
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow
down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the
brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores
steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels
are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will
want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock,
seeBraking on page 4-6. This system improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner
than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock
brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on
the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily
to get the most traction you can.
Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so
hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard ashers.
Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
4-28

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle
has traction control, you should turn the system off.
SeeFull-Range Traction Control System on page 4-9or
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Then
shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and
a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle
is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the
forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking
motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not
get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed
out. If you do need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing, towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground, and dolly towing,
towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
4-31

Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you
will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to
be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip
on page 4-23.
Dinghy Towing
Notice:If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground, the drivetrain components could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground.
The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four
wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed,
you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows
for more information.
Dolly Towing
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your
vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. Put the gear shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Set the parking brake and then remove the ignition
key.
4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position.
5. Release the parking brake.
4-32

Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, get to know the rig.
Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking
with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in
mind that the vehicle is now a good deal longer and not
nearly as responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check the
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can
help avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed up ahead when
towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a good deal
longer with the trailer, you will need to go much farther
beyond the vehicle you have passed before you
can return to the proper lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
4-43

If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-77

Fuses Usage
CRUISE Cruise Control
Blank Not Used
CLSTR Instrument Panel Cluster
LTR Cigarette Lighter
STOP LAMPS Stoplamps
ONSTAR OnStar
®
PRK/LGHT Parking Lamps
Blank Not Used
CRNK SIG,
BCM, CLSTRCrank Signal, Body Control Module,
Cluster, Powertrain Control Module
HVACIgnition Signal, Heating, Ventilation
and Air Conditioning Control Head
BTSI (REGAL) Shifter Lock Solenoid
AIR BAG Air Bag
BCM PWR Body Control Module
HAZRD Hazard Warning Flashers
Fuses Usage
LH HTD SEAT Driver’s Heated Seat
Blank Not Used
BCM ACCYIgnition Signal: Hot in ACCESSORY
and RUN, Body Control Module
Blank Not Used
LOW BLWER Low Blower
ABS Anti-Lock Brakes
TRN SIG Turn Signals, Cornering Lamps
RADIO, HVAC,
RFA, CLSTR
ALDLRadio; Heating Ventilation, and Air
Conditioning Head; Remote Keyless
Entry, Cluster
HI BLWR High Blower
RH HTD SEAT Passenger’s Heated Seat
STR/WHL
CNTRLAudio Steering Wheel Controls
WPR Windshield Wipers
5-100

Underhood Fuse Block
Some fuses and relays are located in the underhood
fuse block on the passenger’s side of the vehicle in the
engine compartment. SeeEngine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12for more information on location.
Fuses Usage
1 Anti-Lock Brake System
2 Starter Solenoid
3Power Seats, Rear Window
Defogger, Heated Seats
4High Blower, Hazard Flasher,
Stoplamps, Power Mirror, Door
Locks
5Ignition Switch, BTS Shifter Lock
Solenoid, Stoplamps, Anti-Lock
Brake System, Turn Signals,
Cluster, Air Bag, Daytime Running
Lamps Module
6 Cooling Fan
7Retained Accessory Power (RAP),
Remote Keyless Entry, Data Link,
Heating, Ventilation and Air
Conditioning Head, Cluster, Radio,
Cigarette Lighter
8Ignition Switch, Windshield Wipers,
Radio, Steering Wheel Controls,
Body Control Module, Power
Windows, Sunroof; Heating,
Ventilation and Air Conditioning
Controls; Daytime Running Lamps,
Rear Window Defogger Relay
5-101