan control toward high.
Rear Window Defogger
The rear window defogger uses a warming grid to
remove fog or frost from the rear window.
The rear window defogger will only work when the
ignition is in RUN.
Press this button to turn
the rear window defogger
on or off. Be sure to
clear as much snow from
the window as possible.
The rear window defogger will turn off several minutes
after the button is pressed. If turned on again, the
defogger will run for several more minutes before turning
off. The defogger can also be turned off by pressing
the button again or by turning off the engine.
3-18

Notice:Using a razor blade or sharp object to clear
the inside rear window may damage the rear
window defogger. Repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Do not clear the inside of the rear
window with sharp objects.
Outlet Adjustment
Move the thumbwheel in the center of the outlets up or
down to change the direction of airow.
Operation Tips
Clear away any ice, snow or leaves from the air
inlets at the base of the windshield that may
block the ow of air into your vehicle.
Use of non-GM approved hood deectors may
adversely affect the performance of the system.
Keep the path under the front seats clear of objects
to help circulate the air inside of your vehicle more
effectively.
3-19

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain
you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect
to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit,
do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up.
Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer,
not to your sense of motion. After driving for any
distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you
are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you are not fresh — such as after
a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles
that rst part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing
and shoes you can easily drive in.Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you
will nd experienced and able service experts in GM
dealerships all across North America. They will be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid:Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
Wiper Blades:Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids:Have you checked
all levels?
Lamps:Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires:They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inated
to the recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts:What is the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a
short time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps:Do you have up-to-date maps?
4-20

{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can not see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the
engine again and repeat this only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little
as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour
or so until help comes.
4-27

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can not see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-29. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum
air because it only recirculates the air
inside your vehicle. See Climate Control
System in the Index.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to
be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that
the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Appearance Care............................................5-91
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle.................5-92
Care of Safety Belts......................................5-94
Weatherstrips...............................................5-94
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle.................5-95
Sheet Metal Damage.....................................5-97
Finish Damage.............................................5-97
Underbody Maintenance................................5-97
Chemical Paint Spotting.................................5-97
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials..................5-98
Vehicle Identication......................................5-99
Vehicle Identication Number (VIN).................5-99
Service Parts Identication Label.....................5-99Electrical System..........................................5-100
Add-On Electrical Equipment.........................5-100
Headlamp Wiring........................................5-100
Windshield Wiper Fuses...............................5-100
Power Windows and Other Power Options......5-100
Fuses and Circuit Breakers..........................5-101
Capacities and Specications........................5-107
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts.........5-109
Engine Drive Belt Routing............................5-110
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-2

If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-35.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can
drive normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped,
pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, you can push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-30

Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height to
its width.
Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi)
or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from
driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-70.Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment including
the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but
without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the
U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety
standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identication
Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can
also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant,
brand and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
axle, seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
5-68